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Old 09-05-2019, 08:05 PM   #1
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weird thing is theres no battery light or brake light .. everything works perfectly fine and you can drive short distances fine .

If you how ever drive for about an hour or so at night with everything on you can notice the lights dim and then it wont start

alternator checks out fine .. have actually put 3 on and its the same thing

Fuses are good and who ever worked on this thing last bypassed the inline fuses off the battery

What else should i be looking for ..
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:09 PM   #2
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Does the battery hold a charge if you put it on a charger? I'd start by doing a couple of tests... with the engine running you should be getting about 14 volts at the positive battery terminal and at the alternator lead.

Also, are you talking about the fusible links on the positive battery terminal? Those are the first line of defense for your electrical system and are there to protect the ECU from things like being jump started incorrectly. I wonder if in the past something caused them to blow and they simply replaced them with a piece of wire. If the battery and alternator check out alright I suspect something is drawing more current than it should be.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:56 PM   #3
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im getting 12.5 while running .. and yess the links at the positive have been replaced with regular wire

it has power from end to end .. isnt the yellow wire supposed to have 12 volts when its unplugged?
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:00 PM   #4
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Does the battery lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is turned on? Does it go off when the truck is cranked?

You should reinstall the fusible links, they protect your truck from burning to the ground in case of a short circuit.

The alternator has 2 wires that go through the fusible links. Both are white and should go through the black fusible link. One is the output from the alternator to the battery, the other is the sense wire for the voltage regulator on the alternator.
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:35 PM   #5
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no lights out of the normal .. i have checked that .. i did find out that when i take the ground off of the battery, it thens gets 14.5 to the negitive .. once i hook it back up it goes back gto 12.5
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:02 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
Does the battery lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is turned on? Does it go off when the truck is cranked?

This is correct, normal operation. Does it do this?
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:09 AM   #7
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The lights operate normal yes ..
I unplugged the white wire that goes to the alternalte from the battery and it shows 16volts coming off the alternator.. so as you plug it in back to 12.5
Unplug the engine control 15amp fuse, battery light is very dim but the voltage will come up very slow .. turn on lights and ac and back down to 12
5 .. I've replaced the pigtail to the alternator and when its unplugged they both have 12volts.. I added an additional ground to the negative side of the bat and ran to the fender since It didnt have one.. redid the ground coming off the alternator.. replaced battery with a known good one .. checked all fuses .. switched relays around under hood and on the fuse block.. everything seems to be good .. wondering if ecu could possibly be bad ? This is the 3rd alternator put on the vehicle.. and they all check good
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:13 AM   #8
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Neither the 15 amp engine control fuse, nor the ECU are involved with the charging circuit. The alternator uses fuse #11, it’s 10 amps.

The entirety of the charging system consists of 4 wires.

Black wire is the ground wire.

Yellow/red wire comes from fuse #11 through the battery lamp. Based on your description, the yellow/red wire is working correctly.

There are 2 white wires. One of them is the output. It runs to the battery through the black fusible. Or at least it should, when the fusible links are installed.

The other white wire also goes through the same black fusible link. This one tells the alternator how much voltage the battery has/needs. Disconnected from the alternator it should read battery voltage.

If those wires are good, either the belt is slipping or the alternator is bad. If you’re getting remanufactured alternators they are absolutely notorious for failing. Numerous guys on here and on Facebook have gone through several remanufactured alts. A guy I work with went through about 4 before he bought a new alternator and that fixed his problem. The only doubts I have about it being the alternator is the previous owner’s wiring. Beyond that, nothing else is in play.
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:55 AM   #9
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Got it .. ill have to take it off and see if i can get it swapped .. just cant understand why when i take the negative off the negative cable suddenly has the correct voltage .. and when i unplug that big white wire that goes to the alternator it suddenly has 16 volts.. dosnt make alot of sense to me
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:55 PM   #10
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Those are not really relevant “tests” to perform. Electronics behave in unpredictable ways when subjected to abnormal stimuli. Just because there is a reaction to an input doesn’t mean the reaction is either good or bad if that input is not a standard test with a specific expected outcome.
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