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Old 02-17-2022, 12:24 AM   #1
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Default How many amps does a D21 draw on its own? + fog/driving light reccs?

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew how much load our trucks draw just from the stock systems. Obviously 60a isn't a lot to work with so trying to figure out how much headroom I have with the stock alternator. Basically I have a small 80w 8" sub and am looking to upgrade the dinky KMC fog lights that came with the truck.

I've removed the stock amp and am just running all four speakers of my king cab from my Kenwood head unit. Looking at a pair of Hella 550s.

Here's what I'm looking at with so far:
-Kenwood deck max draw 10a
-JVC 8" sub max draw 6.6a
-2x55w lights max draw 9.2a

Just wondering how much room I have to work with. Obviously LED would be a good choice but I haven't seen anything real compelling. Looking for small, square, and simple. Trying to do yellow or amber driving lights to supplement the anemic 9004 headlights without dealing with a conversion. Plus the nominally 55w 80s kmart lights are pretty much just for show even though I rewired them and got them working. I have an 1988 VG SE king cab.
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:02 AM   #2
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Do you have a clamp meter? This is where I would suggest you start. Need to know how many amps are going to the battery, for charging... or being drawn, when stuff is running.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Clam...client=gws-wiz
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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
Do you have a clamp meter? This is where I would suggest you start. Need to know how many amps are going to the battery, for charging... or being drawn, when stuff is running.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Clam...client=gws-wiz
Mine doesn’t have an amp clamp but you’re right that’s the best route. I’ll see if there’s one at work tomorrow. Usually eat lunch with the electrical shop guy anyhow.
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:44 AM   #4
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I wouldn't even bother worrying. I ran 200w of Hellas and 150w of tiny sub with no issue.



Best bang for the buck headlight will be Autopal or hella ecodes with your choice of halogen bulb. Ran 55/60w bulbs in Autopal housings for a long time. Was quite happy with them. Way way way way way way way better than sealed beam.



Unfortunately to do the Autopal you would have to convert to a 86.5, or 90+ front end. IMHO, projector retrofit!!





You will likely never see max draw on your head unit or amp and even then it's only ~25amps. I think you'll be fine.
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Old 02-17-2022, 03:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
I wouldn't even bother worrying. I ran 200w of Hellas and 150w of tiny sub with no issue.



Best bang for the buck headlight will be Autopal or hella ecodes with your choice of halogen bulb. Ran 55/60w bulbs in Autopal housings for a long time. Was quite happy with them. Way way way way way way way better than sealed beam.



Unfortunately to do the Autopal you would have to convert to a 86.5, or 90+ front end. IMHO, projector retrofit!!





You will likely never see max draw on your head unit or amp and even then it's only ~25amps. I think you'll be fine.
Sweet! I just wanted to at least try and do the math just in case. My idea was to do driving or fog lights for now because I have the relay already wired and let the headlight upgrade be its own project for later. The 904s are fine for most cases but I do end up outside the city on country roads a bit and don’t want to zorb everyone by leaving high beams on lol. You happy with the Hellas? Was looking at the 550s.
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Old 02-17-2022, 04:10 AM   #6
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I have hella 500s wired to the battery. Absolutely love them. I kinda want to HID retrofit then though.
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Old 02-17-2022, 04:39 AM   #7
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sick. It looks like the fog lights are a full fresnel but the driving lights are more of a projector type lens? I’m looking for amber and not sure whether better to get the fog lights or just gel the driving lights which only come in white.

Right now I have it set up with a relay to a switch on the dash. Ditching the AIV gave me plenty of room to mount wiring junk lol.
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Old 02-17-2022, 09:28 PM   #8
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The 500 driving beam is an intermediate beam. Some flood and some pencil beam. Good long range light but not like a pencil beam and a good flood but not quite like a flood. Not really meant for high speed but not really for low speed. Good compromise for highway driving.



The fogs will be a close in beam. Basically useless at speed.



You can get something like 3500k or lower bulbs for a yellow beam or one of the sticker thing. I've never tried the sticker. I have 2800k fogs on my car. Deep yellow. Amazing in the fog and snow. Useless otherwise.
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Old 02-19-2022, 01:46 AM   #9
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Well, did a reading with the amp clamp after work yesterday. Only about 10a draw between poz wire, fusible links, and my sub/lighting power. That's at choked idle ~1800rpm with all lights, AC/blower, and stereo turned up to ear splitting level. The meter does say it's for A/C amps (no option for D/C) but am I right to assume amps are just amps?

Driving lights sound like they're what I want, though didn't see many options for warmer temp. Not the end of the world but 3-3.5k is easier on the eyes for me at least.
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Old 02-19-2022, 02:10 AM   #10
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Rev the truck to 2500+ RPM them measure again. I'd be curious to see what changes. Alternators need an excitation voltage to function below ~2500RPM. I want to say once they go above they can go below without the excitition voltage. That will draw some current but no idea how much.



AC amps will measure different due to the sinusoidal wave. The reading will not be accurate.



I've grown to like 4300-4500k. Enough yellow to make it easy to see with but enough white to balance the CRI.
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