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Old 08-05-2018, 08:41 PM   #1
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Default timing marks do not align

In the process of replacing the water pump i pulled the timing belt. It is missing about dozen teeth. Not sure if that has anything to do with anything at this point. But it is a about 6 on one side of the belt and about six 1/3 around the belt.

I can line up one or the other timing marks on the cam shafts but not both at the same time. I can not see the lower timing mark at all on the cam shaft.

I have rotated the engine a few times to try to line them up but it did not work
Do i need to reset the cams or should i try turning the engine until it lines ups?

Is there a crankshaft timing mark for the 92 v6 engine?
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:52 PM   #2
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You should start from scratch and replace the belt with a new one. Get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder, then follow the instructions in this thread http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=38677
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
You should start from scratch and replace the belt with a new one. Get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder,
It is a new belt.

To get the engine to TDC on the Compression stroke do I need to align the the timings marks on the left hand side ( facing the engine / #1 cylinder side) aligned? refer image



Quote:
Originally Posted by then follow the instructions in this thread [URL
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38677[/URL]

I need to replace the seals behind the cam shaft pulley and crank shaft pulley since the compartment that housed the water pump was fouled with oil and i guess one them leaks.




My big concern is that the crank shaft was allowed to move without the cams due to the missing teeth.
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File Type: jpg cam.jpg (23.2 KB, 6 views)

Last edited by markkram; 08-05-2018 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:18 AM   #4
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With the shadow of doubt that exists due to the missing teeth, it’s important to proceed carefully. I would remove the #1 spark plug so I could use a long screwdriver or wooden dowel to touch the piston while rotating it toward TDC so you know for sure that the the piston is where it should be.

Then I would take the valve cover off to look at the rocker arms to make sure the valves are closed. Ordinarily I wouldn’t take off the cover, but the missing teeth are worrisome.

Once you are 100000% certain you’re at TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder you can proceed. Line up the left (passenger) cam gear with the mark on the backing plate. Line the first mark on the belt up and use a zip tie to hold it in place. Then line up the right cam gear and zip tie it. Then do the crank gear.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:50 AM   #5
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That's a pretty good thread that Alabama linked to earlier

Quote:
Originally Posted by markkram View Post
To get the engine to TDC on the Compression stroke do I need to align the the timings marks on the left hand side ( facing the engine / #1 cylinder side) aligned?
Get both sides aligned. There should be marks on both sides, and the timing belt will only fit correctly one way - with the mark on the bottom crankshaft and on each of the cam sprockets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markkram View Post
I need to replace the seals behind the cam shaft pulley and crank shaft pulley since the compartment that housed the water pump was fouled with oil and i guess one them leaks.
Those seals are tricky to get out. I couldn't figure it out at all. I had the benefit of my engine being out of the truck, so I eventually got them out by tapping on the backs of the cams with a drift pin.

But, if everything is loose, you should be able to re-bolt-up the sprockets to use as leverage to pull the cams out. When the cams pop out, the seals come with them.

There may be some sort of seal puller that you could use to get those out, but I didn't go that route.

Good luck with it, and let us know how you did it.
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:46 AM   #6
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A pick or a screwdriver that's bent 90 degrees can sometimes get the seals out, but be careful not to scratch the camshaft surface. If you decide to get a seal puller spend the extra few bucks and a decent one, I have owned 2 of the cheapo ones harbor freight sells and they have slipped and/or broken more times than they've successfully removed a seal. It also helps sometimes to spray around the seal with some PB blaster and let it sit for awhile to loosen things up, especially if it's been in there since forever. You can use a large socket and a hammer to gently tap the new seals into place.

Good luck!
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Old 08-06-2018, 05:50 PM   #7
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my cam seals were as hard as a pretzel. when i removed them, they made the same crunching sound too LOL


if they are really hard, you can hit them with a propane torch for just a split second. that will soften them up a small amount. i wish i had done that. mine crumbled and i spent a half hour getting the broken pieces out of the seal channel.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:38 PM   #8
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this is kinda why they have seal pullers. crunchy, stuck oil seals need a little leverage/persuasion to come out sometimes
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