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Old 10-14-2020, 11:54 PM   #11
NeverNewNissan
 
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Also just threw a code p1165 swirl valve.
Considering all 3 of them have to do with vacuum lines, i believe cleaning them out will help. What should i use to spray them clean. Cant use brake cleaner i take it.
Does anyone know the size of the hose? If its all the same ill just buy a roll and replace them all one by one.
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Old 10-15-2020, 01:13 AM   #12
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Carb cleaner is probably what you want.

Vacuum hose is 5/32-inch.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverNewNissan View Post
It bogs at high RPM no matter the gear.
For example in first if i smash the gas.
I accelerate to 4k and past 4k it starts bogging.
my 97 thrives between 2k and 3k RPMs.

i upshift at 2800-3000 and if it drops to 2000-2100,i downshift.

in 5th gear at 55-60 mph, i am at 2250-2350 or so.

i go back in 4th at 2k, around 50 mph.

i get a consistent 24 MPGs. feels good man.

i revved it to 3300 in 3rd once by accident.
and i still feel bad about it.
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:32 PM   #14
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The white pieces inbetween vacuum lines are they supppsed to not let air past? Im reding my vacuum lines and im wondering. Codes seemed to jave gone except crank sensor. Wheres that at?
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverNewNissan View Post
The white pieces inbetween vacuum lines are they supppsed to not let air past? Im reding my vacuum lines and im wondering. Codes seemed to jave gone except crank sensor. Wheres that at?
The crank sensor means the distributor. It detects where the crank is positioned to determine how to send spark to the plugs.

I think the white pieces between the vacuum lines are only there to hold the 2 ends of the vacuum lines together. They should not block flow, unless I am misunderstanding you. Can you post a picture of those white pieces?
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverNewNissan View Post
I have a 97 d21... ka24e, with a 5 speed.
I have a crank sensor code(im going to replace)
And i have the 2 codes in the title P0400 and P0446
So EGR and evap control.
At high RPM and when I punch the throttle, the engine just stumbles. It feels like the Cat could be clogged, would that cause the codes?
Can removing the EGR system solve both of these problems?
Any other advice, I'll definitely take.
Thank you in advance!
You should start with the service manual trouble diagnosis sheets first. This will rule out the basic functions like if you're not getting power to the solenoid. You can also check the operation of the EGR valve by idling the truck and pushing up on the diaphragm and see if the engine will cut off and die, if the EGR valve is pushed all the way up. Dirt, debris and carbon gets lodged into the EGR valve because it's just open underneath and not covered or protected in any way, shape or form and causes it to malfunction over time. If you remove the EGR valve and clean it out. Your P0400 code might go away. But also replacing the vacuum lines ONE BY ONE is also a good idea due to codes being thrown because of dry, cracked or missing vacuum lines. If you replace the vacuum lines ONE BY ONE. You could run a pipe cleaner through the tube gallery(metal tubes that the hoses connect to) to clear out any potential debris stuck in there. I've read that condensation can build up inside of the tube gallery and cause clogging. So you might want to try that. But gutting the emissions control systems on an OBDII system is really asking for trouble and will cause excessive cussing, throwing of wrenches, banging of head against a wall and the loss of sheer energy in the form of being simply worn out from frustration and the vehicle may not even start or run correctly and could pose a safety hazard while out on the highway.

The EVAP code will require some detective work as well. But start with the service manual first to test the component(s) in that particular circuit. I chased a P1130 code for months. Until I traced out the vacuum lines and I found two that were swapped in the wrong spots. I went so far as to pin out the ECM harness for continuity on either side of the harness and used safety pins to tap the out going voltage to the vacuum on switch that lead to the Swirl Valve Control Valve and continuity checked from point to point to ensure the wiring was not compromised. It's been my experience with my Nissan HB that their electronics and wires are of very good quality. I have only changed out the Crank Position sensor and MAF sensor in my truck and I am the original owner since 02/17/1997. But I used the service manual photos to help trace out the lines and I eventually found those two vacuum lines were in the wrong spots. Swapped them over and BAM! MIL turned off like magic.

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Old 10-16-2020, 10:44 AM   #17
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Good words from Pork-n-Beans.

If you follow the link in my signature to download the service manual for the 1997, it is broken down into sections so you don't have to wait so long to download the entire manual.

The section you want for troubleshooting these codes is the Engine Control, EC, section.

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...20Truck/ec.pdf

After the page loads 100%, you will have the ability to download that manual from the control that it is loaded in.
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Old 10-17-2020, 06:40 PM   #18
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Nice jp2! The great thing about the downloading of a page or pages is that you can write notes on the sheet of paper. That’s what I did to help keep track of what readings were at specific points, which hoses have already been traced out(I line out the hose with a crayon or different colors of markers to keep track) and those pages are portable and can’t break like on a laptop’s screen. I also used clear sheet protectors and Post It notes on the Trouble Diagnosis sheets.

To the OP...be aware that when tracing out the vacuum lines. That they do take twists and turns and you might THINK that you have the correct circuit. But are actually on a different one. So be VERY detailed in your tracing.
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Old 10-18-2020, 01:18 AM   #19
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I watched the video. In general, that engine does NOT sound good.

Is the red thing in the video the valve cover? If so, there are holes in it. Won't that cause a vacuum leak?
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Old 10-18-2020, 02:51 AM   #20
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Pretty sure that red thing in the video was the truck's fender.
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