No crank! only below 35 degrees fahrenheit - Page 3 - Infamous Nissan

nissan_night · 11-22-2020, 12:23 AM

Switched out the starter relay last weekend and have been driving it all week. Fixed the problem.... kind of. Still a delay when I turn the key, but it is only about one quarter to one half second. I think I probably have a multiple-source problem. Failing relays and failing ignition switch contacts possibly. So the relays did not test bad because they were only weak and had not failed completely and the combination of the weak relays and bad contacts at the key caused the no crank situation. makes sense too that holding the key in the start position eventually caused the juice to warm everything up and make contact enough to start. I am planning to replace the ignition switch and will see if that fixes the problem entirely.

Anyone have suggestions for the best source for replacement ignition switch?

nissan_night · 12-05-2020, 03:13 AM

Problem fully solved now. The ignition switch was the last weak link after all. I did not replace it, but got it working again with a couple steps. I noticed that my key was so worn down that it could easily slide out of the tumbler while in the on position. I found my original spare key (it still has nice sharp points) and it fit the tumbler well. I could turn the ignition to the start position with this key and push down to easily start the truck. The key stays in the ignition well and there does not seem to be any excessive wear to the tumbler (had a copy made). Then I pulled the column apart and removed the ignition switch from behind the tumbler with the one little screw. Everything looked good and tight and the switch turned well with good recoil. I sprayed contact cleaner in around the plastic center rotator while turning it repeatedly with a flat screwdriver. Put it back together and it starts like new. Have been testing it all week in the cold with no issues.

Traced the likely origin of the problem back to the engine ground cable being broken off. Forgot to mention that I found the engine ground broken off a while back. I think that while it was off the lack of a good ground (there were a couple small grounds from the block to the body, but nothing direct from the battery) caused the contacts in the switch and the relay to "foul up" and not transmit the amps as well. Replaced the fuel pump relay also and the truck is making the good gremlin noise (pump pressurizing?) again when I shut it off.

89'HBV6 · 12-05-2020, 03:42 AM

Luv to hear this!

K U D O S !

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11-22-2020, 12:23 AM	#21
nissan_night Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Northwest Arkansas Posts: 33 Vehicle: 1995 Pickup V6 4x4 Thanks: 7 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Switched out the starter relay last weekend and have been driving it all week. Fixed the problem.... kind of. Still a delay when I turn the key, but it is only about one quarter to one half second. I think I probably have a multiple-source problem. Failing relays and failing ignition switch contacts possibly. So the relays did not test bad because they were only weak and had not failed completely and the combination of the weak relays and bad contacts at the key caused the no crank situation. makes sense too that holding the key in the start position eventually caused the juice to warm everything up and make contact enough to start. I am planning to replace the ignition switch and will see if that fixes the problem entirely. Anyone have suggestions for the best source for replacement ignition switch?

12-05-2020, 03:13 AM	#22
nissan_night Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Northwest Arkansas Posts: 33 Vehicle: 1995 Pickup V6 4x4 Thanks: 7 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Problem fully solved now. The ignition switch was the last weak link after all. I did not replace it, but got it working again with a couple steps. I noticed that my key was so worn down that it could easily slide out of the tumbler while in the on position. I found my original spare key (it still has nice sharp points) and it fit the tumbler well. I could turn the ignition to the start position with this key and push down to easily start the truck. The key stays in the ignition well and there does not seem to be any excessive wear to the tumbler (had a copy made). Then I pulled the column apart and removed the ignition switch from behind the tumbler with the one little screw. Everything looked good and tight and the switch turned well with good recoil. I sprayed contact cleaner in around the plastic center rotator while turning it repeatedly with a flat screwdriver. Put it back together and it starts like new. Have been testing it all week in the cold with no issues. Traced the likely origin of the problem back to the engine ground cable being broken off. Forgot to mention that I found the engine ground broken off a while back. I think that while it was off the lack of a good ground (there were a couple small grounds from the block to the body, but nothing direct from the battery) caused the contacts in the switch and the relay to "foul up" and not transmit the amps as well. Replaced the fuel pump relay also and the truck is making the good gremlin noise (pump pressurizing?) again when I shut it off.

12-05-2020, 03:42 AM	#23
89'HBV6 Ol'school Geek Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Washington State Posts: 208 Vehicle: 89' D21 KingCab SE V6 5spd 2WD - 87' D21 KingCab SE V6 5spd 2WD Thanks: 237 Thanked 59 Times in 50 Posts	Luv to hear this! K U D O S !