How to: Retrofitting A/C

[jp2code]

Couple of questions.

1. First, after swapping to the VG33e and the VG33e's compressor, my engine does not idle up when the AC is turned on.
   
   Is the connection in this picture the only electrical indicator that the ECU has that the AC is turned on?
   
   
   
   That one is connected on mine, and it does turn the AC on.
   
   The engine speed, however, does not increase to accommodate the additional AC load.
   .
   .
2. Second, whenever I go down the road, I can feel a draft coming from the passenger's side.
   
   The last time I had a passenger in the truck, I had them unbuckle and crawl around on the floorboard to find this hole (it only manifests itself when going over 55 MPH).
   
   It turned out this flow of air is coming from the hole I created whenever I removed this plug for the drain hose:
   
   
   
   What is everyone else using to plug up this hole?

[cadillacdude1975]

is that gasket present under the hood?

[jp2code]

No, I took that off when running the AC lines shown in the background.

I kept it for a few months, then tossed it when I realized there was no use for it.

Is that what you used to seal up the condensation drain hose? My hose goes through a separate hole.

[PMoney]

In the second picture you posted JP, it looks like you're pointing to the high side/evap inlet tube hole. You'll need that gasket piece Caddy is referring to (not the piece he's holding, but the piece the tubes go through that's bolted to the firewall) if that's what you need to seal. I wanna say my drain tube has a grommet so it's a relatively tight fit. If there's no grommet then you can always go the RTV route if you really wanted to, I'd probably look for a grommet first though. You may wanna have someone else drive so you can crawl around to verify as well since you installed the system too. Hell, I'd take a look for ya if we were closer.

I've got no clue on your idle not kicking up when turning your AC on though. Sorry man.

[NoSoHardbody]

Question about the compressor. It obviously looks used, was it tested first? Or did you just take a chance on it? I really don't want to pay for a brand new one so if there's a way to test it out before taking it out at the junk yard I need to know. Thanks in advance

[Cusser]

Originally Posted by NoSoHardbody

Question about the compressor. It obviously looks used, was it tested first? Or did you just take a chance on it? I really don't want to pay for a brand new one so if there's a way to test it out before taking it out at the junk yard I need to know. Thanks in advance

Besides turning it over with a wrench and feeling for seizure/too much or too little resistance, and a check with a 12 volt battery to ascertain that the electric/magnetic clutch is working, not much can be checked. Obviously look for oil residue at front seal.

[ahardb0dy]

When buying a used compressor make sure there is pressure on the output hole when spinning the pulley, same with the input, it should feel like it's sucking your finger in. You can take the whole compressor apart, drain any old oil, clean it than before installing make sure to add the proper amount of the proper oil.

[Cusser]

Originally Posted by ahardb0dy

You can take the whole compressor apart, drain any old oil, clean it than before installing make sure to add the proper amount of the proper oil.

Well, I've only installed a used compressor ONCE, and it worked fine (1984 Jeep Cherokee). I cannot recommend taking a used compressor apart though, think leak chances would be greatly increased unless one had all gaskets and was experienced.

The oil can be drained without taking compressor apart though; just turn compressor so ports are on bottom, and turn the compressor center by hand or with a wrench. Then add refrigeration oil turn center to flush the compressor, drain, then add the correct amount of refrigeration oil and turn center part 10 times by hand or with wrench once installed on the vehicle.