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Old 12-24-2017, 05:09 PM   #11
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Nope. You should be just fine with the valve cover off.
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Old 12-24-2017, 05:33 PM   #12
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No, I meant removing the upper cam gear with the chain, to take tension off the cam.
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Old 12-24-2017, 05:42 PM   #13
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That's a good point. I'd think you'd be OK leaving it as is but I actually don't know, sorry. The rocker arm shafts and the cam bearings are held in by the same bolts so maybe there's something to that. I do know from putting my head back on that they are torqued to 30ft/lb, I did mine in 2 or 3 stages.
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Old 12-24-2017, 09:43 PM   #14
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There isn't alot of tension on the chain. I swapped my cam and never had any issue with the tension. I used a coat hanger to keep tension on the cam gear once I removed it from the cam. You shouldn't need to remove the cam, so just leave the cam caps in place and you'll be fine.
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:14 PM   #15
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I am about to attempt replacing these as well, although not on a Nissan. It's going to be on an old school pushrod engine and I might pull the heads first. Still, I'd be happy to post some pictures up if it would help. Compressing the springs and removing the keepers should be the same for pretty much any engine.
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
Compressing the springs and removing the keepers should be the same for pretty much any engine.
We'd think so, but it does vary somewhat. E.g., my trusty, big Craftsman valve spring ("C") compressor doesn't fit on some heads (typically smaller ones) due to recessed spring wells, etc. Bought a couple of others, e.g., for motorcycles, and have made various adapters through the decades.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:44 PM   #17
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dont use the air method. its scary as fuck.

take some thin nylon rope, not string, and feed it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole with the piston a little ways down the stroke. then rotate the motor over slowly until you can see the string ball coming up. when it "bottoms out" and puts pressure on the valves you are set to go. the valves should rest nicely on the rope.

I also, when i can reach it, put a ziptie around the stem wile the spring is still in place, to help keep it from slipping into the motor.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
I am about to attempt replacing these as well, although not on a Nissan. It's going to be on an old school pushrod engine and I might pull the heads first. Still, I'd be happy to post some pictures up if it would help. Compressing the springs and removing the keepers should be the same for pretty much any engine.



its not the same. it depends on how deeply set the valves are. on a honad v-tec head they are like 3feet down. on a single cam nissan they are right in your face. on your push rod motor, theres a shitload of side to side clearance making it even easier. you also can oull the heads with like 5 bolts and no timing woes.

https://www.amazon.com/Valve-Spring-...ing+compressor

that tool has proven really universal for me. ive used other styles of compressor that ive had to grind down the sides or do something to. this one, was just bolts and go.
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:27 PM   #19
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Was at the junkyard today and they had a 95 with the KA24E so I took the top of the engine apart, just to look, removed the rocker arms and out of all the rockers only 1 on the exhaust side had any movement in the lifter.
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Old 12-30-2017, 01:14 AM   #20
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NICE. good way to learn on something thats busted up.

btw, that comment about cam bearings...no such thing on anything but an american motor. no one uses those. they are for "overhead valves" from the 1860's pushrod designs.
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