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Old 08-24-2017, 04:24 PM   #81
jmvar
 
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Sorry double post

Last edited by jmvar; 08-24-2017 at 04:29 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 08-24-2017, 05:33 PM   #82
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Yes I just use the crank bolt to press the pulley back on. Yes I replace the oil pump gasket. No I don't replace the O-ring on the distributor. I've never had one leak there.
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Old 12-02-2017, 04:39 PM   #83
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Alabama, I did the timing chain before I put the engine in the truck but I did not put the dizzy and oil pump back on right away because it was a slow project over time getting the truck up and running so I thought I had the dizzy shaft in properly and everything line up but it pings like a mother, runs hotter than it should, and lacks power. I have retarded it clear to the stops, but it keeps failing emissions due to the NOX being too high. I am certain the problem is the dizzy shaft is off by a tooth or several tooth. I love the pictures in this post, but I am uncertain on how to make sure it is at TDC on the compression stroke. Do I need to take the valve cover off to make sure the observe the position of the rocker arms to see if they are in the same position for cylinder 1, meaning the valves are both closed? I am assuming I line it up on the timing marks like you showed, and if I have it on TDC and it happens to be on the compression stroke then the dizzy rotor will be pointing down, 180 degrees off from the picture, right? That being said, if it is pointing up (but off to one side of the other slightly) and the timing marks are lined up, then I would just need to pull the dizzy and oil pump and adjust the dizzy shaft to that everything lines up as pictured, correct? I am so confused and frustrated, as this is the last thing I need to do to get the truck on the road. Please advise or point me to the right post on the forum as I have been searching without luck, and I am sure this has probably already been covered.

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CoolasCheese in AZ
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Old 12-02-2017, 05:33 PM   #84
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Remove the #1 spark plug. Rotating the engine by hand, place your thumb over the spark plug hole. When it is on the compression stroke you will feel the compression trying to blow past your thumb. Once you know you're on the compression stroke, get the #1 piston on TDC.

Then check the position of the rotor. It should be pointed to the #1 spark plug wire. If your truck is a 93 or 94 like your profile lists, your #1 spark plug wire will be located at about the 4 o'clock position. My truck was a 97. The 96-97 hardbody has a different distributor so the #1 plug wire is located at the 1 o'clock position.

One thing you did not mention was verifying where it's firing by using a timing light. This is an absolutely VITAL step. The timing should be set to 10 degrees btdc.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:09 PM   #85
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The frame, cab, front clip are from a 1993, but the entire 4 cylinder drivetrain and interior are from a 1994 XE, which I just finished the dash swap on last week.

I tried correcting the timing initially today, but admittedly I was not sure how to confirm it was on the compression stroke. I figured that since the timing marks were lined up and the rotor was pointing almost to where it was supposed to be and I was fairly certain I had previously installed the new timing chain and gears properly, so I move ahead. I removed the distributor and clearly it was not where is should be, so I removed the oil pump and distributor shaft and lined up the mark on the oil pump with the mark on the shaft, per the field service manual and put it back in. I went back up top and observed that the backwards D on the dizzy shaft looked like it should so I put it all back together, but it would not start.

Seeing your reply here (after my first attempt) I took another run at it, after confirming it was at TDC on the compression stroke using my finger on the spark plug hole while my son turned the crank. I removed the distributor and saw that the D on the dizzy shaft was forward instead of backwards(180 degrees off), so I removed the oil pump and shaft, lined up the mark on the oil pump and the mark on the shaft again, but once I put everything back together, it still would not start...

I have a sinking feeling that I need to tear into it and check the timing chain to make sure I have all of that lined up properly, but I so do not want to because I have it sealed up nice and I just know it will start leaking oil as soon as I mess with it.

I am so done with this thing for a few days. I am really hating the truck at the moment and don't even want to look at it...
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:29 PM   #86
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The D on the end of the shaft should point to the front of the truck when viewing it from the driver side fender. It should be backward from the way the letter D should be written.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:49 PM   #87
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Yeah that is what I thought. When I tried doing it the second time, after confirming it was at TDC on the compression stroke, and i lined up the dizzy shaft with the mark on the oil pump, the backwards D was toward the front like it should be but tilted too much to the side, so I suspect I am off a tooth on the timing chain.

I think i need to pull the timing cover off and verify I put everything together properly when I replaced the timing chain and gears after removing the engine from the other truck before putting it in this truck. UGH. That is a task for another day.

Thanks for the assist.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:09 PM   #88
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redid mine when the guide broke and I had to replace it and the cover. I only use the truck infrequently. When I first start it, it rattles like crazy, but after it runs a couple seconds it quiets down. If I stop it and start it within a day, not rattle. Is it just that the chain is dry, or is there something I missed in the replacement.
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Old 02-06-2018, 06:16 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abujohn View Post
redid mine when the guide broke and I had to replace it and the cover. I only use the truck infrequently. When I first start it, it rattles like crazy, but after it runs a couple seconds it quiets down. If I stop it and start it within a day, not rattle. Is it just that the chain is dry, or is there something I missed in the replacement.
I think they just do that unless you buy the expensive OEM timing chain kit. I replaced my chain and guides about 10k miles ago and it still does it.
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