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Old 10-13-2012, 02:13 AM   #21
1_low_fronty
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in the first pic with the 2wd and 4wd leave springs.the center pins were off.what if you just spun the pack half around wouldnt they line up then? just make the front the back.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:03 AM   #22
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That's a good question.

I went and measured the 4WD main leaf sitting out back.

With cursory measurement and estimation, it looks like flipping the 4WD main leaf front-to-back would place the center pin 1-3/4" further back than the 2WD main leaf is (the pins are forward-biased on either leaf pack).

You have approximately 4" of driveshaft yolk (estimating off a 240SX guibo yolk I have), which would then only leave 2-1/4" of splines left to stay engaged in the transmission. Less probably, because the yolk wouldn't likely be stuffed that deep to begin with. The yolk might fall out - although at a lowered ride height, it would only fall out at full bump, not droop, so maybe it won't be an issue....?

The rear wheel is already sitting noticeably rearward with the de-arced leafs. Another 1-3/4" further back would look even worse.

Another issue is the front and rear leaf eyes and their bushings are different. Not impossible to make it work, but likely not worth the effort.

You're welcome to try it out and post your results here.

With the amount of time I spent on this, I could have done a four-link and coilovers, and had better results.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:58 PM   #23
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yea i dont think it is worth the effort either i just figured you would be able to flip and go.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:33 AM   #24
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Forgive the ignorance, but with all the effort you have done couldn't you have fabbed up a stock pathfinder 4-link with the stock rear coil springs? It's awesome what you've done with all the swapping of leaf springs, but you're still trying to figure out what setup you like. It's been a couple years of trying to figure it out.

I have a shop in town called Standen's that can probably fab you up some new leaf springs for a 1 ton. They do a lot of custom leaf spring work, and they're the guys that I'm going to go to to shorten my driveshaft on my h233b leaf spring axle.

Again, not trying to be rude!
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:53 AM   #25
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There are many ways to solve the problem.

Mine involves me spending three thousand dollars of my labour to save a hundred bucks on a part I could have found on sale for twenty. That's just how I roll.

Plus - it's all about "skill acquisition." You could "pay the man," but then "the man" gets better at what he's already good at, and I don't learn nothing.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:03 AM   #26
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I can totally understand that. That's how you learn. I do appreciate the time you've spent on your setup, it does make it a lot easier for guys who want static drops.

One thing I don't understand is how some guys run with reversed leaf springs. Where they are arc'd up instead of down like the stock setup. Seems sooo sketch to me.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:17 AM   #27
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The flipped spring eye is what scares me - instead of the truck resting on the main leaf with the eyes holding it in place, the truck is resting solely on the eyes. S-c-a-r-y.

Documenting these tests and experiments is what contributes to this site, and offers people some first-hand experience (and hopefully wisdom) so people don't have to make the same mistakes over and over.

My original intent was to find a quick and easy de-arced leaf solution.

There isn't one.

And that is what dragged me to here.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:43 AM   #28
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i wonder what the 2wd mains and either a 2wd or 4wd overload will be stiff yet low?
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:50 PM   #29
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I'm not sure what you are asking - can be a bit more detailed in your idea?

Are you saying JUST a main leaf and JUST an overload?
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:47 AM   #30
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Skimnny G u are the type of guy i like on this site. u try different setups learn what works and what doesent work. u have shown here what alot of us have thought of and in theory could work but you have saved us alot of trial and error and helped us to decide what we whant , what works and what doesnet work. like u said yes it too lots of time and effort and labour but YOU ( and us reading) have learnt that there isint an easy what to lower your truck ,have a good ride and still be able to load a truck like a std set up whould alow us. there is no best of both worlds . if u lower your truack u sacrifice some ride quality and load capacity (depending on wich way u do it) the way i see it is static drops depends on what u are after . if u want a lowerd truck that rides soft u sacrifice load capacity. if u want load capacity u sacrifice ride quality . so there is no real best of everything.
I have a truck long bed v6 lowerd 120 mil with a combination of 70 mil blocks and pulled one leaf,flipped overload and clamed front ends ofall leafs together. gives a stiff as hell hard ride but i can still load when i need to. the reason its what i was ok with cause i use it to drift and raerly drive on publick roads(loacked diff) . this is my play toy not my daily. so i could go this route and if i neet to laod crap i know it can handell the load. the problem is with a load on public roads my diff will( and has) broken. BUT thats ok for me its what is ok for me. alot of guys will think its madeness to have a setup like that but when im at the track i have the most fun with my cloths on lol. truck looks lik crap but i dont care its my plaything. so heres what its all about what work and doesnt work for U . Skinny has made things easier for us to know what setups give what results what he is willing to live with and what doesnt.
thanks for this Skinyg
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