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Old 03-17-2019, 06:34 PM   #1
GaBluD214X4
 
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Default Grover Crank No Start

So Grover is sick.

Long post but when I ask for help I attempt to be complete with what has been done already.

Last few times I drove it the truck would buck and shudder like it was cutting out mid throttle. Ordered fuel filter since it was one of the few things since my purchase of the truck I did not replace. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

After installation no change. Only drive a few miles for work but still felt lucky to get the truck back home.

Life with multiple cars can (sometimes) be a blessing. So I just drove one of the others.

Last week I go out and the truck will not start. Turns over fine. But never fires off. Had (based on some searching) thought maybe a MAF. Went by WalMart and got a CRC dual can cleaning set (https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-MAF-T...1-Kit/36755294).

Clean the MAF and sprayed the crap out of the throttle body. Waited about and hour put everything back together. No change in condition.

Worried that the MAF was gone or I sprayed the crap outta everything over-zealously order another MAF (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Two days later tossed it on... nothing. Pulled the fuel line to check fuel was flowing. Could even with hearing the fuel pump power up and primp and even had performed the poor man's priming by giving the key three turns on and back off before starting. Pumping fuel well. The three poor man's prime turns would fill the bottom of a one-gallon bucket.

Check for spark on a spark plug. Had spark. Pulled th plugs. #1 looked like CRAP. #2 look better but not good. #3 & #4 look OK for this truck.

Cleaned them all no change. Pulled out the FSM.

Have checked DIAG Codes.
14 - Vechicle Speed Sensor - yep, still trying to figure out the speedo whatever.
35 - EGR Temp Sensor - Have the wiring harness connector. Have no sensor to plug it into.
41 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Circuit - this could be due to plugging the damn connector for the sensor into the pigtail for the EGR Temp sensor once. Have used the FSM checks and the sensor resistance was 2.6 which is within FSM 2.1 - 2.9 range.

Have also checked the IACV-ACC Valve. Worried my over cleaning might have damaged it. It's resistance was 9.8 ohms.

Used 12V to make the IACV-FICD Solenoid Valve click.

Disconnected power and checked the ECM. Nothing.
Sorta question why the FSM has you do that unless you suspect something but then I figured it was a way to check for a major short circuit of the wiring harness.

During this process I tossed the brand new battery from one of the other vehicles as the continued cranking was not doing the battery any good.

Really not sure where to go. The FSM is pushing me towards testing the Camshaft Position Sensor in the distributor (FUN...not) and doing a Fuel Injector test as well if I am jumping that far.

After that it's looks like an ECM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:53 PM   #2
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You might try unhooking the battery overnight to let the ECU reset itself, then go from there. That way any codes you get will be brand new. I would start by looking at the wiring diagram, perhaps the air intake and EGR temperature sensors share a common source for their reference voltage. I've got the diagrams lying around somewhere, let me know if you need them. However, neither of those two sensors should prevent it from starting.
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:30 PM   #3
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Follow Up:
Still no start.

Pulled distributor.

Retested spark at every plug. All getting spark. IMHO some smoother than others but all are getting spark.

The fuel injectors also and they are "click click" as stated in the FSM but you cannot feel shit.

Even waited to the evening ( cause my street has become an awful cut through -- thank Waze ..NOT ) so I could maybe hear/feel better but you can hear but I never felt a thing.

Not enthusiastic about having to have this thing taken anywhere. Can feel the "you need and new distributor / ECM" since they are pricey as $hit!

Disconnected the battery and we shall see if what happens next. Back to the FSM for other "clues".
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:54 PM   #4
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Follow-Up:
When you forget that you THINK that are smart.

Pulled out the Snap-On MT-2500 that I kept and the Nissan bought cartridges and interface adapter for the under dash diag connector.

Most of what I found within it was pretty much from the FSM BUT it did let me clear the codes.

Still no start.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:53 AM   #5
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If you are getting spark then it's most likely fuel issue. This is probably a really stupid question to be asking but your fuel pump is working, correct? The next thing I would do is see if the ECU is commanding the fuel injectors to fire. The injectors should be getting 12V anytime the key is on (white wire) and the ECU fires them by grounding them. If they are getting power the next thing I would do is check the signal from the ECU. Use a test light with one end hooked to the positive battery terminal and the other end to the fuel injector ground pin on the wiring connector. A paper clip might be handy for getting inside the connector. Next, crank engine over. The test light should flash if the ECU is commanding the fuel injector on.
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:30 AM   #6
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Listening for the Fuel Pump when you turn on the key is a good way to make sure the fuel pump is still A-OK.

Could your Ignition Timing be way off?

Also, you might want to make sure the fusible links are still good. The injectors get their power straight from the fusible links.

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35558

You can also clear the codes by going to Mode 4 or Mode 5 and turning the key off.

After you cleared the codes, what codes came back?
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
If you are getting spark then it's most likely fuel issue. This is probably a really stupid question to be asking but your fuel pump is working, correct? The next thing I would do is see if the ECU is commanding the fuel injectors to fire. The injectors should be getting 12V anytime the key is on (white wire) and the ECU fires them by grounding them. If they are getting power the next thing I would do is check the signal from the ECU. Use a test light with one end hooked to the positive battery terminal and the other end to the fuel injector ground pin on the wiring connector. A paper clip might be handy for getting inside the connector. Next, crank engine over. The test light should flash if the ECU is commanding the fuel injector on.
The fuel pump is easy to hear and when doing my "poor man's prime" (turning the ignition on three times before starting) just those three turns of the key will cover the bottom of a one gallon bucket with fuel easily. Is it full pressure? Have not checked actual pressure being delivered.

Next check will be the test light on the fuel injectors. This might not take place until tomorrow. Work til 8:30pm tonight.
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Listening for the Fuel Pump when you turn on the key is a good way to make sure the fuel pump is still A-OK.

Could your Ignition Timing be way off?

Also, you might want to make sure the fusible links are still good. The injectors get their power straight from the fusible links.

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35558

You can also clear the codes by going to Mode 4 or Mode 5 and turning the key off.

After you cleared the codes, what codes came back?
Can clearly hear the fuel pump as soon as KOEO. I am 100% OCD about KOEO until I hear that pump prime. Blame all my Jeeps on that habit.

Timing Way Off? I guess anything is possible but this thing drove to where it was parked. Could it jump time with brand new chain guides ( no rattle ) but and older chain? Again, I guess possible.

Have no re-checked the codes.

Was happy the MT-2500 worked. Have found basically nothing about using this scanner on these trucks. If it also reads codes it will be way worth what I paid for the cartridges and connector to keep from having to pull out the passenger seat.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:43 AM   #9
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This exact bullshit problem is why I ripped every piece of pollution control and fuel injection off my truck and carbureted the damn thing.
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaBluD214X4 View Post
Timing Way Off? I guess anything is possible but this thing drove to where it was parked. Could it jump time with brand new chain guides ( no rattle ) but and older chain? Again, I guess possible.
I was thinking that perhaps the bolt on the distributor came loose and the distributor rotated, but I suppose the chain could jump also, if it is pretty loose.

loose? lose? I never know which one to use.
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