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Old 11-20-2015, 08:19 AM   #21
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good to hear
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:00 PM   #22
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So, after some diagnosing, I may not get the replacement just yet....so, if you will, I will explain the situation that happened to me in detail. Some of this may be repetitive but I believe still bears mentioning.

So, I was on the way home Wednesday night. I made a couple of stops on the way home. Prior testing of the battery showed 12.5 volts. I should also mention it is an Optima brand battery, yellow top, deep cycle.

I ran that day, and normally do, my HID headlights, factory fog lights, radio, 500W amplifier, exterior electrical fan cooling fan upgrade, and interior fan (A/C was not on though).

Prior testing after installation shows that at idle, alternator/charging system run at 14.5 to 14.7 volts, as it should at an idle. With all the above mentioned accessories on, charging system runs between 12.1 and 12.7 volts. It does not take but a couple hundred RPM to get it back to 14 volts.

So on the way home, I made some quick stops where I actually shut the engine off completely. Cooling fan controller has a delay timer that I have set to run the electric fan for 1 minute after turning the engine off. I made my way to Sam's to pick up some lunch meat, but before, I sat in the parking lot for about 45 min talking to a guy that made me some custom .75 cu. ft. boxes for my sundown 8s. I drove off and parked it. Went into Sam's, came out, and everything was normal.

I did not monitor any of my systems via the torque app because I reckoned everything was OK. So after about 25 miles of straight driving, all of a sudden my HIDs drop out. My fogs were still running, so for about 3 more miles I ran off them, and my conventional headlights on the second (high beam) were running, but really dim.

So after I made it the couple of miles to pull over, I test the battery and charging system and monitor via the torque app. The entire rest of the way home, the charging system run as low as 7.9v and as high as 9.4. (At 7.9, the vehicle would run as idle but everything else was unresponsive, could not accelerate at all. At 9.4 vehicle would drive and work a little better but everything was dim. Certain accessories would shut down by themselves.)

I made it home after the tow and parked it for a day. So, the next day, I tested the battery. It showed 11.5 v. I tried to crank the truck and still dead. Has volts but no amps. I jumped it off and backed it up and was getting it ready to take the new alternator off.

I made contact with the company and lowlife about some things. I went back out, and actually got the truck to turn over on its own power, even though when I cranked it off the jump, it ran less than 10 min. During that 10 min, at idle with nothing on, charging system was 12.5...12.4....12.3....12.2....it was slowly draining so I knew the alt wasn't working.

Later that day, I revisited it. Cranked it up and watched it again.....then I remembered, freaking take the negative terminal off the battery and get a true test of the alternator). When I did that, the voltage immediately jumped to 14.5 volts and it sounded like the alternator turned on. So, Im all like what the hell.......
...(I have been told since then to never do that, as it may fry the ECU).

I put the terminal back on, 12.5, take it off, 14.5.....Something has to be wrong with the battery?

So I pull it and put it on a charger for a couple of hours. These optima batteries don't take a traditional charge where you just hook it up. The have to be wired in series with another traditional charged battery, then you hook up the charger to the optima.

Took it off, put it back in, cleaned up some shit (wire routing) and the terminals, I changed them out. Wired everything back in, and now with everything terminated properly, the charging system reads 14.5 volts like it should.

I took it out for about 45 min today and seemed to be OK. I have been heavily monitoring the entire system and see no faults for now.

Other than load testing the battery, what the hell else could have caused it you think?
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:01 PM   #23
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So I will report to MG Monday and see if I need a new one shipped out. All I can say for now is I will get the battery tested.
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:58 AM   #24
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I remember when I had my Wrangler alternator I had a problem with the alt. not putting out or something and I had to run a wire from the external regulator straight to the positive. it was the sense wire that tells the alt. when to turn on. Wrangler told me it would fix the problem and it did.

No idea on your issue, see what the company says.
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:56 AM   #25
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So just to get the "too long; didn't read" version, you're thinking the oddness of the Optima battery is what's causing the alternator to not work?
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
I remember when I had my Wrangler alternator I had a problem with the alt. not putting out or something and I had to run a wire from the external regulator straight to the positive. it was the sense wire that tells the alt. when to turn on. Wrangler told me it would fix the problem and it did.

No idea on your issue, see what the company says.
This was the first thing I did when I performed the big three upgrade. Besides wasn't enough room to fit another terminal on the post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGreyBeast View Post
So just to get the "too long; didn't read" version, you're thinking the oddness of the Optima battery is what's causing the alternator to not work?
I inquired about that with the manufacturer the other day. Says it has no bearing.

This morning, I had to turn around at mile 15 and bring it back home. I had already made one short trip Saturday and was seemingly acting fine.

Was monitoring voltage via torque app in real time. Everything was fine, running at 14.5, then all of a sudden, it dropped to 11.5. All I was running accessory wise was headlights, electric cooling fan, and cabin fan for heater. There was no reason for the deviation.

Pulled over and tested with fluke. 11.3...11.2 at that time. Pulled terminals off battery, voltage drop to 8.9. Its the alternator. It was performing a parasitic draw off the battery in compensation for the low voltage output.

That's the only thing I can come up with.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:14 PM   #27
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you could pull the alternator and take it to a auto parts store and have it tested locally
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Old 12-07-2015, 01:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
you could pull the alternator and take it to a auto parts store and have it tested locally
I did that, and they printed out a slip I included with the failed part. The printout said failed. I there was three parts to the test. I think it failed the diode and regulator but passed the rectifier. Something like that.

Anyway I am on week two of the newest replacement and everything seems to be going well.
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Old 12-07-2015, 04:53 PM   #29
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good deal !
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:16 PM   #30
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A month later how's it doing?
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