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Old 04-12-2016, 02:08 PM   #11041
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Default 1988 hb sr20det

Just got mine on the road 3 weeks ago. Rebuilt the t25 turbo at my brothers shop. Ready to rock
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Old 04-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #11042
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replaced my trans with a remanufactured one I got on ebay. Everything went as expected. Not a job i'd like to do by myself again, but not everyone's home when you need them. On the bright side I have more than just 4th gear now!!
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:43 PM   #11043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caballero View Post
replaced my trans with a remanufactured one I got on ebay. Everything went as expected. Not a job i'd like to do by myself again, but not everyone's home when you need them. On the bright side I have more than just 4th gear now!!
Any trickier than replacing a clutch? Does a transmission jack help?
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:38 PM   #11044
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Default Coolant Bypass Hose

So I noticed a coolant leak on my truck about a week ago and immediately tried to find the next best time I'd have to check it out. I've been topping off the reservoir before driving it throughout the past seven days, taking note as to when it leaks coolant and when it doesn't. I never had any temperature issues or rough idling or anything major so I didn't think it was anything like head gasket. Today when I was changing my oil, I took a radiator pressure pump and pushed it to 12psi and without a doubt it started spewing from the bypass hose. Found a tiny nick in it, thank goodness. Changed it with the oil filter off. It was a royal pain in the neck but the oil change, a run to napa, physically replacing the hose and servicing the oil and coolant only took me 2.5hours, which is a win in my opinion. Glad I only spent $30 on the hose, coolant, and some new hose clamps rather than I don't even want to know how much I would've spent having someone else replace it for me. All in all it was a solid evolution. Learn more about this truck every day.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:45 PM   #11045
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It's good to replace all the hoses if you haven't already. I made the mistake of just replacing uppers and lowers, then another one started leaking. Once you drain ththe coolant it's easy to replace all the hoses, and it's quick to do. The time consuming part is disposing of the coolant, and going through rounds of filling up w water for a flush.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:00 AM   #11046
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Ok. . .so lets talk torsion bars (mine are sway-away replacements that are 20 to 30 percent stiffer)

To start with the C clips are not on the torsion bars, there is no cap on the brake fluid, there are no pads in the calipers and the bleed valves are open. . .I do bad things kids don't do this.

But I wanted to see how close the alignment was and put the tires on and back up and pulled forward and well. . .you can see the problem.



and



and



The alignment looks very close. . .but the tires are all in the fender well.




Since I replaced the lower control arms AND the torsion bars. . . I had ZERO references for spline placement. I never found a "So you are starting from scratch and building your suspension with all new parts" instructions.

So I sat and thought. And here was my solution.

Remove the rear adjuster on the torsion bar. Remove sway bar links (both sides), loosen strut rod bolt very loose, take the nut off the shock, and take the four bolts out of the upper ball joint and let the lower control arm drop all it can. In THAT position, install the adjuster cocked down so I had one finger to the cup of the moon edge at the lowest spot which was about the most extreme angle I was willing to try and tighten the adjuster bolt. Insert bolt and bring the nut down to hand tight, then re-assymble everything (less sway bar). Then I tightened the adjuster to best guess, sat the truck down, evaluated and repeated until I had the drivers side right where I wanted it.



Now I could take a measurement of the length of adjust rod from end to lock nut.

I then repeated the EXACT process on the passenger side and brought that adjustment to the same.

The results? See for yourself.



and



and



Ride height is right where I want it, front tires appear to be VERY close on alignment with the eyeball with no toe in or toe out apparent. My alignment shop is 1 mile down the street. I think I got her close enough for that trip.

Brake pads should be in tomorrow, need to install the C clips on the torsion adjusters, install the brakes, bleed the lines, and schedule me a time for the shop to align and complete this job.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:07 AM   #11047
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Too bad all those posts of yours weren't in a build thread.

In 2 months, no one will ever find your useful information here.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:12 AM   #11048
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AFTER I get this on the road, with some miles and KNOW I got it right, I have all the pictures and if I have a slow night I could do a build thread and pass on some lessons learned. Now that you mention it, I will make a point to do that. I owe this forum for a TON of useful knowledge and want to give back in return for all that helped me. I will see what I can work up and maybe have a few folks peer review it.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:25 AM   #11049
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So far, you only have 53 posts.

It would be easy at this point to look up all of your old posts, edit the ones that are about the truck work (so you can copy the text), and paste that text into a new thread.

Or, after you get all of your notes finished up and ready to go, I or another moderator could move all of your posts about this along with the related replies into a build thread.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:54 AM   #11050
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Yeah we can take all his posts and make 1 thread out of them, he's got some good pics and stuff. This thread is basically like our Facebook feed lol
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