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Old 02-14-2018, 02:10 PM   #1
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Default 1993 nissan hardbody 4x4 clutch replacement

alright guys i got all the oil ready and i ordered a clutch last night and i need a pretty good guide of how to do this. i know the 4x4 clutch is alot harder to do than the 2wd. i did search around and even found a few but they didnt have that good of detail. i would really appreciate.
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:29 PM   #2
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You will have to remove both the trans and torsion bar cross members, you will need to lift and support the vehicle for this. Also inspect the surface condition on the fly wheel and teeth. This is a very difficult job especially if you don’t have a transmission jack. I took my driver door off and used an engine hoist to raise and lower my trans.
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:19 AM   #3
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I don't know of any write-ups on changing the clutch, the Haynes Manual probably has some detailed instructions.

Hit everything with PB Blaster a couple times before you start. Drain the transmission fluid, it's a good time to replace it anyway. I used a Harbor Freight tranny jack when I changed out my transmission, I have the V6. Mark the torsion bars and your drive-shafts before you take them apart so you can re-assemble them the same way they were. Bag and tag your parts/fasteners so you don't have to sort them out later.

I priced used flywheels and was going to have one resurfaced but looked on Rock Auto and a new one was pretty cheap, so that's what I used. If it's in the budget, replace the clutch slave, master cylinder and rubber line. Also, replace the rear-main seal on the engine while you're in there.

I didn't think it was that bad of a job but the transmission was HEAVY. That said, the next clutch job will be done by a shop because I'm getting too old for this type of thing, LOL

Good luck,

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Old 02-15-2018, 02:46 AM   #4
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Is clearance with the oil pan and front differential going to be an issue like it is on the v6 models? I almost wonder if it would be faster to get a cherry picker and pull the engine out instead.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:07 AM   #5
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To pull the motor on the v6 4wd you will have to pull the front diff. Its not too bad to get in and out once you've done it as much as I have. You have to tip the nose up and over the front cross member under the motor then roll the back into place. Opposite of how it comes out. Its a PITA. And heavy. Hurts when it lands on you. It will scrape the oil pan going in and out.

I was going to say the motor is the other way. Stupid easy to get to with the motor out of the truck. Good time to do everything and anything you might need to. Easiest time to do plugs and wire too. Air tools are a god send.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:52 AM   #6
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Good luck. I am too old to go pulling transmissions lol

At this point, I will do darn near anything to save a buck or two, but some things I just do not want to tackle. If i had a paved flat driveway it would help. Gravel sucks.
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardbody92 View Post
You will have to remove both the trans and torsion bar cross members, you will need to lift and support the vehicle for this. Also inspect the surface condition on the fly wheel and teeth. This is a very difficult job especially if you don’t have a transmission jack. I took my driver door off and used an engine hoist to raise and lower my trans.
Why did you remove the driver's side door?
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:14 PM   #8
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ok guys i appreciate it and im gonna get started on it sometime next week
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:52 PM   #9
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Ever going to post pictures of this 4x4 that you sold a tractor for?
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Old 02-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #10
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Definitely, use a transmission jack. The Harbor Freight one is fine. Be sure to take the time to strap it down to the jack. It is off-balance and will try to roll to the driver side.
If you think a floor jack will suffice, you are mistaken.

If you decide to unbolt the t-case under the vehicle to make it lighter, you will STILL have to remove the torsion bar cross member. Also, all of the transmission oil will pour out when you separate them. Even if you drain it ahead of time, there will be oil in the back of the trans case.
My advice is to leave the trns and t-case together.
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