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Old 03-31-2018, 03:40 AM   #11
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I'll give that a try too. It's hard not giving up and putting everything back together. I wish I could tie something to the tear drop side and tire it to a car and yank it out like an in grown tooth.
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:38 AM   #12
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Nothing beats my red truck. I ended beating everything senseless and finished up by replacing everything with new stuff. Mine were so stuck I ended ruining all of it in the way out.
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:33 AM   #13
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Alright than I'm following in your footsteps. I will say this, if you want the best workout, replace everything in an old rusted vehicle. I've been sore ever since starting on the truck 1-1/2 weeks ago.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vuko View Post
Alright than I'm following in your footsteps. I will say this, if you want the best workout, replace everything in an old rusted vehicle. I've been sore ever since starting on the truck 1-1/2 weeks ago.
Here's some advice, but I don't know how you will take it:

Get this one to at least ON THE ROAD status...and then sell it and buy another one to work on. When you go looking at another one, crawl under there first and have a good look.

They don't call rust 'cancer' for nothing. It's okay to fix up a Nissan in the limited resources of your own driveway or garage, and quite another to take on a project that should go to Counting Cars with a full crew. There's fixing up, and there's chemotherapy.

I'm not saying yours is like that. I'm saying sometimes you have to know when to cut and run and work on something else. If it gets to be too much, start looking around for something with a more solid base behind it.
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:13 PM   #15
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Here is a pic of mine when I removed it.

Notice how the pin is worn. That causes it to rest on metal when you try to remove it. If you can get it to turning, you can work it out from different angles.

Seems like I used a hammer to get that tab to turn, and a crowbar under the lip to pry it out.



After it is out, you are going to need to get that old sleeve out of the spring. That's where you are going to need a big socket to use to knock the sleeve out of the spring. Shown in the pic below, I used a 24mm 1/2-inch socket with an extension.



I don't know how everyone else does it, but I would rest that spring against the shackle above it, and hit it once really hard. That would cause the spring to bounce off of the shackle, so I had to reset it. Pain. In. The. Ass. If you have a buddy willing to help, it's worth it to buy him some beer to keep him underneath and holding that spring in place while you pound with the hammer.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Here's some advice, but I don't know how you will take it:

Get this one to at least ON THE ROAD status...and then sell it and buy another one to work on. When you go looking at another one, crawl under there first and have a good look.

They don't call rust 'cancer' for nothing. It's okay to fix up a Nissan in the limited resources of your own driveway or garage, and quite another to take on a project that should go to Counting Cars with a full crew. There's fixing up, and there's chemotherapy.

I'm not saying yours is like that. I'm saying sometimes you have to know when to cut and run and work on something else. If it gets to be too much, start looking around for something with a more solid base behind it.
I get what you're saying and yeah it has crossed my mind at times. The only reason I bought it im inspite of everything else was beacuse of super low miles, SE KC manual, and no leaks. I'll get it going and see where that takes. If I buy another one it's going to be in a desert area. I can deal with ruined sun dashes.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Here is a pic of mine when I removed it.

Notice how the pin is worn. That causes it to rest on metal when you try to remove it. If you can get it to turning, you can work it out from different angles.

Seems like I used a hammer to get that tab to turn, and a crowbar under the lip to pry it out.



After it is out, you are going to need to get that old sleeve out of the spring. That's where you are going to need a big socket to use to knock the sleeve out of the spring. Shown in the pic below, I used a 24mm 1/2-inch socket with an extension.



I don't know how everyone else does it, but I would rest that spring against the shackle above it, and hit it once really hard. That would cause the spring to bounce off of the shackle, so I had to reset it. Pain. In. The. Ass. If you have a buddy willing to help, it's worth it to buy him some beer to keep him underneath and holding that spring in place while you pound with the hammer.
Just had a thought last night and instead of heating the middle part i should have been heating the bolt. I feel like my bolt is shrinking only because it's getting hammer time. That bolt looks new, where did you get that if you done mind me asking? I just need the spring off I got a 12 ton press I'll use on it. Bought for the truck but been wanting one for a while.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:53 PM   #18
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The one on the left was the one I removed. The one on the right was the one I ordered online.

Diagram:

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...210-01w00.html

I ordered mine ahead of time, but it looks like you might need yours now.

You could call your dealership to see if they have Part Number 55210-01W00 in stock.

Ebay shows a set for about $35, so you'll know about what the dealership is going to get you for:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202060931868
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:52 PM   #19
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Hey guys and just in case, gals. In the words of Stewart from mad tv, "look what I can do".....
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:55 PM   #20
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And the beating.
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