Chevy LSX information

[scoobysmak]

Well I have been dreading writing this up because there are quite a few options of choices in this department and I am bound to screw something up when I write this, feel free to correct anything I have wrong. I might be a bit vague at times looking for that positive confirmation that I have the right information.

I know this is not the best source of information since anyone can change it but here is a Wikipedia link to give a few basics on the LS motors:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine

I personally would probably go this route if I wanted to do a swap all over again. The aftermarket parts for this engine is unreal (can be really expensive too though). You also have to plan very carefully which motor you have and where you want to go. Some motors have a 24 tooth reluctor wheel and others have a 48 tooth reluctor wheel, this makes a difference in which parts you might want to buy. The earlier engines had cathedral port heads, the newer ones use a square port head (the truck motors I think all have cathedral port heads). Some of the blocks are solid hunks of iron and others are aluminum. If you read the link posted you also have the option of a 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, and 6.0L from this engine design.

I would be looking for a 5.3 truck motor because they are cheaper to get than most of the rest except the 4.8L motor. I think the crank is different in the 4.8L so you have some extra parts to change. With the 5.3 you can just bore it out and put in new pistions if you want more cubes as they say (I know the 5.3L can easily be a 5.7L but not sure how they got to the 6.0L, might be another crank/rod change). I would get the iron block, I think I read somewhere the aluminum block only saves around 88 lbs. In the past I have seen a few stripped out holes on an aluminum block if someone was not careful putting bolts in, not that I would do this but not worth the risk. I also hear the aluminum block on start up makes more noise. The differences in heat expansion between iron pistons/rings and the aluminum block creates this noise. My final reason for an iron block, over about 750HP the aluminum version can start to develop cracks or warp over time while the iron version can take much more abuse. I would plan on some sort of forced induction so 750HP would not be out of the question. This is also another reason to buy the cheaper truck motor, why buy the expensive stuff when your going to replace half of it. I have not looked into just buying a crate motor but this could be an option as well.

This is probably just the tip of the iceburg as one might say, I have not done this so experience in this department is preferred over my guessing.

[asr321]

im doing a 4.8 swap over the winter. 5.3 and up motors all use the same crank(same stroke) just have differnt bore sizes. the 5.3 and 4.8 use the same bore the 4.8 is just the odd ball of the lsx's because of its shorter stoke and longer rods. they do have flat top pistons in the 4.8s as opposed to dished in the 5.3s.

getting to the point here you can run the 5.3 and up crank and rods in a 4.8 and end up with a higher compression 5.3. or swap stock 4.8 pistons into a 5.3 to achive the same thing

[dvdswan]

this is where I got most of my info.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...ification.html

[thekemosabe]

currently swapping in a 5.3 into my ext. cab hardbody...complete write up when I'm done. Currently fighting fridged temps and rust repair...

[Cmstone]

I'm in the process of considering a 5.3 swap. I'm going a different route, I have an aluminum 5.3 ls2. I don't plan on having more than 500hp which should be easy to achieve with a head/cam and tune. For me I don't see any reason having more than 500ish hp. I just want a street truck with nice tuned suspension. Plus with the weight of a d21 and that much horsepower that thing would be a beast on the street.

[Hardbody92]

Originally Posted by Cmstone

I'm in the process of considering a 5.3 swap. I'm going a different route, I have an aluminum 5.3 ls2. I don't plan on having more than 500hp which should be easy to achieve with a head/cam and tune. For me I don't see any reason having more than 500ish hp. I just want a street truck with nice tuned suspension. Plus with the weight of a d21 and that much horsepower that thing would be a beast on the street.

Don't forget to document it well and share it all here and take lots of pictures

[pratt]

I've got a lr4 (4.8) that will be going in my hardbody. Mine is going to take forever tho. Have about 5-6 hours a week to work on it. But I will contribute when I can. Also my build thread is in my sig. That's where I'll be documenting pretty much everything.

[rabies]

I figured I would land some info:
the AT 4l60E(electric controlled shift) trans fits LS and SBC blocks.
the 4l80 is beefier and also fits the blocks.
for manual the T56 fits (came from camaros, trans am etc) but go for about $1000-2000.

the motors can be cheap. the trans is not.
you can use almost any trans and get an adapter. some use jeep trans.
you can use standalone harness and ECU or do your own wiring.
you can convert any LS to carb or vice versa.
they all use the same coils.
SBC and LS motors use dif exhaust manifolds.
a standard 4.8L motor weighs pretty close to the ka24e.....
buy truck motor use 6.0L intake.
several dif types of LS heads. 6.0L heads weren't good.
cannot use corvette trans...that was mounted in the rear on the axle...unles...mmm

[Ghosty]

Originally Posted by rabies

cannot use corvette trans...that was mounted in the rear on the axle...unles...mmm

a buddy of mine and i are gonna try to make the corvette driveline work. we plan to cut a section of the frame out if necessary and mount the subframe of the corvette there and fab up a frame around it. idk how we are going to do the front suspension and steering but we will cross that bridge when we get there