1986 D21 2WD 4 cyl, 5 spd, King Cab; U joint source and engine problems. - Infamous Nissan

LHD D21 · 02-09-2020, 03:30 AM

Sorry for the long title but; I've had my Hardbody for going on two years now and, the rear U joint's bad, truck built in Japan and, it has those tiny U joints; I'm NOT looking forward to dropping $400+ for a conversion driveshaft. And it's a 2 piece assembly.

Engine; the (probably) original 4 banger with 8 sparkplugs; oil pressure light's staying on for several seconds after starting it up. Note the head's been off and machined so, I have good compression on all 4 barrels.

Basically; since I 'may' be looking at major work/$$, any thoughts? I'm coming to the conclusion I'd may be better off replacing the whole drivetrain and, calling it good.

Cusser · 02-09-2020, 01:48 PM

About 30 years ago I removed the driveshaft on my 1979 Toyota truck, and took that to a machine shop and had new U-joints installed. Then re-installed the driveshaft.

nunya · 02-09-2020, 04:19 PM

A couple of months a go I replaced ALL my U joints, 13$ each and the carrier bearing about 35$, took a vice, angle grinder, brass drift, a chisel and a little cussing. I would suggest you try it. It won't change the fact that your truck was made in Japan, you mentioned THAT was a problem for you. As far as the oil pressure light, does you engine rattle or knock when you first start it? Have you cleaned the electrical connection to your oil sending unit? have you changed the oil sending unit? How about running some rislone through it 100 miles prior to changing oil, getting a filter with a check valve in it. If any of these things fix your oil light, will you still want a new drive train? Your truck STILL will have come from Japa.

LHD D21 · 02-09-2020, 05:45 PM

For the record; replacing the U joints doesn't scare me but, availability does. Meaning that the cup diameter is ca .875" and outer diameter is ca 2.4". Apparently, the USA built D21s used the very common 369 joint.

I'll change the oil and filter one day this week, at where I work.

SBJ · 02-09-2020, 07:13 PM

Just a thought here...why not hit up the junkyard and get a driveshaft from a similar US production truck? Then you could put new joints in it and swap it in at your convenience. The 1986-89 u joints are different from the 90-94 ones but everything else should bolt up.

Also, do you get timing chain rattle on startup? That's more of a KA problem but if the tensioner is maxed out it will bleed off oil pressure and take longer for the light to go out. Especially if it's been sitting for awhile.

nunya · 02-09-2020, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHD D21

For the record; replacing the U joints doesn't scare me but, availability does. Meaning that the cup diameter is ca .875" and outer diameter is ca 2.4". Apparently, the USA built D21s used the very common 369 joint.

I'll change the oil and filter one day this week, at where I work.

My apologies, removing foot from mouth presently.

LHD D21 · 02-09-2020, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nunya

My apologies, removing foot from mouth presently.

No worries

My post could've been written a bit btter

LHD D21 · 02-09-2020, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SBJ

Just a thought here...why not hit up the junkyard and get a driveshaft from a similar US production truck? Then you could put new joints in it and swap it in at your convenience. The 1986-89 u joints are different from the 90-94 ones but everything else should bolt up.

Also, do you get timing chain rattle on startup? That's more of a KA problem but if the tensioner is maxed out it will bleed off oil pressure and take longer for the light to go out. Especially if it's been sitting for awhile.

I live in Bullhead City so, the chances of my finding any Hardbody at a wrecking yard is slim, at best.

SBJ · 02-09-2020, 09:51 PM

Fair enough. I have the old junk driveshaft out of my 1990 but I don't think it would be of any use to you. It's too short (single cab) and I'm pretty sure I bent one of the yokes trying to put u-joints in it. FWIW, the joints I bought were for a 300ZX and were a correct fit.

LHD D21 · 02-09-2020, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SBJ

Fair enough. I have the old junk driveshaft out of my 1990 but I don't think it would be of any use to you. It's too short (single cab) and I'm pretty sure I bent one of the yokes trying to put u-joints in it. FWIW, the joints I bought were for a 300ZX and were a correct fit.

That may be the key. ^^^

02-09-2020, 03:30 AM	#1
LHD D21 Join Date: May 2018 Location: Arizona Posts: 51 Vehicle: 1986 Nissan Hardbody Thanks: 26 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	1986 D21 2WD 4 cyl, 5 spd, King Cab; U joint source and engine problems. Sorry for the long title but; I've had my Hardbody for going on two years now and, the rear U joint's bad, truck built in Japan and, it has those tiny U joints; I'm NOT looking forward to dropping $400+ for a conversion driveshaft. And it's a 2 piece assembly. Engine; the (probably) original 4 banger with 8 sparkplugs; oil pressure light's staying on for several seconds after starting it up. Note the head's been off and machined so, I have good compression on all 4 barrels. Basically; since I 'may' be looking at major work/$$, any thoughts? I'm coming to the conclusion I'd may be better off replacing the whole drivetrain and, calling it good.

02-09-2020, 01:48 PM	#2
Cusser Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Hot Arizona Posts: 817 Vehicle: 2004 Frontier Thanks: 0 Thanked 150 Times in 132 Posts	About 30 years ago I removed the driveshaft on my 1979 Toyota truck, and took that to a machine shop and had new U-joints installed. Then re-installed the driveshaft. __________________ 2004 Frontier King Cab (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder, 105K), 1998 Frontier regular cab (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder 253K), 1988 Mazda B2200 (2WD, 5-speed, 4-cylinder, 220K), 1971 VW Convertible (140K), 2005 Yukon (215K), 1970 VW (260+K)

02-09-2020, 09:51 PM	#9
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,132 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	Fair enough. I have the old junk driveshaft out of my 1990 but I don't think it would be of any use to you. It's too short (single cab) and I'm pretty sure I bent one of the yokes trying to put u-joints in it. FWIW, the joints I bought were for a 300ZX and were a correct fit. Last edited by SBJ; 02-09-2020 at 09:59 PM.

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02-09-2020, 04:19 PM	#3
nunya Banned Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Southeast Posts: 975 Vehicle: nissan d21 93 kingcab 2wd Thanks: 288 Thanked 225 Times in 188 Posts	A couple of months a go I replaced ALL my U joints, 13$ each and the carrier bearing about 35$, took a vice, angle grinder, brass drift, a chisel and a little cussing. I would suggest you try it. It won't change the fact that your truck was made in Japan, you mentioned THAT was a problem for you. As far as the oil pressure light, does you engine rattle or knock when you first start it? Have you cleaned the electrical connection to your oil sending unit? have you changed the oil sending unit? How about running some rislone through it 100 miles prior to changing oil, getting a filter with a check valve in it. If any of these things fix your oil light, will you still want a new drive train? Your truck STILL will have come from Japa.

02-09-2020, 05:45 PM	#4
LHD D21 Join Date: May 2018 Location: Arizona Posts: 51 Vehicle: 1986 Nissan Hardbody Thanks: 26 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	For the record; replacing the U joints doesn't scare me but, availability does. Meaning that the cup diameter is ca .875" and outer diameter is ca 2.4". Apparently, the USA built D21s used the very common 369 joint. I'll change the oil and filter one day this week, at where I work.

02-09-2020, 07:13 PM	#5
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 3,132 Vehicle: 1994 Pathfinder XE Thanks: 348 Thanked 605 Times in 536 Posts	Just a thought here...why not hit up the junkyard and get a driveshaft from a similar US production truck? Then you could put new joints in it and swap it in at your convenience. The 1986-89 u joints are different from the 90-94 ones but everything else should bolt up. Also, do you get timing chain rattle on startup? That's more of a KA problem but if the tensioner is maxed out it will bleed off oil pressure and take longer for the light to go out. Especially if it's been sitting for awhile.