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Old 12-31-2020, 12:07 AM   #1
Bman2895
 
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Default rear drum brakes head aches.

My old 89 has been giving me a fit. started with an occasional super soft pedal. went to the floor once. So i investigated and found both rear wheel cylinders in
need of replacing.

I went ahead and installed new shoes and springs. Apparently shoes for a 4x4 are hard to come by (had 3 different parts stores order them and only one managed to finally get them).

Drums didnt seem worn much. shoes were about half worn or so. Put it all back together and adjusted them in with a just a bit of drag. began bleeding them. I started with the driver rear as it seemed to have the longest line from the master. then passenger then passenger front then driver front.

Well it fixed the pedal feel, but the rear drums just wont grab that well. so i can jack up a wheel and have someone hold the brake and still be able to turn that wheel. Now the e brake does grab better as i can't turn the wheel with it engaged, but still the ebrake is worse than it was prior to fixing it. i can feel it grabbing much sooner when you set the brake, but i still have to pull it out pretty hard to have any chance of the ebrake actually holding the truck back.

Now ive done drum breaks a few times and best as i can tell ive got everything back together right (took pics before taking them apart and had a hanes manual) and they are bled out best i can tell as i wasnt getting anymore air out.

kinda stumped on where to look first, possibly still air in them somewhere? how snuggly do you adjust the shoes in to the drum?
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:49 PM   #2
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Pressure bleed the lines. Check out Motive Products' bleeder.


However, at this age, the entire braking system is past-due for reno, if not done already. So, for example, the main cylinder, the three brake hoses, possibly the front calipers and pads, etc. And check the condition of the steel lines. Then a full flush/bleed of the fluid.


I had to replace my drums too to get even braking. Still using the original discs, I think, after resurfacing. Rockauto dot com for parts.



For lefthand drive vehicles, the RR wheel is the first to be flushed/bled. Then LR, then RF, then LF.
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Old 12-31-2020, 02:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LugNut1990 View Post
Pressure bleed the lines. Check out Motive Products' bleeder.


However, at this age, the entire braking system is past-due for reno, if not done already. So, for example, the main cylinder, the three brake hoses, possibly the front calipers and pads, etc. And check the condition of the steel lines. Then a full flush/bleed of the fluid.


I had to replace my drums too to get even braking. Still using the original discs, I think, after resurfacing. Rockauto dot com for parts.



For lefthand drive vehicles, the RR wheel is the first to be flushed/bled. Then LR, then RF, then LF.
Yeah i thought about just doing the whole system, i inspected the lines and hoses and a few other things when i first had the pedal issue, looked good given the age. though pretty sure the truck has pretty much all original parts. master is nissan. old wheel cylinders were nissan. calipers pretty sure are factory.

truck had according to the original or what i assume was the original odometer 162k on it. though I've since changed clusters since the old one read about 15mph fast for some reason so that mileage could be more than actual, current one is spot on and has a factory tach.

it is left hand. I was always told it was the wheel furthest from the master that you bleed first then work closer. and thats usually what i do, i just noticed that the right rear at least in terms of brake line length was furthest so i started there.

how does power bleeding work? i grasp the idea of pushing the fluid through the system.
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Old 12-31-2020, 04:02 PM   #4
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Pressure bleeding pushes fluid with zero air through the MC, through the lines and out of the bleeders. You close the bleeders when it runs clear with no bubbles. You can make a DIY version.

Replace your hose. They can fail internally. The inner part of the hose will swell and act like a check valve. Sometimes they restrict fluid going to the wheel, sometimes returning.
Because your cable brake grabs harder, I am pretty sure your hose is toast.

The shoes will have different length linings. It matters which side the longer lining goes on. (front or rear)
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Old 12-31-2020, 04:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reserector View Post
Pressure bleeding pushes fluid with zero air through the MC, through the lines and out of the bleeders. You close the bleeders when it runs clear with no bubbles. You can make a DIY version.

Replace your hose. They can fail internally. The inner part of the hose will swell and act like a check valve. Sometimes they restrict fluid going to the wheel, sometimes returning.
Because your cable brake grabs harder, I am pretty sure your hose is toast.

The shoes will have different length linings. It matters which side the longer lining goes on. (front or rear)
oh boy. see i remember thinking that it looked like the shoes were identical, which has me wondering if i dont have two front shoes on one side and two rears on the other, but also yeah that hose coming down to the axel is also a great point.
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Old 01-01-2021, 05:23 AM   #6
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I just inspected the drums on my 89 because my parking brake was not engaging and had no rear brake power. i had to manually extend the self-adjusters until there was just the tiniest bit of drag on the drum to the shoes. You can do it without taking the wheel off, there's a rubber plug you can take out on the back side to get to the self adjuster, but I found it easier to just take the wheel off; easier to get a feel for the drag.
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