Over heating following timing chain replacement

[WetSocks]

I'm thinking the k-seal I put into the system is clogging coolant channels.

[estetic]

Has the timing been fixed?

[WetSocks]

I'm at about -13 degrees. It's running well, well enough where I am fine leaving it as is until my next oil change which is when I plan to remove the oil pump and rotate it over one tooth so I can get back to -10 degrees.

[Cusser]

Originally Posted by WetSocks

I'm at about -13 degrees. It's running well, well enough where I am fine leaving it as is until my next oil change which is when I plan to remove the oil pump and rotate it over one tooth so I can get back to -10 degrees.

Are you sure that the oil pump gear is what's off, or was the distributor "stabbed" incorrectly? The rotor will turn as the distributor is pushed down, to must start that more clockwise than expected.

[Reserector]

Ayuh... I wonder if that timing isn't causing the high temp... if it really is high temp. What IS the temp, anyway?

[WetSocks]

Originally Posted by Cusser

Are you sure that the oil pump gear is what's off, or was the distributor "stabbed" incorrectly? The rotor will turn as the distributor is pushed down, to must start that more clockwise than expected.

Pretty sure I wouldn't have been able to seat the distributor if the backwards "D" wasn't lined up correctly. I took my time getting the distributor to seat, pretty sure its not the distributor.

[WetSocks]

Originally Posted by Reserector

Ayuh... I wonder if that timing isn't causing the high temp... if it really is high temp. What IS the temp, anyway?

I thought about the timing being the issue, but there are so many other symptoms that make me think it's not the timing, especially now that the timing is relatively close to where it should be.

I measured the temp yet, but I can barely put my hand on the valve cover for a second after driving 20 min. The temp gauge doesn't go above 1/4 of the way up.

Nothing is coming out of the bleeder screw. Heater blows hot. Tstat isn't opening (brand new Nissan tstat) - irregular or non-existent coolant flow when looking into the radiator.

[Reserector]

That's weird that nothing is coming out of the bleeder screw. If you have air trapped in the head, the sensor may be reading air instead of liquid.

[WetSocks]

Yeah, I'm going to pull the screw out and take a look in and see if its clogged. I'm really starting to think it was the k-seal I put in there. If that's causing a clog (or clogs throughout the system), that may explain a low reading on the gauge, but a hot engine and probably the poor/no flow I'm seeing under the radiator cap.

I'm going to push some chemical flush in the radiator and overflow tank, drive it this week and do a flush over the weekend. Thinking a radiator replacement may be in order as well, but figure I'd flush first to see if that would work, but also clear out the gunk before replacing the radiator so none of it gets trapped in the new one.

I picked up a flush kit from autozone, so I'll hook up the garden hose to a heater hose, open the drain plug on the block (provided its not rusted in there) and really flush it. Then distilled water flush and then add coolant with the front end jacked up.

[Cusser]

Originally Posted by WetSocks

Pretty sure I wouldn't have been able to seat the distributor if the backwards "D" wasn't lined up correctly. I took my time getting the distributor to seat, pretty sure its not the distributor.

I don't think that you fully understand this: regardless of how the backwards "D" is oriented, the distributor will seat, just the rotor will not be in the proper orientation.


I also suggest jacking up the front end to bleed off the air, like i suggested earlier. Some folks have made mistakes figuring out which is actually the air bleed crew.