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Old 09-23-2022, 09:31 PM   #11
USCGamecocks20
 
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So essentially make a new large square of rubber gasket with RTV on a separate/flat sheet of metal, and then lay it over the reed block and trim accordingly, using the steps you listed above correct? That’s a brilliant fuckin idea lol.

Would it be worth trying to spray the metal reeds with cooking oil, putting a bead of RTV *on top* of the existing rubber gasket, and tightening the reeds down and immediately removing them to basically repair the existing gasket; instead of creating a completely new one? My only concern is removing the old gasket, and failing at creating the new gasket, and then the reeds being WAY more open than they are now lol. I think they’re almost usable as-is, but I went to make them air-tight again if possible; and definitely won’t want to make them worse if I can’t track down replacements.

The only remaining step would be gluing/sealing the new rubber gasket down, which could be done with a tiny layer of the same RTV I imagine. I’m definitely going to give that a shot, and would actually be a solution for the thread I started about how to repair this system, because it’s damn near impossible to buy these reed valves new haha; and in reality all they need is the gasket repaired.

Will defInitely credit you with actually making this a repairable system if creating that new gasket works out.

Edit: What would be the best type of RTV/permantex/etc. to hold up to direct exhaust exposure near the manifold? These reed valves keep exhaust gases out, so I don’t want to use something that will harden and fall off or deform with all the heat cycles etc.

Last edited by USCGamecocks20; 09-23-2022 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 09-23-2022, 10:57 PM   #12
big o
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My thought was to use the area the original gasket sits in, as the form for the new gasket that would be cast in the area it seats. The metal plate would press the RTV. into the seal cavity, the cardboard strips would give you the height / 1 mm for the reeds to sit on. Permatex has a silicone gasket /red/ that can take high heat. It will stick to the casting , if the area is cleaned to the bare metal. Any silicone that is pressed out into the oval holes of the casting, (by the metal plate) can be trimmed off, after it has set.
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Old 09-24-2022, 12:19 AM   #13
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Got ya, and I actually backspaced comments about using the reed block itself for a perfect mold after stating at it, and realizing it’s not a perfectly flat piece of new rubber gasket that I need.

If you look closely at the rubber around those oval rings, you’ll see there is a “recessed/lower” area between those rings and the 2 screw holes, so using the reed block as a mold (without the old gasket) would just produce a square at whatever height I sit it with the cardboard strips.

I guess I could lay the new gasket in that fully recessed square, and then use a razor to cut out that same recessed area, making two oval rings that “stick up”. Does that sound right to you?
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