Polyurethane Bushings - Infamous Nissan

SkinnyG · 06-10-2011, 05:36 AM

At 265,000km's, the truck was worn. It felt tired. And Nissan's soft bushings were once again to blame. There is no "Master Kit" for a Hardbody pickup. Instead, you buy the rear leaf spring shackle bushings (7.2103), the front control arm bushings (7.3102) and the front strut rod bushings (7.7106). The sway bar bushing kit (7.5108) was unavailable through my supplier at the time of the writing.

Leaf Spring Bushings

The rear leaf bushings are very straight forward. So much so that I have no real pictures. The leaf spring bushings took about an hour to change with no unusual tools. This should be a common repair, as the worn shackle bushings cause a weird snap in the back that you can feel through the entire truck when making a turn.

Worn out front bushings are easy to change.

As are the rear shackle bushings

Upper Control Arm Bushings

I changed the front bushings at the same time as I switched to BellTech spindles. The entire job took about twelve hours, but this included swapping the spindles and re-indexing the torsion bars.

See everything there?

Remove it.

The upper control arm is relatively easy. If your truck is fairly rusty, you will want a torch to help loosen the seized sleeves. The bushings come out and install quite easily.

Clamp the control arm in a vice and remove the nuts, lockwashers, and flat washers (save them).

Drill the bushing material out using a 1/4" bit in as many places as you can.

Slide the control arm off the shaft

I ground one section flat until I broke through the sleeve, then pried the sleeve off with a pair of Vice Grips.

I Never-Siezed the old washers and new sleeves, and greased the bushing. Slip the control arm back onto the shaft.

Assembled!

Lower Control Arm Bushings

I wanted to see if these, too, could be removed without a torch.

Yeah, right. I am that masochistic.

I drilled them as much as possible, I used X-Acto knives, I used a rasp bit on a drill, I used files, I used a Burnz-O-Matic propane torch. These were not fun.

The best way to remove bushings is always a torch. Except the Hardbody bushings are IN the crossmember. This means that the resulting smouldering-rubber flame will burn whatever is above it (your engine), and soot everything up. Or I could just calm down and use less torch flame. The Oxy-Acetylene torch at work was out of Oxygen, and my truck was up on blocks. I scoffed the wee Acetylene Rosebud torch and cranked up the heat. Torch, baby. Don't mess around.

Drill the bushing material out, twist and remove the inner sleeve, then burn what's left keeping an eye on everything else that catches fire - this part is nasty.

Press in the new bushing and sleeve - this part is fun.

Radius Rod Bushings

This is a no-brainer. You have to remove the rods anyways to get the control arms off. These were no problem at all. I Never-Seized the works.

Disappointingly easy

BUT NOTE: If you're bagging your ride, these might not allow enough articulation without fatiguing the radius rod to failure. Best to stick with rubber on this one for the bagged trucks.

Conclusion

A marginal improvement. The truck is a bit tighter, but nothing to write home about. Left front squeaks.

1989D21 · 06-10-2011, 05:44 AM

Lol, nice write-up. I installed all the bushings save for the front control arm bushings just because they looked like they'd be a pita. My leaf spring bushings always squeak. Very annoying. But at least the rear doesn't clunk around turns anymore.

dayid · 06-10-2011, 05:58 AM

Cool, thanks for the protips & pics - gotta freshen these up on my 720 in the next few weeks and have never done it before.

Foul_Mouth · 06-10-2011, 11:46 AM

Just got done replacing every bushing on my truck. It does make a difference!

david29 · 06-10-2011, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1989D21

Lol, nice write-up. I installed all the bushings save for the front control arm bushings just because they looked like they'd be a pita. My leaf spring bushings always squeak. Very annoying. But at least the rear doesn't clunk around turns anymore.

The key to not having squeaks is using never seize on the bushings or even a water proof grease on all sleeves and bolts that touch each other..

Corbinworks · 06-10-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david29

The key to not having squeaks is using never seize on the bushings or even a water proof grease on all sleeves and bolts that touch each other..

Great info..I hated that with my S10..made me nutz O

PhillyHardbody · 06-10-2011, 06:30 PM

Stickeroo? I vote yesssss.

RedAggie03 · 06-10-2011, 07:13 PM

Great information. Make me want to do mine. I know my leafs and radius rods need new bushings.

Foul_Mouth · 06-10-2011, 11:32 PM

Here's how my leaf bushings looked...not very good at all!

chunk76 · 06-11-2011, 12:27 PM

I need to put some on mine >>>> did the c clamp take them out ok????

06-10-2011, 05:36 AM	#1
SkinnyG UYFBR Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Okanagan Valley - Canada, eh?! Posts: 1,500 Vehicle: 1994 Hardbody Thanks: 0 Thanked 205 Times in 147 Posts	Polyurethane Bushings At 265,000km's, the truck was worn. It felt tired. And Nissan's soft bushings were once again to blame. There is no "Master Kit" for a Hardbody pickup. Instead, you buy the rear leaf spring shackle bushings (7.2103), the front control arm bushings (7.3102) and the front strut rod bushings (7.7106). The sway bar bushing kit (7.5108) was unavailable through my supplier at the time of the writing. Leaf Spring Bushings The rear leaf bushings are very straight forward. So much so that I have no real pictures. The leaf spring bushings took about an hour to change with no unusual tools. This should be a common repair, as the worn shackle bushings cause a weird snap in the back that you can feel through the entire truck when making a turn. Worn out front bushings are easy to change. As are the rear shackle bushings Upper Control Arm Bushings I changed the front bushings at the same time as I switched to BellTech spindles. The entire job took about twelve hours, but this included swapping the spindles and re-indexing the torsion bars. See everything there? Remove it. The upper control arm is relatively easy. If your truck is fairly rusty, you will want a torch to help loosen the seized sleeves. The bushings come out and install quite easily. Clamp the control arm in a vice and remove the nuts, lockwashers, and flat washers (save them). Drill the bushing material out using a 1/4" bit in as many places as you can. Slide the control arm off the shaft I ground one section flat until I broke through the sleeve, then pried the sleeve off with a pair of Vice Grips. I Never-Siezed the old washers and new sleeves, and greased the bushing. Slip the control arm back onto the shaft. Assembled! Lower Control Arm Bushings I wanted to see if these, too, could be removed without a torch. Yeah, right. I am that masochistic. I drilled them as much as possible, I used X-Acto knives, I used a rasp bit on a drill, I used files, I used a Burnz-O-Matic propane torch. These were not fun. The best way to remove bushings is always a torch. Except the Hardbody bushings are IN the crossmember. This means that the resulting smouldering-rubber flame will burn whatever is above it (your engine), and soot everything up. Or I could just calm down and use less torch flame. The Oxy-Acetylene torch at work was out of Oxygen, and my truck was up on blocks. I scoffed the wee Acetylene Rosebud torch and cranked up the heat. Torch, baby. Don't mess around. Drill the bushing material out, twist and remove the inner sleeve, then burn what's left keeping an eye on everything else that catches fire - this part is nasty. Press in the new bushing and sleeve - this part is fun. Radius Rod Bushings This is a no-brainer. You have to remove the rods anyways to get the control arms off. These were no problem at all. I Never-Seized the works. Disappointingly easy BUT NOTE: If you're bagging your ride, these might not allow enough articulation without fatiguing the radius rod to failure. Best to stick with rubber on this one for the bagged trucks. Conclusion A marginal improvement. The truck is a bit tighter, but nothing to write home about. Left front squeaks.

06-10-2011, 05:44 AM	#2
1989D21 Infamous "Hard"body Join Date: May 2009 Location: Fremont, CA Age: 41 Posts: 712 Vehicle: 1989 Nissan Hardbody Thanks: 53 Thanked 33 Times in 33 Posts	Lol, nice write-up. I installed all the bushings save for the front control arm bushings just because they looked like they'd be a pita. My leaf spring bushings always squeak. Very annoying. But at least the rear doesn't clunk around turns anymore. __________________

06-10-2011, 11:46 AM	#4
Foul_Mouth Infamous Autocrosser Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Western NY Posts: 4,314 Vehicle: 1986.5 4WD Reg Cab/ 1991 2WD Reg Cab(Red)/ 1995 2WD Reg Cab(Green)/ 92 WD21 4WD PathFinder Thanks: 461 Thanked 665 Times in 541 Posts	Just got done replacing every bushing on my truck. It does make a difference! __________________ Nissan Truck Videos (Builds-Racing-Shows-Tech) https://www.youtube.com/c/NissanTruckguy IG@ rainmaker_d21

06-10-2011, 07:13 PM	#8
RedAggie03 Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Age: 38 Posts: 2,408 Vehicle: 1992 Nissan D21 Extended Cab Thanks: 33 Thanked 165 Times in 140 Posts	Great information. Make me want to do mine. I know my leafs and radius rods need new bushings. __________________ 2014 Ford F-150 EcoScrew FX4 2006 Mini Cooper S 1992 Extended Cab Hardbody (sold)

06-10-2011, 11:32 PM	#9
Foul_Mouth Infamous Autocrosser Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Western NY Posts: 4,314 Vehicle: 1986.5 4WD Reg Cab/ 1991 2WD Reg Cab(Red)/ 1995 2WD Reg Cab(Green)/ 92 WD21 4WD PathFinder Thanks: 461 Thanked 665 Times in 541 Posts	Here's how my leaf bushings looked...not very good at all! __________________ Nissan Truck Videos (Builds-Racing-Shows-Tech) https://www.youtube.com/c/NissanTruckguy IG@ rainmaker_d21

06-10-2011, 05:58 AM	#3
dayid Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 37 Vehicle: 1986 Nissan 720-D Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Cool, thanks for the protips & pics - gotta freshen these up on my 720 in the next few weeks and have never done it before.

06-10-2011, 06:30 PM	#7
PhillyHardbody Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Posts: 12 Vehicle: 1994 Hardbody Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Stickeroo? I vote yesssss.

06-11-2011, 12:27 PM	#10
chunk76 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: gainesville ga Posts: 76 Vehicle: 90 x-cab hardbody Thanks: 19 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	I need to put some on mine >>>> did the c clamp take them out ok????

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