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Old 04-03-2016, 09:27 PM   #1
kenabi
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Default mini how-to : door jamb switches!

Pesky things, those door jamb switches, more so since they usually result in alarms and such not working if you have them installed. oy vey!

So, how does one go about deal with them? well, that's the not so fun part.

I ordered two switches (Standard Motor products DS282 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/st...mb+switch,4360 to be exact) and was happy as a clam, picked up two covers from a local place, and set about starting my replacement. Yeah, murphy again.

so, i order two of the ones above and they look like this; http://i.imgur.com/H0Ufuzn.jpg buuut. the drivers side one looks (not sure if exact) like this; http://i.imgur.com/RU7vsJt.jpg

Well isn't this just a problem. add to that the fact that i couldn't get the passenger side switch off at all, as that connector is a pain and i didn't want to break things, so all work was done right there, with only 4-5 inches of wiggle room. ugh.

alright, so say you manage to get the switches off the connectors so you can do this without the base being attached to the truck, you wind up with either one or two switches, if you get the passenger one off, it's a straight swap with the part i posted above, if not you can follow the guide the rest of the way to do the shell/internals swap like can be needed for the drivers side if you can only find that style (and of course, the base for the drivers side is still intact.)

okay, so you're starting your swap, you need the switch(es) and a tool. I prefer a leatherman micra for this sort of thing, due it having this; http://i.imgur.com/aRUzNGl.jpg as the taper is rather needed to properly pry the switch apart without breaking the clips holding it together.

sticking the taper towards the base (facing inwards, like so; http://i.imgur.com/tcooJqz.jpg ) and gently pushing in and then prying slightly up should result in the locking lug popping out enough to disengage that side. repeat for the other side to release the base from the outer housing, be careful to not allow the first side to pop back in if you cause the base to rotate as you wedge the tool in, instead of just pulling the locking clip away from the lug. if you did it right you wind up with this; http://i.imgur.com/GY9n9XM.jpg note the millimeter or so of extra plastic.

once you've gotten the base unlocked from the outer shell it pretty much just pulls out with a little bit of force, but not too much. keep a hold of both sides firmly, and don't just yank them apart, there's a spring inside with enough compression to shoot off into the random dark corners of anywhere. you're left with this; http://i.imgur.com/7ZQSpea.jpg

now, if you're only doing the driver side you want to keep the larger base handy with the top plunger and spring from the new one, but the smaller base you take off the new switch can be set aside as well as the rest of the old switch.

at this point inspect the contact inside the base ( http://i.imgur.com/zOjvlob.jpg ) for tarnish or corrosion, clean with the screwdriver or some emery cloth of a very fine grade (if won't take much) and blow out or clean out any debris with the screwdriver thingy you used to pry things apart (yet another reason to use a micra, the size is perfect for that.)

base clean? awesome, now we make sure we have everything in the right orientation to reassemble! http://i.imgur.com/quSBxl3.jpg note the screw hole vs the part that sticks up in the base. they must be opposite each other, and the contacts in the plunger must face those directions, or the switch won't work. if you just use the image as a reference all will be well as the drivers side is identical inside, it's just the plug connector that's different.

to full reassemble, hold the outer shell with the connector side up like so; http://i.imgur.com/2es7fF8.jpg drop the plunger into the outer shell, noting which way the contacts face so they're the way they'd be in the image two links above. insert spring into the plunger. align the now top end of the spring into the center of the base, seen here; http://i.imgur.com/zOjvlob.jpg with the contact post (the part that sticks up) on the side that is away from the screw hole tab. carefully push the two shell parts together while aligning things so they'll fit together and then push till they snap together. test the plunger for function. if you have a multimeter, test the ground ring on the screw hole tab with all the pins in the connector base, if things went well, you should get it to work right when you push the plunger in.

success? awesome! plug it into the truck on the relevant side and put the screw in (if you have the cover, new or otherwise, put that on first, as trying to put it on after is pretty much useless.)

open and close the door a few times with the dome light switch in the position that lets it come on with the door open. if it lights up, you're done! if it doesn't, you may need to test for 12v at the bulb socket, fuse, or whatever else. not sure how many others have this concern, but i needed to have my key in the on position to get the light to come on, but my light housing is also rather fubar and i need a new one so take that as you will.

album with all pics taken in regards to this; http://imgur.com/a/dV59n

Last edited by kenabi; 04-03-2016 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:38 PM   #2
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I added the switch to my pass. side door ( did not have one), only switches I had were left over from my former pathfinder and had 3 terminals in them, figured out which one I needed to use and had to break the plastic so I could solder a wire onto the pin, it worked fine. Don't have the rubber cover though.
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:46 PM   #3
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heh, yeah i was thinking i might get away with using one of the tiny terminals i got for speakers (those really thin ones for the negatives) but even those are a bit too big, and thankfully i didn't need them.
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:08 PM   #4
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nice writeup. i will make this a sticky.
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:19 PM   #5
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sweet deal
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:51 PM   #6
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your hands are awfully clean and manicured.....just saying....

The wiring for these switches...do they come from up top through the pillar or down below from the kick plate?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:58 PM   #7
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they run along under the door sill plate, and back to the b pillar, and that way behind the b pillar. not sure how they go into the pillar itself. there's probably a smallish hole along the edge closest to the door jamb itself. might try to take a pic and see how that goes when it gets a bit lighter today.

also; they really kind of aren't, my nails are whatever length i let them grow to before they annoy me and i chop them off, and i have no idea why my hands are so clean, i'm usually fixing stuff thats super dirty. /shrug.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:14 PM   #8
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You should be proud of your hands, you could be a hand model.....lol. I think I really messed my possibilities for repair of the switches up.....In my infinite wisdom while attempting to soundproof and rattle proof the cab, I have injected the blue non-expanding formula spray foam in a lot of cracks and crevices, the jamb area was the first installment....and I know my switches need replacing too.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:21 PM   #9
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well, take the screw out, if its not gonna be easy, you'll know right away at least. there is a bit of slack inside the pillar though, so if you didn't fill the whole lower part of it, you should be alright.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:06 PM   #10
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I know on my 93, the drivers side harness to the door switch was pretty tight, but inside the truck there is a clip that holds the harness in place, once the clip is removed there is plenty of slack.
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