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Old 10-18-2015, 06:31 PM   #1
ahardb0dy
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Default KA24E starter replacement tips

Just replaced the starter on my 93 with the KA24E 5 speed 2wd wanted to share how I did it while it's fresh in my head.

I saw a video showing to remove the support bracket for the intake manifold because the top bolt is hard to get too. I've read other write ups on the removal.

This is how I just did it and it took about an hour to do ( with a break after removing the old starter):

Not going into how to remove the tire, support the vehicle, disconnect the positive battery terminal etc,

Just removing the starter

1. I unplugged the connector for the solenoid to get it out of the way
2. I used a short 14mm socket on a 3" extension than a swivel and a 24" extension, was able to remove the top bolt with the extensions below the intake support bracket from through the fender opening no problem
3. removed the lower bolt with a 14mm socket on a swivel with same 24" extension
4. after removing the 2 bolts I positioned the starter so I could remove the 12mm nut holding the positive wire to the solenoid
5. with the positive wire removed I removed the starter from the rear, lifting it above the slave cylinder and than down and out of the truck.

installation of the new starter was actually a little harder because I put the positive wire from the battery on the solenoid in a position that it was not in when I removed it and it was putting tension on the starter so I could not get the new starter to line up with the bolt holes.

I had to loosen the nut on the solenoid and re position the positive wire than the starter lined up with the mounting holes.

I installed the lower bolt first and tightened it but not fully than installed the top bolt using the same socket/extension setup to get the bolt into the top hole, I started the bolt by hand (no ratchet) once the bolt engaged the threads I tightened it fully with the ratchet

than I tightened the lower bolt
lastly I connected the two plug halves for the solenoid.

Done
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:29 AM   #2
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I found going through the fender with a super long ratchet and wobbly socket was just fine, just be sure to get the wires off the OUTSIDE nut and leave the inside nut alone. But as for the main bolts - you can reach em through the fenderwheel pretty easy with the right extensions.

I never took off anything else - I'm lazy like that.
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:39 AM   #3
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you just posted the exact same thing that i said
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Old 03-09-2017, 09:01 PM   #4
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Great sticky that came in handy for me a few days ago! I have a few extra tips that helped me along, if that's ok to add.

Breaking the top mounting bolt:
I was unable to break the top mounting bolt loose with the extensions. Fortunately, I was able to get at it with a 14mm box end wrench, through the passenger side wheel well. Once it was loose, it was much easier to use the wobble sockets & extension to pull it completely out.

Supporting new starter weight while mounting:
Aligning the starter was a pain due to its weight, so I wrapped a bungee cord around the side closest to the grill (opposite the exposed gear), and hooked both ends of the cord onto latches in the opened hood. This made it much easier to just position the alternator, rather than support it and position it at the same time.

Corrosion Protection:
It's probably not a bad idea to add some electrical insulating compound to the exposed posts on the solenoid to protect from corrosion.

Threading top mounting bolt:
Getting the top mounting bolt threaded was hard to do by hand, since I could barely reach back there, much less turn the bolt. Instead, I shoved some styrofoam inside of a 14mm socket with all the same extensions as before, using just enough styrofoam to apply pressure on the bolt when the socket was seated on it. This made threading easy.

Hope this helps someone along the way one day!
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Old 03-10-2017, 03:40 PM   #5
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here is my hack contribution for starter removal.
had to remove it to replace freeze plugs on pass side of engine.

1. remove pass side wheel and tire.
2. carefully cut access hole in the metal fenderwell w/cut off wheel on 9" grinder. (watch those break lines and ac)

3. take upper starter bolt off with 14 mm open end wrench now that you can see it and get a wrench on it. then do bottom bolt w 14 mm deep socket.

4. move starter so you can get wires off it.

5. pull starter out of new access hole.

(note: my truck is my daily beater and was wrecked in front so cutting any of the sheet metal doesn't bother me at all. its all bent to hell anyway. All my plastic shields are long gone so didn't have to worry about them either)
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
Just replaced the starter on my 93 with the KA24E 5 speed 2wd wanted to share how I did it while it's fresh in my head.

I saw a video showing to remove the support bracket for the intake manifold because the top bolt is hard to get too. I've read other write ups on the removal.

This is how I just did it and it took about an hour to do ( with a break after removing the old starter):

Not going into how to remove the tire, support the vehicle, disconnect the positive battery terminal etc,

Just removing the starter

1. I unplugged the connector for the solenoid to get it out of the way
2. I used a short 14mm socket on a 3" extension than a swivel and a 24" extension, was able to remove the top bolt with the extensions below the intake support bracket from through the fender opening no problem
3. removed the lower bolt with a 14mm socket on a swivel with same 24" extension
4. after removing the 2 bolts I positioned the starter so I could remove the 12mm nut holding the positive wire to the solenoid
5. with the positive wire removed I removed the starter from the rear, lifting it above the slave cylinder and than down and out of the truck.

installation of the new starter was actually a little harder because I put the positive wire from the battery on the solenoid in a position that it was not in when I removed it and it was putting tension on the starter so I could not get the new starter to line up with the bolt holes.

I had to loosen the nut on the solenoid and re position the positive wire than the starter lined up with the mounting holes.

I installed the lower bolt first and tightened it but not fully than installed the top bolt using the same socket/extension setup to get the bolt into the top hole, I started the bolt by hand (no ratchet) once the bolt engaged the threads I tightened it fully with the ratchet

than I tightened the lower bolt
lastly I connected the two plug halves for the solenoid.

Done
Tony,

I tested with new relay....no good. Put new ignition switch in, and still no good. I get a click and then a groaning noise out of the starter - and despite a fully charged battery, the electric system seems to be kin of fickle. In one instance I can turn the headlights on with no key, and in a 2nd instance, not. Everything seems kind of weak. With 289,000 miles and never a new starter, it is time to get one anyway, but I want to exhaust the possibility of there being a 2nd electrical issue first.

Now, here's the real problem. I had started the truck and backed up to my firewood stack....pointing down hill pretty steep. I loaded the truck with wood, and that is when it would not start. I live about 1/2 mile up a steep logging road and am positioned to be able to glide downhill steeply the entire way (dirt and boulders.) If I put the steering wheel back on, should I have a reasonable expectation that I will be able to jump start the vehicle within that half mile....so that I can position the truck on a level spot in my gravel driveway to attempt the starter replacement? Your time and advice will be appreciated! Cheers, Reggie (Hoseman58)

Last edited by Hoseman1958; 03-14-2017 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Misspelled word
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:20 PM   #7
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Reggie - how are the battery posts/terminals? Double check the frame/body/engine strap grounds and that the positive wire is tight on the starter as well.

Also have you whacked the starter a few good times?
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:50 PM   #8
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Estetic - Thank you for the suggestions. I cleaned the positive battery terminal off real good with a wire brush, but since you mention it...I noticed that headlights wouldn't turn on (w/o key) so I tightened up on the pos terminal and got headlights....but only temporarily. Electrical system is acting weird now. For example, when I turn on wipers, there is no way to turn them off and, getting a strange whining noise from hazard lights just before they start blinking. I'm not sure what frame/body/engine strap grounds are, but I'm getting ready to either try to jump start the truck to get in better position to jack it, or, to roll it down a bit and then jack it. Since I have never actually been able to lay eyes on the starter/solenoid...it will be more than a pleasure to "whack it" a few times once I get to the point where I can see it. Thank you again!

Reggie
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Old 03-15-2017, 12:53 AM   #9
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A flat battery will do all sorts of weird things - I chased an 'electrical issue' for a couple of hours while tearing apart my harness for my v8 swap that was ultimately a low amperage situation (hazards would steadily increase in speed until it was just a constant buzz and all sorts of weird lighting issues). I would definitely try and jump it or put a known good battery in before too much finagling... Also check the fusible links (coming off the positive battery terminal)
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:43 PM   #10
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Sounds like a grounding problem. Remove and clean the battery ground cable at the body and engine.
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