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Old 03-04-2013, 10:06 PM   #1
Tally HB
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Default Clutch Damper Elimination Bypass D21 P/U

Want a good solid clutch pedal on your D21? This is the trick. It is not new and has even been posted here as well as most other Nissan forums.

This is just a refresh with very good closeup pics and instruction to complete the job.

I definitely prefer the new clutch feel over the old. No more much and long travel. Clutch engages just a couple inches off the floor and is not at all grabby.

Nissan, for some reason, decided to put a damper on their hydraulic clutch systems. What it does is dampens the "shock" to your drive train parts when you engage or disengage the clutch when you push or release the pedal. This supposedly protects the drive train parts from wear and tear.

It is basically a rubber diaphragm that moves with pressure and dampens the shock of the fluid movement.

What it really does is give you a long travel, soft, spongy feeling clutch with no "feel" and provides an area for fluid leaks.

Good news is that it can be eliminated in about 30 minutes total.




Here is the damper and is what you will be bypassing and/or removing altogether.









Here is a shot showing where the damper will be located on your Nissan D21 pickup. It is on the firewall, passenger side, just below the wiper motor and A/C line entry through firewall:


Last edited by Tally HB; 03-04-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #2
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To bypass this thing you will need a metric union with inverted flare on both ends. It is a 10mm x 1.00 Metric Inverted Flare union. They are in the brake hydraulic section and may be behind their counter or back in the parts storage area.

Here is the part you will need and it is available at nearly any auto parts store. Mine came From Advance Auto Parts and was just over $2.50.




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Old 03-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #3
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You will need a few hand tools.

- 10mm open end wrench or line wrench
- 8mm open end wrench or line wrench
- 13mm open end wrench
- 12mm open end wrench
- 10mm socket, couple of extensions, maybe a wobble and a wratchet
- Brake fluid
- Rags





What to Do:



Carefully break loose the two lines that go into the damper. One line comes from the clutch fluid master cylinder next to your brake master cylinder. The bottom line goes to the rubber line that attaches to the clutch slave cylinder.

Mine were easy to break loose. You may need some PB Blaster or other penetrating fluid to get your loose. Let it soak in a while if you use it.

Once you have them broke loose thread them all the way out of the damper body. Fluid will leak everywhere and rags will soak it up. Have some water handy to wash it all off once the job is complete.

Once the two lines are removed simply, and carefully, bend them to where the two fittings meet each other. This is pretty simple and they are already close together. You really need them to match up pretty close so that the union will be easy to thread to the two fittings and not get cross threaded. You should have no trouble getting them to meet.



Here is a photo showing what you will be doing:

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Old 03-04-2013, 10:09 PM   #4
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These fittings to the union need to be tight or it will leak. Using two wrenches, the 10mm open end wrench and the 13mm open end wrench (or whatever size hex is on your new union fitting), hold the union still and tighten the flare fitting into it tightly. I did the bottom line first then the top as it is easier to thread the union to the bottom line first so as not to get things cross threaded.

Once the line union is fitted and lines are tight, you can either remove the damper body or leave it bolted to your firewall. I removed mine. It is held in place by two 10mm head bolts to the firewall. The bottom bolt is a little harder to get too than the top. I used a long extension and 10mm socket to get under the damper and onto the bolt head.


Once this is done you will need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Likely, you will need to raise the vehicle up on the passenger side so you can get under the truck. I was unable to reach the salve with the truck sitting on the tires. Not enough space.

Find the slave cylinder on the side of the bell housing just behind the starter motor. It has a bleed valve you will need to get too and there is where you will need the 8mm open end wrench.

Here is a shot looking down from passenger side fender along side the engine. That is the slave cylinder down below the starter motor and beside the oil pan.






You will need a second person. Get them to sit at the driver position and pump the clutch pedal. Have them pump it four or five times then hold it to the floor. Then you crack the bleed valve open and let it spew fluid. Then close it off. Then have your helper let up on the pedal and pump it again and hold.


Here is the slave cylinder itself and the bleed valve you need to open to bleed the air out:







From under the truck, here is the slave cylinder on the passenger side of the bell housing beside the oil pan and just below the starter motor:






Check your clutch fluid level often!! The reservoir is small and empties quickly! If it runs dry you introduce more air into the system and you will keep bleeding and bleeding to no avail!

Do this process a few times and you should see it spit and spew air and foamy fluid. Once the foamy fluid and air stops coming out you can stop bleeding it. You should have a good solid clutch pedal now.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:10 PM   #5
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While under there you may see that your slave cylinder is wet with fluid. If so, replace it. It is cheap and easy to replace.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:33 PM   #6
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Great write up/pics!
I vote sticky if there isn't one already.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:19 PM   #7
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you're bout 3 years late on this... http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...=clutch+damper
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky View Post
you're bout 3 years late on this... http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...=clutch+damper
Yes, I noticed, but that thread was titled as "clutch" and did not initially deal with the damper

This one was for search purposes
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:36 AM   #9
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the part at autozone is part number BLU-9C for $2.49

oreillys has the same thing for almost 7 bucks LOL
it is an edlemann brake fitting part number 274000 and they will price match AZ.

i am doing this in the morning. im tired of the soft ass clutch pedal and everything has been changed but the damper. i will post if this solves the problem, which it should from what i have read.

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Old 06-15-2013, 04:08 PM   #10
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done. cost me a whopping 2.49 plus tax and about 30 minutes. the tools listed are exactly what was needed.

after i was done and went to bleed the system, all the fluid drained out of the master cylinder. no big deal, i have half a gallon. but it is what i noticed from the reservoir being empty is what troubled me. rubber residue. probably from the damper starting to fail.

when i removed it off the firewall, there was evidence of a leak on the diaphragm side where the fluid had eaten away the paint. yup. it was bad and leaking, but it wasnt too bad that i would have to top off the master cylinder.

i have had a spongy clutch for a while. even after changing the master and slave cylinders and the line, it still felt mushy. well i decided to do this after running across this writeup (someone revived the old thread) and it made a drastic difference in the clutch.

the difference is so big, i just went to the store to test it out, i killed the damn thing 3 times. i never kill my pickup or my semi that often for that matter.

so if you still have this stupid item on your truck, i would strongly suggest changing it ASAP. that rubber residue cant be good but now i dont have to worry about it anymore.

and i bled the system to where i had to refill the clutch fluid twice. no air at all. nice and firm. the only thing that is more firm is the clutch in my semi and an actual mechanical clutch.

Last edited by cadillacdude1975; 06-16-2013 at 02:05 AM.
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