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Old 11-26-2016, 07:53 PM   #21
johnber
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drop the rear mount and get it from underneath with a universal socket and a long extension.
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:13 PM   #22
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Default drop the rear mount?

You say to drop the rear mount, I'm not sure what you mean?
I've got the drive train removed, and the tranny is only supported by a jack. The crossmember that supports the tranny I had to reinstall in order to jack the wheel up to remove the starter.

The only thing holding the supporting crossmember up are the 4 bolts (2 on either side). I was thinking that leaving most the bolts in the bellhousing would help keep things aligned and somewhat supported.

Are you suggesting to remove all the other bolts and drop this tranny down just a little bit to give clearance? I'm afraid that if i lower this thing i may end up bending or damaging the shaft inside. I've got maybe 2-3 feet of extensions using wobble socket extenders and regular extenders but still can only manage to get on a socket at a bad angle.

sorry for being dense, but what do you mean when you say drop the rear mount?
oh and, thank you for the quick response!
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Old 11-28-2016, 02:09 PM   #23
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I meant drop the rear crossmember and let the trans down as far as it will go. then from the back of the trans you can see the bolt, long extension and a wobbly socket should reach it. of course leave the other bolts in the bell housing till ya get the pita bolt out.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:18 PM   #24
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Have you removed the cross member, and lowered the back of the transmission to allow more access?
A swivel, and a couple feet of extensions will usually get the top bolt.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:00 PM   #25
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I did remove the cross member and lowered this thing pretty low. Eventually, I did get the "pita" bolt out. It really was a pain. I then, with the transmission supported, was able to wobble the transmission back about a 1/2 inch. I didn't realize on the driver side of the transmission there is a pilot, looks like piping, gadget in one of the bolt holes which i used a pry bar with very light pressure to back the transmission out further.

The transmission crossmember is removed, however there is still the mount that connects to the exhaust (and also crossmember) attached. I'm thinking this too needs to come off which will make reattaching this thing an even further pita.

In order to get the transmission all the way disconnected, I had to slightly rotate the transmission in order to get it further backwards towards the rear of the truck. I'm not a very big guy and can't bench hundreds of pounds, but this transmission doesn't seem to be all that heavy as imagined.

My current hurdle is lowering the front end of the transmission down far enough to be able to pull it out. I've tried pushing the transmission further backwards but it just seems like the transmission ends up getting too tall/wide in order to push back far enough to really get access to the clutch bolts. I may be wrong. Another member on here said it was possible so I believe so, but I have just been encountering issues.
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Old 11-29-2016, 01:02 AM   #26
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Well I got the transmission off and pulled out.

*Tip*
Make sure the wires are completely free from the transmission before removing.

There are some bolts on the transmission that have flexible steel that ends up getting used and bent in a loop to kinda tuck the wires back and make sure they don't move around. I had missed one and it was almost causing me some issues.

A few questions for you guys:
Is it okay to clean up this transmission while I have it removed?
Can I pressure wash the outside with the cables still on the transmission?
I am thinking I might want to put a plastic bag or something over them before cleaning up.
Is it okay to clean out the inside with some dechlorinated brake cleaner?
It seems hella greasy inside and wondered if it would be okay to clean up.
The flywheel, it feels smooth but I had seen another tut where the writer hinted that any burns or blemishes should not be ignored and it should be replaced.

Is it advised to replace the flywheel if it looks like this? It still feels smooth so I am not sure.
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...t=22757&page=2


And lastly, I think lastly, there is a small sensor at the top of the bell housing I had missed until almost completely removing the transmission. Does anyone know how to test this sensor to make sure it is still good? I'm not sure if I damaged any of the wires while trying to remove the transmission.

The top most bolt on the bell housing actually had a metal plate that had a lip on it that prevented the top bolt from being removed. It also had a bolt that sandwiched this sensor onto and into the transmission. Being that it's pretty greasy inside of the bellhousing, I wonder if this sensor actually had much ability to read properly. Not sure what it does? (Crankshaft sensor??)
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #27
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Yes its your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). The manual will tell you how to check it, but in part all it does is sense the magnetic resonance between the teeth of the flywheel (meaning it senses when the tooth passes by then the dip, then the next tooth over and over). If I recall they are a pretty cheap part, so I'd just replace it so you don't have to do it later (though some would argue if its not broke don't fix it).

Sometimes cleaning does more harm than good. First off, you should check for the reason it's so grimy and caked up (if it is even). If you don't fix the source of the leakage, then its just going to do it again.

Then if you do clean it, it may open something up that was sealed initially by the caked up grime. I'm not saying to not do it, just that you need to keep those things in mind.

I'm sure there are many people that's taken washers to them, I just wouldn't. I'd take a stiff brush and knock off the big chunks and wipe off the rest and call it a day. If you wanted to use an additive to cut the grease, that's fine too, but I wouldn't just liberally spray all over it. I'd apply it to the brush or rag before scrubbing.

I went and reread what you meant too----you meant clean the bell housing from the inside. Yea, same pretty much applies, but you need to get that checked out and fixed.

The flywheel seems to have some minimal glazing from what I can tell from the photo. Plus there's no telling the actual shape its in if its got any sense of run off to it. It may need to be turned to get it perfectly flat now.

Wait and see if johnber says anything, he's pretty much the Transmission Authority.
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:02 PM   #28
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I'm preeeetty sure the inside of the bellhousing is so greasy is because I was missing 2 bolts on the bottom of the transmission. I've had this car for 15 years and only one owner previously so I don't really know how those bolts got removed. I am betting they fell out? That seems odd.

Autozone quoted me 55$ for a replacement flywheel, but I don't really want to do it if I don't have to. I'm sure I'll open up a new can of worms if I pull this flywheel off. Also, There is probably some fluid behind it that will leak out or some gasket or seal that will in turn get broken and need replacing. I'm just real hesitant about pulling too many pieces off of this truck.

This project began as an interior overhaul, then... "while I've got the carpet pulled up, I might as well".... now, "while I've got the transmission off, might as well...."

Project List:
Interior Overhaul
Clutch replacement
*Possible* Flywheel Replacement

So the Crankshaft Sensor (CPS)... It's not actually the sensor that I fear I damaged, it's the connection between the battery-side wire and battery-side cable connector. I'll elaborate... the truck has wiring (2 wires I can see) that runs into one end of a clip, the clip clicks into another clip that then has wires going into the CPS. Like in houses and some other electronics, there is a positive, negative, and ground. I'm just not sure if I've ripped a cable free or ripped it completely. I'll get in there this evening and double check it was getting dark by the time last night I pulled out the transmission. Then again, all cables may be connected, but could be damaged further up in the strand/bundle of cabling running off the transmission.

Waiting to hear if johnber has some advice for me
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:45 PM   #29
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Unhappy I can't get it in the hole!

I know the op had said he heaved the tranny on his shoulder and shoved the shaft in the flywheel bushing.... but I am having ONE HELLUVA time...I'm having to rotate the transmission (as looking towards the front) to about 2 or 3 oclock in order to get, what feels like, the clearance or ability to lift the transmission high enough to get the shaft to the same height as the pilot bushing...I just cannot manage to get it in the hole!!!

Does anyone have any tips or tricks? I'm almost considering throwing in the towel, putting all the parts in the truck bed and towing it to someone in order to get it put back on. I know it's advised to have a second set of hands but at this point, i just get fatigued so quickly that I just cannot hold the transmission up long enough to wobble the thing around until it feels like the pilot bushing is found.

Any help?
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:48 PM   #30
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I'd turn that flywheel at minimum. Think it will chatter if ya don't. Be a pain to do all that work and have a problem. Stabbing it in there just go rent or borrow a decent trans jack.
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