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Old 01-23-2013, 02:54 PM   #11
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Give the transmission a hefty tug rearward, and it should come off the engine nicely. The transmission, at this point, was still supported by the tranny jack.
It looks like there might be enough room to just shove the transmission back on the torsion bar crossmember, and have complete access to the clutch without removing the transmission from the vehicle. However, my tranny was toast, so it had to come out.
Seeing that the tranny could not be dropped straight down because the torsion bar crossmember was in the way, I ditched the tranny jack and supported the tranny on my shoulder, and lowered the bellhousing end out the bottom.
i have done this. you can change the clutch pulling the transmission back, youll have about a foot of room with everything disconnected etc.

also note-96-97 hbs have a sensor with a connector on the very top of the transmission that is also in the way of one of the bellhousing bolts. its easier to get to once the trans crossmember is out and the trans is tilted downward slightly.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:06 AM   #12
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The speedo connector was at the top of my tranny, I didn't really think much about it - is that the same one, or something else??
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:26 PM   #13
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for my 97 it was a crank sensor actually inside the bellhousing. with it disconnected it threw a crank sensor code.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:06 AM   #14
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Was this performed on a 2WD transmission? I started tackling my 4x4 tonight, trying to remove the tranny, but I found the transfer case to run into the crossmember before I could push the tranny out of the input shaft. I was hoping to avoid having to remove the torsion bar crossmember, and I'm planning on removing the transfer case instead, assuming that will give me enough room.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:09 AM   #15
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ive changed a few 4x4 trans (not Hardbody though) and ive found its easier as you said to just remove the transfer case like you said
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:04 AM   #16
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Bumpsie because this topic has come up again, and to let y'all know that I SHOULD HAVE had the flywheel surfaced. It's a clutch chattering monster now. Clutch will be redone over Christmas break.

Also, the third time the tranny was out (replacing the tail housing - don't ask), I was able to just undo the six bolts of the shifter plate from the bottom, then lift and twist the shifter plate to wedge in between the shifter hole and the carpet/boot. This held the shifter up out of the way, and I didn't have to pull the carpet back and deal with the so-hard-to-get-to screws that held the boot down.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyG View Post
My 5-speed transmission was making some NASTY disintegrating bearing noise under low rpm load (lugging), as well as deceleration most noticeable in the lower gears. Methinks cluster gear bearings, but I had another tranny kicking around. And the hunch that the clutch was dying. So......

I reviewed AllData first, to see what I'm getting into. According to AllData, there are two steps:
1) Remove shifter (remove boots, and remove internal snap ring holding ball/shift-lever.

2) ( and I quote: ) "Remove transmission"
Not the most detailed of instructions. Thanks, AllData. </sarcasm>

My favourite tools for this job was a 3/8" drive butterfly impact, impact universal, and long extensions. The job is entirely accessible from underneath, and not that bad as far as trannys go.

Well, ok, the hoist was welcome too.

TIP: Disconnect the NEG battery cable. I didn't, but I'm a gambling man.


I removed the shifter assembly (six fasteners) as my existing boots were better than the ones on the replacement. I gave the carpet a good-old "heave-ho" to access the boot screws. I always hate doing this. Removing the carpet would be easier. I know some people just slice the carpet in the corners to access the screws better. A stubby Philips helps get the two forward screws.

I removed the driveshaft and carrier bearing.

I disconnected all electrical connections, and unclipped the harness from the transmission.

I removed the starter bolts.

TIP: Remove the upper starter bolt first. A standard length 14mm works best, with the handle angling towards the firewall. ~Then~ do the bottom bolt which is so much easier to get to.


I removed the four large engine-transmission fasteners, as well as the two wee ones at the bottom of the bellhousing.

I supported the transmission with a transmission jack (which proved useless), and removed the transmission crossmember. There are nuts on the topside of the crossmember you need to hold with a wrench. I pulled the entire transmission rubber mount as well, as the replacement was better.

Give the transmission a hefty tug rearward, and it should come off the engine nicely. The transmission, at this point, was still supported by the tranny jack.
It looks like there might be enough room to just shove the transmission back on the torsion bar crossmember, and have complete access to the clutch without removing the transmission from the vehicle. However, my tranny was toast, so it had to come out.
Seeing that the tranny could not be dropped straight down because the torsion bar crossmember was in the way, I ditched the tranny jack and supported the tranny on my shoulder, and lowered the bellhousing end out the bottom.

TIP: To clear the pressure plate, you may need to rotate the transmission slightly clockwise (as viewed from the rear).


TIP: If you're pulling the transmission, you might as well change the input shaft and output shaft seals. They are not expensive, and "you're in there anyways."


============= You're In There Anyways =============

While you're in there, you might as well do the clutch.

CDN pricing from my local Nissan Dealer: $380 in parts.

I picked up a "Premium" clutch kit from LordCo for $160 (list was $272).

TIP: To remove the pilot bearing, pack the crankshaft cavity with grease. A 1/2"-drive extension is about the right diameter (5/8") to place inside the existing bushing, and drive it in with a hammer. The grease has nowhere to go, so the hammer force causes the grease to push the old bushing out.


To put the new bushing in, I made a simple slide-hammer weight out of a washer and a heavy 3/4" drive socket. These slid onto the 1/2" drive extension I used previously, and using the old bushing as a spacer (to clear the flywheel bolts), I progressively hammered the pilot bushing in. Using the extension helps you hammer straight. The bushing was finished flush by tapping it flush with the drive-end of a deep socket and a hammer.

My clutch disc was contacting the rivets on the pressure plate side. The flywheel side was fine. It's usually good to pull the flywheel and send it out for surfacing. It's a stepped flywheel, so it'll be a bit more expensive.

I scuffed the flywheel with a 3M surfacing disc on an angle-die-grinder (This was a bad gamble - the new clutch chatters).

TIP: The "raised" portion of the clutch center faces the pressure plate. Don't get that mixed up or your clutch won't work.


I love that the clutch kits come with a clutch aligning tool. Way back in the bad old days they didn't. Golly that was misery back then.

=============================================

I got the next transmission ready to install, and heaved it up onto my shoulder. Tail end in first, slight rotation, and shove it into the clutch. Thread a fastener in by hand just to hold it there while you jimmy the thing home and thread the rest of the fasteners in.

TIP: Make sure the transmission is fully seated onto the engine block before you start tightening the bolts. Using the bolts to "draw" the two together may break the bellhousing.


Re-installation is straight forward, nothing to report.

Except the "new" transmission has a different bearing noise. Probably input shaft bearing. Figures.

TIP: Pour 2L of gear out in through the shifter hole before you put the shifter back in.


TIP: Use ONLY a GL-4 gear oil. I have had good success with gear oil that is rated for BOTH GL4 AND GL5. I have had BAD success with GL5-only.


Sorry no pictures. I was under a time constraint to get the job finished.

I was unable to remove the old Vehicle Speed Sensor from the old transmission, so I ended up machining a plug to seal the hole until a new sensor comes in.
How do I get the top starter bolt off?
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:00 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachm876 View Post
How do I get the top starter bolt off?
I took mine out through the passenger fender well with the wheel off the vehicle . I used a long extension with swivel . After I broke it loose I used a wrench to take it out.
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:00 PM   #19
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With copious amounts of obscenities, 7 prayers to our lord Jesus Christ, 2 promises to god you will never do bad things again as long as you can get to it, about 3 time out breaks, and one huge temper tantrum almost to the point of tears under the truck......and luck.
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:32 PM   #20
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Default Bellhousing bolts?

I need some serious help/advice...
I've got all bolts on my bellhousing broke free or removed except for one. It's the bolt on the top of the transmission closer to the passenger side. I am seriously "this" close to drilling a hole through my firewall in order to access the bolt. I can get a socket on the head of the bolt but only at an angle and the socket ends up slipping off with torque. It seems as though there is also not enough clearance to put a swivel socket attachment on as well. From another site I found the bolt to be #1 and 1.57 inches long. From these specs, it doesn't even seem like the bolt can be removed?!?!


(Please note: this image is for an automatic)

I can only imagine the manufacturer planned on the engine and tranny being removed together in order to gain access to the clutch by removing the bell housing bolts. From the previous posts though ^^^^ you all are showing me it is possible...

How do you remove this bolt?
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