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Old 04-03-2020, 03:14 AM   #11
Pinstripe
 
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Thanks for the replies everybody. So the process would go like this:

- Wire brush or sand all the loose rust away
- Apply a rust converter
- Use sheet metal and sealant to cover the holes
- Paint the areas using a rubberized undercoating spray. I could paint from the inside, as well as from below the truck, so the patched area gets painted on both sides.

Did I get the order right? I'm assuming the sealant will stick to the rust converter just fine.
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Old 04-03-2020, 12:06 PM   #12
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Any suggestions for where I can get a licence plate?
I have about 5 laying around, come get one or two.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:20 PM   #13
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Sounds about right....
Might need to scotchbrit up the areas with the converter chemical.. might be a little flaky, before the seal coat..
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Old 04-03-2020, 08:39 PM   #14
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Or you purchase a good section of floor from me. I ship items for these trucks all the time.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:32 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by PoodlePuncher View Post
in high school i had a 58 Fairlane for a while... i swear, the floor was 75% license plates
Do you have pictures of this Fairlane?

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Originally Posted by PoBoi850 View Post
I have about 5 laying around, come get one or two.
Haha thanks for the offer. What state?

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Originally Posted by FlintJunkie View Post
Sounds about right....
Might need to scotchbrit up the areas with the converter chemical.. might be a little flaky, before the seal coat..
Good idea, so the final coat can stick to the converter.

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Or you purchase a good section of floor from me. I ship items for these trucks all the time.
Thanks for the offer, but I don't weld, and the holes in the floor aren't super huge I don't think. I'm fine with doing a quick and dirty job that will last several years (hopefully).
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:10 PM   #16
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I know only evapo-rust converter... Its water based and when dry, you can do what ever to it....
Honestly for whatever its worth.. Id not even use it.. Just brush and make sure all is clean Vac'ed out.. then lay down the new metal.....
Once its sealed and tarred down , it be protected enough for the life of the vehicle..

Last edited by FlintJunkie; 04-03-2020 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:53 AM   #17
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Florida, lol. Other side of the continent. I thought everybody kept the old plates. In Florida, a plate expires every 10 yrs, and you get a new one. You can turn them in for a one time discount on a new plate, but it's barely worth it, so I keep them.
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlintJunkie View Post
I know only evapo-rust converter... Its water based and when dry, you can do what ever to it....
Honestly for whatever its worth.. Id not even use it.. Just brush and make sure all is clean Vac'ed out.. then lay down the new metal.....
Once its sealed and tarred down , it be protected enough for the life of the vehicle..
Interesting... that's a rust remover, not a converter, and I figured I didn't want to go to bare metal, which I was why I had decided on a converter. Thanks for the ideas!
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Old 04-06-2020, 12:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by OldGreyBeast View Post
I'm going through the same thing on my truck. Is your cab mount still solid? Mine had basically detached, ...
First of all, nice reconstruction work so far OGB!

That was my first assumption, really. That the cab mount area would be failing. If all you need is a section of floor, see what David has that he can send you a good section of, or just patch it up. That area doesn't require much strength.

But you really should poke around both front cab mount areas. They tend to crush upward into the cab a little at a time.
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:53 AM   #20
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Do you have pictures of this Fairlane?
unfortunately no.
that was way back in the 90s, where if i could manage to get my hands on a camera, I'd never remember to get the film developed.

was a powder blue Town Sedan, and was in terrible shape.


Much like my hardbody, i rescued it from the graveyard on my buddy's farm.
a short while later, it returned there.
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