Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-24-2021, 05:48 PM   #21
Deerhurst
4/86 SE-V6 2 tone 4x4 HB
 
Deerhurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 7,374
Vehicle: 1986.5 SE-V6 4WD D21, 2003 Audi A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro
Thanks: 891
Thanked 903 Times in 822 Posts
Default

180 would be acceptable to me. 190 is still within safe temp range.



I'd look at the water pump. Might as well do the timing belt too since you'll be there.
__________________
1986.5 SE-V6 4X4 D21 Hardbody
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Morimoto Mini D2S HID Projectors and Hella 500s
VG33i
Deerhurst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2021, 05:55 PM   #22
jp2code
Software Developer
 
jp2code's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Longview, TX [USA]
Age: 51
Posts: 10,444
Vehicle: 94 LB 2x4 Manual VG33e
Thanks: 1,669
Thanked 1,504 Times in 1,322 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
I'd look at the water pump. Might as well do the timing belt too since you'll be there.
The timing belt on the VG round tooth like yours is supposed to be changed every 105k miles. If you are at 92k, I'm with Deerhurst. Get a good brand name timing belt, tensioner and water pump. It's time.

While you have all of that stuff off, it's a good time to replace all of the accessory belts, radiator hoses and antifreeze. You already have the new thermostat.
__________________
Joe (not a mechanic!) Don't have an account? EMAIL ME
Factory Service Manuals: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/
Walk-through: Checking Nissan Trouble Codes
1994 VG30E to VG33E with H256 Cams

jp2code is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2021, 06:34 PM   #23
vtl5c3
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: HI
Posts: 27
Vehicle: D21 VG33 1995
Thanks: 7
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Default

OK, it's official - the water pump is busted. Not looking forward to changing it out, but at least I have a clear course of action.
vtl5c3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2021, 07:08 PM   #24
89'HBV6
Ol'school Geek
 
89'HBV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Washington State
Posts: 481
Vehicle: 89' D21 KC SE V6 5spd 2WD - 87' D21 KC SE V6 5spd 2WD
Thanks: 499
Thanked 123 Times in 106 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl5c3 View Post
OK, it's official - the water pump is busted. Not looking forward to changing it out, but at least I have a clear course of action.
So, your truck has just under 100k on the odo, right? Have you done the timing belt? ...or has it EVER been done?

If not, add this to your list as a part of a "clear course of action". Hey, you'll be right there. No better time than the present! Don't want to go back in, within 20k miles. Do it now...

I'm sure others will have more input, also. GL.....
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst
What he is saying it the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
89'HBV6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2021, 07:32 PM   #25
vtl5c3
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: HI
Posts: 27
Vehicle: D21 VG33 1995
Thanks: 7
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Default

The timing belt was done around 51K miles, about 6 years ago. I think I'm going to hold off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
So, your truck has just under 100k on the odo, right? Have you done the timing belt? ...or has it EVER been done?

If not, add this to your list as a part of a "clear course of action". Hey, you'll be right there. No better time than the present! Don't want to go back in, within 20k miles. Do it now...

I'm sure others will have more input, also. GL.....
vtl5c3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2021, 10:17 PM   #26
OldGreyBeast
1986.5 HB 4x4 3.0V6
 
OldGreyBeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: North AL
Age: 33
Posts: 4,012
Vehicle: 86.5 Nissan D21, 87 Mercedes 190D Turbo, 10 Mercedes E350 AWD, 17 Honda CBR500R, 16 Suzuki GSXS1000
Thanks: 400
Thanked 505 Times in 439 Posts
Default

IMO, it would be worth going ahead and doing it. You've gotta take all that junk off to do the water pump anyway. I personally wouldn't wanna have to get back in there just to save 20k miles on a timing belt lol.


It's a good time to go ahead and replace cam and crank seals as well. I got lazy and didn't do the crank seal on mine when I did the water pump and it started leaking a few months after. I drove it with the leaky seal until the next time I had to tear into all that junk but it was annoying having oil leaking out of it constantly.
__________________
Build log for the Beast - https://beastbuildlog.blogspot.com - Last Updated 8 MAR 2021
1986.5 FSM GI section - https://imgur.com/gallery/mjT18bV

OldGreyBeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
89'HBV6 (02-26-2021), Deerhurst (02-26-2021)
Old 02-26-2021, 01:11 AM   #27
VOTS95
 
VOTS95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 511
Vehicle: 95 XE V6 4x4 5 Sp
Thanks: 61
Thanked 144 Times in 111 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl5c3 View Post
The timing belt was done around 51K miles, about 6 years ago. I think I'm going to hold off.
The life of the belt isn't just measured in miles, you have to factor in years. The belt costs less than $20 and it's cheap insurance to just replace it.

I've done the FOES a number of times but only had one experience with a broken belt and bent valves. I'd much rather replace the belt, there's a BIG time/money difference.

If you're keeping the truck, replace the seals. The OE seals are cheap, if you don't you'll be kicking yourself real hard when that first drop of oil lands on your floor/driveway/parking spot. If you do this particular engine service the correct way, you'll probably never have to deal with it again.

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
89'HBV6 (02-26-2021)
Old 02-26-2021, 03:16 AM   #28
vtl5c3
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: HI
Posts: 27
Vehicle: D21 VG33 1995
Thanks: 7
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Default

I've come to realize that the timing belt might be fouled by coolant... even if it's not, I've decided to change it out. This is all new to me, so it will be a rite of passage.

Thanks for your input. It's been really helpful.
vtl5c3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
Deerhurst (02-26-2021)
Old 02-26-2021, 05:11 AM   #29
Deerhurst
4/86 SE-V6 2 tone 4x4 HB
 
Deerhurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 7,374
Vehicle: 1986.5 SE-V6 4WD D21, 2003 Audi A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro
Thanks: 891
Thanked 903 Times in 822 Posts
Default

Doing a timing belt isn't hard. Just set the engine at TDC for #1 on compression and be careful when you take it off. The springs on the valves will move the cams violently. Use zip ties to hold the belt in place on the cams when you reinstall.
__________________
1986.5 SE-V6 4X4 D21 Hardbody
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Morimoto Mini D2S HID Projectors and Hella 500s
VG33i
Deerhurst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2021, 07:28 AM   #30
cadillacdude1975
The Gear Jammer
 
cadillacdude1975's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Age: 48
Posts: 10,293
Vehicle: 87 VG33 Pathfinder SE 4x4 & 87 D21 SE
Thanks: 430
Thanked 1,300 Times in 1,182 Posts
Default

The belt job isn’t too bad. You will need a 24mm socket for the balancer bolt, 8, 10, 12 and a 14mm socket.

Disconnect the battery. Drain the radiator. Remove the radiator, fan clutch and both radiator hoses. Remove the belts and AC tensioner bracket (3 10mm bolts), remove alternator tension bracket. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt. The balancer comes apart, so be sure to mark it before taking it apart so the timing marks will be correct when you put it back together. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. Align the three timing marks before removing the belt. Also loosen the cam gear retaining bolts before taking the belt off. Remove the belt and tensioner. Remove cam gears. Remove rear timing belt cover. Change the cam shaft seals. Now is the time to change the intake bypass hose. You can easily see it once the rear cover plate is removed. It has a 90 degree bend. Remove the timing belt crank gear and rear thrust washer. Change crank seal.

After the belt tension is set, you can put the lower belt cover on and slide the harmonic balancer on the engine. You can start the engine at this point and let it run for a few seconds. It will not hurt anything. If everything is good, put it back together. Be sure to burp all the air out of the cooling system.

I have done this job so many times. I can have it done in about three hours…..because i have owned my truck almost ten years. Doing be afraid to ask for help and take plenty of pictures while taking it apart.
cadillacdude1975 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.