FS5W71C teardown pics - Page 2 - Infamous Nissan

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 08:30 PM

The input shaft bearing was tricky, mostly because the other bearing prevents you from using the bearing separator on it. I managed to get the 3-jaw puller under it, but just barely.

Countershaft locknut removed. After that everything else on there pretty much just slides off.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahardb0dy

This is video I saw, no idea if this would work in the truck trans:

https://youtu.be/5BMfZk6usXI

I'm willing to bet it does. From what I understand there are a few differences between the 240sx and the D21 trannies, but those look identical to the ones in the truck trans.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 08:47 PM

After removing everything on the countershaft and the reverse idler gear. I used a couple of really long bolts with the bearing separator to get the reach I needed.

Unfortunately I don't have very many pictures of the synchronizer hubs being taken apart and being put back together. Here's the mainshaft with the 3-4 and 1-2 hubs. You can kind of get an idea how the synchro rings fit in there.

cadillacdude1975 · 03-12-2017, 09:29 PM

i looked in my alldata for the 86.5, and it shows 5 hours labor to overhaul the trans. that doesnt count for the removign and reinstalling or the parts kit.

its 400 bucks labor to remove and reinstall, and its roughly 500 bucks in labor to rebuild one, and a good quality parts kit is in the 300 range.

so 1200 bucks average, 1350 for the clutch included. i saw that oriellys can order these things for 1299 i believe it was, so what the hell.................rebuild or swap. i guess that depends on if your obsessed with a numbers matching drive train.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 11:07 PM

Yeah, it's kind of a wash, especially when you consider that you WILL break something at least once along the way it probably isn't a cost-effective solution for your average car owner. Buying another transmission from O'Reillys doesn't even include the labor or parts like the clutch and gear oil, or the core charge. I bet it would be pretty easy to hit 2 grand total cost. I'm also very lucky that John is about 10 miles up the road from me, he bailed me out a couple times. Not to mention the amount of time -- I'm guessing I spent 50-60 hours on this thing when it was all said and done. This is just something I've always wanted to learn how to do.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 11:13 PM

Here's a shot of the 3-4 synchronizer hub with the collar re-installed.

Starting to go back together. New bearings installed in the adapter plate.

SBJ · 03-12-2017, 11:17 PM

Stealing these ones from the rebuild thread.

Shift rods and forks installed.

New input and countershaft bearings.

03-12-2017, 09:29 PM	#14
cadillacdude1975 The Gear Jammer Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Chattanooga, TN Age: 46 Posts: 8,564 Vehicle: 87 D21 SE KC V6 2wd 5sp & 86.5 V6 SE auto Thanks: 308 Thanked 945 Times in 876 Posts	i looked in my alldata for the 86.5, and it shows 5 hours labor to overhaul the trans. that doesnt count for the removign and reinstalling or the parts kit. its 400 bucks labor to remove and reinstall, and its roughly 500 bucks in labor to rebuild one, and a good quality parts kit is in the 300 range. so 1200 bucks average, 1350 for the clutch included. i saw that oriellys can order these things for 1299 i believe it was, so what the hell.................rebuild or swap. i guess that depends on if your obsessed with a numbers matching drive train. __________________ "Im officially lost" - wildbill

03-12-2017, 11:07 PM	#15
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 1,550 Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd Thanks: 166 Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts	Yeah, it's kind of a wash, especially when you consider that you WILL break something at least once along the way it probably isn't a cost-effective solution for your average car owner. Buying another transmission from O'Reillys doesn't even include the labor or parts like the clutch and gear oil, or the core charge. I bet it would be pretty easy to hit 2 grand total cost. I'm also very lucky that John is about 10 miles up the road from me, he bailed me out a couple times. Not to mention the amount of time -- I'm guessing I spent 50-60 hours on this thing when it was all said and done. This is just something I've always wanted to learn how to do. Last edited by SBJ; 03-12-2017 at 11:18 PM.

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03-12-2017, 08:30 PM	#11
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 1,550 Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd Thanks: 166 Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts	The input shaft bearing was tricky, mostly because the other bearing prevents you from using the bearing separator on it. I managed to get the 3-jaw puller under it, but just barely. Countershaft locknut removed. After that everything else on there pretty much just slides off.

03-12-2017, 08:47 PM	#13
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 1,550 Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd Thanks: 166 Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts	After removing everything on the countershaft and the reverse idler gear. I used a couple of really long bolts with the bearing separator to get the reach I needed. Unfortunately I don't have very many pictures of the synchronizer hubs being taken apart and being put back together. Here's the mainshaft with the 3-4 and 1-2 hubs. You can kind of get an idea how the synchro rings fit in there.

03-12-2017, 11:13 PM	#16
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 1,550 Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd Thanks: 166 Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts	Here's a shot of the 3-4 synchronizer hub with the collar re-installed. Starting to go back together. New bearings installed in the adapter plate.

03-12-2017, 11:17 PM	#17
SBJ Total Buzzkill Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: OR Posts: 1,550 Vehicle: '90 D21 4cyl 5spd 2wd Thanks: 166 Thanked 178 Times in 163 Posts	Stealing these ones from the rebuild thread. Shift rods and forks installed. New input and countershaft bearings.