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Old 05-09-2022, 02:27 AM   #23821
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Replaced the coolant tank with the NOE/Dorman one I had received a while back. Now I can see the coolant level without opening the cap.
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Old 05-09-2022, 05:37 PM   #23822
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I drove my Nissan, From Tallahassee Florida to Monticello Arkansas on Saturday. 604 miles one way. With only a 12-13 gallon fuel tank, I had to plan gas stops carefully. When I arrived in Arkansas, I swapped the truck for a F-150 & old ass "Honda 300" 4 wheeler. The truck swap is temporary, but the 4 wheeler is mine forever, mwah-hahahahaaa!
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Old 05-09-2022, 10:19 PM   #23823
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Originally Posted by PoBoi850 View Post
I drove my Nissan, From Tallahassee Florida to Monticello Arkansas on Saturday. 604 miles one way. With only a 12-13 gallon fuel tank, I had to plan gas stops carefully. When I arrived in Arkansas, I swapped the truck for a F-150 & old ass "Honda 300" 4 wheeler. The truck swap is temporary, but the 4 wheeler is mine forever, mwah-hahahahaaa!
Old ass Honda 300?

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Old 05-09-2022, 11:11 PM   #23824
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after work Saturday I stopped at the store, got home and unloaded, went to start the truck up.. nothing, tried again.. nothing, I looked down at the floor mat as I released the clutch and the little stopper falls out! lol, installed a clip to hold me until I can get the correct piece.. just glad it happened in my driveway because I had ice cream that would have melted! lol
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Old 05-10-2022, 01:04 AM   #23825
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Jesus Christ, jgreen.

So much for the kid's college fund!

EDIT: Holy Jesus! Really only 77k miles?

This looks so nice. I definitely need to do this.
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Old 05-10-2022, 02:17 AM   #23826
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Looks like I might have found this culprit today in the EVAP System for that pesky P1447 code.

Upon testing the Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve. It was leaking off pressure from one port to another. I’ll need to confirm which port was leaking in my notes to be certain.

The CEL code isn’t for a Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve(P1441). But looking at the circuits with the active and passive components. I feel it’s all relative, mostly due to the component being placed in parallel with the Vacuum Cut Valve(green housing solenoid; FSM leaves out the word “solenoid”.; Bypass Valve and Cut Valve are an assembly by the solenoid’s two hoses).

All testing was followed per the FSM.

- All solenoids are good(Resistance reads between 41-43 Ohms and pass air accordingly through their ports(A, B, or C) when energized as the FSM suggests
- Both Absolute Pressure sensors front & back are good(need to check the voltage differences with & without vacuum applied, as voltage will drop with vacuum applied
- Vent Solenoid is good
- Purge Control Valve(3 legs) is good
- Battery Voltage at all solenoid harness connectors front & back
- All hoses appear to not have cracks front to back
- O Ring on the Vent Valve is good(no leaks)
- Charcoal Canister doesn’t appear to have any obvious cracks in the housing or rattles with loose charcoal when shaken to clog the lines; (EDIT - removed EVAP Charcoal Canister and looked at it in broad day light; no cracks or damage to the unit)
- EVAP Vent Solenoid attached to Canister and battery voltage opens the valve strongly
- Removed power from EVAP Vent Solenoid; solenoid closes as it should
- Blocked opening on EVAP Vent Solenoid and blew air into “FUEL TANK” opening and air freely passed through the “PURGE” line and vice versa
- EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor(under the truck) voltages are in their correct ranges: 0 kPa = 3.0-3.6VDC; actual voltage reading with 0 kPa = 3.586VDC and -9.3kPa = 0.4-0.6VDC; actual reading with -9.3kPa applied = 0.586VDC. I used safety pins to access the pins with the harness connected like the FSM says to do to get the voltage readings.
- Air Vent Valve in the rear is clear; air and vapors are allowed to escape; no clogging/blocked port(s)

Notes:

1. Recheck all hoses front to back & back to front
2. Recheck all metal tubing
3. Recheck Charcoal Canister(rechecked on 05.10.2022) by shaking the canister for loose charcoal(was solid internally and Tennex makes the OEM units for Nissan), visually inspecting unit in broad daylight(best light source!) and lightly squeezing the seams and corners for any cracks I could expose
4. Remove the bed for better access to hoses and metal tubing and rear placed components(this would help immensely)
5. Ordered an OEM Nissan Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve for 20 bux; eBay sellers want 65 bux for the 2 hoses, Valve and the green colored solenoid, which I don't need all of those components or the price
6. In looking at the drawings for P1445. The ECCS Control/Trigger relay is directly inline(series) with the battery power to the ECU. I am wondering if the high resistance is coming from this relay, as it's never been tested or looked at/tested(This is high on my radar now)

7. I'll need to take voltage readings at Pin #5 coming into the 2 coils and see if the component is "chattering" with power applied; if so, I'll need to test the ECCS relay anyways, along with its connections(always a source of contention for corrosion etc.; loose connection; poor/weakened crimp(s); failing relay/coil(s) internally; wiring being chaffed, damaged or exposed
8. Check incoming power from the battery posts to the connections at the fusible links and finally at Pin #3 at ECCS Relay switch, which is in a NO position as drawn in the plans
9. Check power at the coil at the ECCS relay



Possible other component that is faulty(Not a hard fail. But possibly intermittent):

• EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
> When tested with power, component “chatters” from the coils and the plunger doesn’t move/slide back & forth to open or close the passageway for fuel vapors to enter the combustion process at the throttle body
> No specs on resistance are given; it’s a Pass/Fail component
> Resistance across all 4 harness pins are at/about 63-66 Ohms(FSM says 30 Ohms @ 77°); so twice the amount allowed; air temp was about 72°; maybe this is an issue contributing to not enough working power(current) getting to the 4 coils
> This component is newer and readings are comparable with another working unit

- ECCS Relay(Second blue relay under the hood on the right side fender out of the four blue relays from the firewall labeled "EGI RELAY"; the FSM clearly shows its position and name "ECCS" relay; not EGI RELAY; need labels made as the white printing has worn away from on the black relay cover)
> Per the circuit diagram on EC-9. This relay is fed power from the Positive(+) side of the battery through a fuse to the NO(Normally Open) contact to the Center Tap of one of the two coils and connects to ECM pins #5 & #16 and the other coil from ECM Pins #6 & #17 and from the Positive(+) battery post and fuse to ECM Pins #4(relay coil) and #56(NO contact)
> Need to test ALL points of contact for continuity, voltage & current draw(EDIT on 05.11.2022 - Tested for battery voltage at contacts 1 & 2 and 12.56VDC exists(coil energizes normally); Continuity also exists with battery power applied(contact closed); No continuity exists with no power applied, as it shouldn't because of the open contact); so a dead end at this point; will go back in to test more points of control
> ECM Pin Outs for Continuity still have to be done



- EVAP Shut Valve
> Located in the fuel filler neck/tube
> Test shows air/fuel will escape from the valve not fully closing
> Will use a simple dowel to push the flap open and check the other end of the tube for air flow
> Same for when the flap is closed; no air should flow

- Gas cap
> Pressure test needed
> It's pretty new
> Stant model
> Don't foresee any leakage from the valve inside of the gas cap(But leave NO stone unturned to seek & destroy this pesky Check Engine piece of sh!t code !



So there you POSSIBLY have it. A leaking Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve(P1441 code & a new one on the way) and a possible failed EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve(not fully convinced though)

I’m not 100% satisfied/convinced about the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve though. More investigation/troubleshooting is required !

To be continued…with more testing to do.

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Last edited by PorknBeans; 05-12-2022 at 01:58 AM. Reason: To find & destroy a pesky Check Engine Light code P1447
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Old 05-10-2022, 10:43 AM   #23827
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Pork,

When you get this all sorted out, you should make a write-up on the EVAP system. Honestly, I can't say that I understand how it works. It sounds like you are figuring it out.
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Old 05-10-2022, 02:16 PM   #23828
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Maybe once finished troubleshooting. It’ll be Sticky worthy.

I have to edit my original post to add a few items I left out.

In short, JP, purging of fuel vapors only occurs when your foot is on the gas pedal. Only then does the ECM read the voltage from the System Control Pressure Sensor. When all solenoids and sensors are open front to back. That is when purge flow occurs and fuel vapors are introduced into the vacuum stream of the throttle body for combustion.

So basically, all control points are open for business and vapors from the fuel tank and charcoal canister are allowed to be exposed to intake vacuum from the throttle body.

This is my understanding of the system thus far.
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Old 05-10-2022, 02:47 PM   #23829
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Maybe once finished troubleshooting. It’ll be Sticky worthy.

I have to edit my original post to add a few items I left out.
Keep in mind, this thread is HUGE! In 2 weeks, nobody will be able to find your post.

Someone can search for the EVAP stuff and the search tool will pull up this thread, but clicking the link only takes you to the thread - not to the post with the text in it.

I've seen some great info posted in this thread, but it gets lost among all of the other replies.
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Old 05-10-2022, 06:25 PM   #23830
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Understood, JP…

Maybe it can be moved to the proper section?
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