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Old 07-01-2011, 06:23 PM   #1
RedAggie03
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Default How-to: Replace front wheel stud

Discount Tire broke one of my front wheel studs, so I replaced it. Thought I'd take some pictures and share how it's done. Not too hard to do at all, I would say a 2 out of 5.

First I jacked up the front and took the wheel off. I gently tapped the stud loose. If it is broken off, you might be able to get it out.


Almost enough room to get it out!


Use a screw driver or something similar to gently pry the dust cap off. It's pretty fragile, so don't get too excited.


Here you see the cap off


Next use a pair of pliars and take the cotter pin out. Start by bending it straight.


Then pull it out from the other side.


Now remove the cap holding the nut in place.


Next use a large socket (about 1" if I recall) and remove the nut. It is not very tight, make note because you will want to put it back on this way.


Next remove the brake caliper.


Then remove the bracket holding the caliper on.


With the bracket removed, you should be able to remove the rotor assembly.


Flip the rotor assembly over and you will see the 6 bolts you have to remove to get the stud out.


These are tight and I was getting lazy, so...
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:23 PM   #2
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Here you see the rotor seprated from the hub. Stud is easily replaced now!


Yup, that's fucked. Notice the splines on the new stud are corse. Check this BEFORE leaving the parts store and taking your truck apart.


Here are all the tools needed for the job (minus new speakers!) and the parts removed.


Repack your bearings befor re-installing and install everything in reverse order.


No, I have not stumbled onto a poor mans 5-lug conversion

Hope this helps someone one day...Let me know if there are details I missed or if I have something wrong.

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Old 07-01-2011, 06:36 PM   #3
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good info, thanks for the write up
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #4
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cut the stud flush with the hub and use a punch to get this done w/o removing the hub
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estetic View Post
cut the stud flush with the hub and use a punch to get this done w/o removing the hub
Yeah, but how do you get the new one in then?
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedAggie03 View Post
Yeah, but how do you get the new one in then?
there you go finding the flaw in my logic... ahaha - good call
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:43 PM   #7
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nice job man
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:58 PM   #8
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In packing the wheel bearings:
  1. Force grease BETWEEN all the rollers. Like Jello squirting between your teeth, squeeze the grease through.
  2. Pack the hub with grease - the level of grease should be even with the inner bearing races. That way when everything heats up, the grease FROM your bearings stays AT your bearings, not flowing into the hub cavity.
In tightening the wheel bearing nut:
  1. Tighten the nut with a wrench whilst spinning the hub - this seats the bearings.
  2. BACK OFF the nut with the wrench.
  3. SNUG the nut back up as tight as you can with YOUR HAND only (taper roller bearings use NO pre-load).
  4. Use a NEW cotter pin every time. Wheel nuts are important, but your wheel/hub/brake is held on by ONE nut done up FINGER fight. Use a NEW cotter pin.
(ps: I vote sticky)
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:10 PM   #9
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^^ Very good additions!!! I actually did not spin mine while tightening it, that is a good suggestion. I also tightened mine more than hand tight, but not by much.
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:00 PM   #10
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^^ do you know what the size of the studs are?

i wonder if there were longer aftermarket studs for them?

good writeup. although i'll say the 240sx (s14) were much easier
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