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Old 05-18-2015, 07:03 PM   #141
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Okay, I'm about to start this project on my '97. Just wanted to go through my list of parts to make sure I'm not missing anything.

-Beck/Arnley timing kit (appears to have all the timing stuff, oil pump gasket, and timing cover seals)
-Valve cover gasket
-Water pump and gasket
-Oil pan gasket - (I know the original post said these weren't available back then, but Fel-Pro makes one now. I already used the same kind of gasket on another ka24e D21 we did an engine swap on last year)
-All 3 belts.

Am I missing anything?

I'm assuming the timing cover just uses black RTV instead of an actual gasket(?).

I'm not changing the oil pump at this time.
To my knowledge, this is the 2nd time this truck has had the timing set changed. The previous owner was a friend of mine and he did it ~4 yrs(~20k miles) ago. When I told him I was doing it again, he didn't seem too surprised. He said his brand new '96 Hardbody broke the plastic guides at 10K miles back in the day.
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Old 06-15-2015, 06:38 AM   #142
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exactly what im going thru right now and noticed whoever replced the parts before they are not nissan certified is this my problem? what else do i need to worry about the platic fragments?
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Old 06-15-2015, 01:07 PM   #143
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I didn't worry about the plastic parts in mine until the 3rd time lol.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:37 AM   #144
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So one of my threads is stripped on the block to the hydraulic tensioner anyone know the right helicoil or bolt specs of that hex bolt? could be a mayjor issue why i still have start up rattle
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:11 PM   #145
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If the bolt heads are 10mm then the bolt threads are M6x1.0
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:58 AM   #146
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Default I feel stupid and lost right now...

I made a silly mistake doing my timing and learned that 2 hashmarks off on your timing is enough to make the truck not start/run

Last edited by PuddlePusher; 12-17-2015 at 12:43 AM. Reason: I found out what I did to make the truck not run and the other part of the post can be deleted... for dignity lol
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:48 PM   #147
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Default No need to remove oil pan?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedAggie03 View Post
Here is a little information on the issue with the KA24E timing chain rattle:


Installation Notes:

* Be careful with the timing cover. Loosen up the oil pan bolts and let it hang down so you lessen the chance of tearing your head gasket when youre putting it back togther. The book says pull the oil pan all the way off. You can just drop the pan to get the front cover free and never really take it off.
If I do the oil pan in this way, then it will seal up again without removing and replacing the RTV? And I presume you mean just lowering the pan a fraction of an inch and not removing the exhaust also?
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:58 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caduceus View Post
If I do the oil pan in this way, then it will seal up again without removing and replacing the RTV? And I presume you mean just lowering the pan a fraction of an inch and not removing the exhaust also?
You will want to reapply rtv as much as is possible to keep it from leaking. But it isn't necessary to remove the pan completely.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:01 AM   #149
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I have a 93 D21, 4cly, 2wd, 178K-miles. The engine was rattling at startup so I decided to change the original timing chain. I just pulled the chain and the drivers guide was gone as were two teeth off of the crank sprocket. I have replaced both sprockets lined up the silver links with the marks on the sprockets.I was very careful not to move either the crank or cam during disassembly. Now for my question: The drivers side of the chain is tight while the passenger side is very loose. Once I put the guides in I think it will move the cam about two teeth. Does this sound right or did I do something wrong. If it matters the truck ran OK but only got about 18mpg.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:11 AM   #150
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The tensioner on the passenger side will take up the slack on that side. If you have the marks lined up you shouldn't have anything to worry about. You made sure the engine was set to TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder before you started right?
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