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Old 02-24-2019, 09:41 AM   #21
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DO NOT ORDER STARTERS FOR D21's that are made or remanufactured in China. Do not do this.

They are crap. If they work, it isn't for long. They come with replacement guarantees, sure. They are still crap.

There are a lot of aftermarket parts for D21's that work just fine, even coming from China. Starters are not one of them. Your truck is recent enough you can get a good one from an auto parts store. I suggest getting one that comes with the pigtail already installed...and not from China. Plan on spending something around 150-200 for one and not having to worry about it for quite a few years.

Trust me on this...been down this starter road many times with these trucks. For some reason, it's 'pay me now or pay me later' kind of deal. Go with Chinese and you will be sending it back on a regular basis. Just isn't worth it. It's one of the really screwy things about D21's. They absolutely require a good starter and not a cheap one coming from China. For some reason, China has been taking in a lot of the cores. They toss them back together with the absolute minimum of parts until they turn over, and ship em right back out. But they are garbage.
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Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 02-24-2019 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:28 PM   #22
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I saw a similar warning from you in another thread about the same thing. My broken starter is a Bosch with a lifetime warranty, but I can’t find my receipt, so I didn’t want to spend a lot for a new one and then find the receipt. I ended up buying another new Bosch, and I got it for $100 plus tax, so that’s pretty cool. Thanks.

I turned the engine by hand, in neutral this time, but i didn’t manage to get any more pieces out through the starter hole. I also tried using a pickup tool through the starter hole as well as the shift fork boot, but I gave up pretty quickly. It looks like I will need to remove the transmission.
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Old 03-02-2019, 09:21 AM   #23
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Okay, I started working on it yesterday, but some of those bolts are hard to access and remove! A few questions:

I marked where the driveshaft meets the differential, the carrier bearing area, and where the driveshaft meets the transmission. All of these spots can only attach in four different ways, is that correct? I'm just making sure it's not one of those things that requires precise marking and can attach back in a million different ways.

I removed the two 17mm bolts that hold the middle carrier bearing to the crossmember, and the bearing and outer rubber section would spin freely around the driveshaft. I noticed an indent in one section so obviously this needs to line back up correctly on the crossmember, right?

I'm assuming it's perfectly fine to leave my truck sitting overnight with some of the driveshaft and transmission bolts removed or loose? I didn't remove any of the transmission to engine bolts, as I didn't want the transmission to hang and put stress on anything.

I bought a replacement starter bolt that is the same size, except it has a 17mm head. Is there any specific type of bolt I should be going for, or are regular ones fine? What about the nuts that connect the driveshaft to the differential? I think I'm going to replace them as the first one I removed got rounded off.

Thank you.
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Old 03-02-2019, 11:02 AM   #24
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'I marked where the driveshaft meets the differential, the carrier bearing area, and where the driveshaft meets the transmission. All of these spots can only attach in four different ways, is that correct?'

You did good. All you have to do now is realign the matchmarks on assembly, with the driveline to rear end last.

Bosch starter? Oh, that will work just fine. Apologies if I missed that and went on my Chinese-Starters-Are-Crap rant. I'll never buy one again.

When you put that tranny back in, if you haven't already done it, replace the pilot bearing. There are some tricks to get it out. Shove some grease into it, then fill the rest with bread. Use a drift the same size as the center hole on the bearing and tap on it gently with a hammer. Bearing will pop out. Or...you can use a hacksaw blade to weaken it two sides opposite and then (CAREFULLY) use a hammer and a screwdriver to get out the two halves.

If you go the bread and grease route, the best thing is a piece of wooden dowel that exactly fits the pilot bearing hole, then you can pound on it without doing damage. The pressure against the bread goes into the grease, the grease goes around the bearing, and the bearing pops out. But just you'll know, the last time I went the hacksaw and rubber hammer and screwdriver route.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinstripe View Post
I bought a replacement starter bolt that is the same size, except it has a 17mm head. Is there any specific type of bolt I should be going for, or are regular ones fine? What about the nuts that connect the driveshaft to the differential? I think I'm going to replace them as the first one I removed got rounded off.
Aside from the thread pitch, make sure you also match the Grade. There will often be numbers stamped onto a bolt head or nut to indicate how hard or soft the items are. If the starter requires a specific hardness of a bolt, make sure you get that.

If you bring the bolt into a decent hardware store, someone there should be able to help you identify equivalent replacements.
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Old 03-07-2019, 09:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Bosch starter? Oh, that will work just fine. Apologies if I missed that and went on my Chinese-Starters-Are-Crap rant. I'll never buy one again.
Haha, no worries, I appreciate the warning. My broken starter is actually a Bosch with a lifetime warranty, but I can't find my receipt, so I was considering the Amazon one because I may find the receipt later. I'm not actually sure if they would warranty it with the broken nose cone. Either way I got it for $100 this time so I'm happy enough.

Thanks for the tips about the pilot bearing. I don't actually plan to replace anything while I'm in there, but it's good to know!


Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Aside from the thread pitch, make sure you also match the Grade. There will often be numbers stamped onto a bolt head or nut to indicate how hard or soft the items are. If the starter requires a specific hardness of a bolt, make sure you get that.

If you bring the bolt into a decent hardware store, someone there should be able to help you identify equivalent replacements.
The bolts for the starter, as well as the driveshaft to differential bolts are stamped with a 7 on the bolt head, which I believe is different from the numbers you see on bolts these days. I searched and found a bunch of other people asking the same question, because older Japanese cars will have a 7 or 9 stamped on the bolts. The starter bolt I bought is class 8.8, and the four new driveshaft to differential nuts I bought are apparently grade 5, which is equivalent to class 8.8, so I'm just going with that. The nuts got pretty rounded off from using a 12 point wrench.

The only thing different is that the starter bolt I bought has a 17mm head instead of 14mm... and the same with the driveshaft to differential nuts. Hopefully the nuts fit, and if not I'll have to try The Home Depot or a dealer.

Thanks for all the tips.

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Old 03-10-2019, 09:02 PM   #27
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I'm still trying to get the transmission to engine upper bolt on the passenger side. I have spent hours on this thing and it is very hard to get to! I tried going through the shifter opening, but it didn't seem to work much better. XoXSciFiGuy, I saw your post in the transmission sticky thread about cutting into the floorboard in front of the shifter. I don't have the carpet in my truck, so I was able to easily remove the panel that surrounds the shifter, making the opening even bigger. I tried this very quickly and then gave up, because I didn't think I would be able to hold the ratchet and all the extensions on the bolt and then work the ratchet from inside the cab. The biggest problem seems to be right near the bolt, because the body gets in the way there and you have to angle the extensions. I wonder if there's a way you could drill an access hole through the vertical part of the floorboard on the passenger side.



Here is a picture of the passenger side of the truck, taken from below. The ground strap from the transmission bellhousing bolt to the body has been ripped. It was fine yesterday, but after all my attempted wrenching it broke off from the black plastic connector. Is this something I can just replace with regular 14 gauge wire? Also, what is that thin metal rod connected to the wire terminal that mounts to the bellhousing bolt? I believe it was taped to the ground strap but I could be wrong.
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:37 AM   #28
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So I figured I would give an update... I finally got everything back together and have been driving it for about a week, and everything seems fine.

It took me a while to pull back the transmission, but when I did I took out one piece about the same size as the one that I fished out through the starter hole, and two tiny pieces. I wonder how much damage it would have done to just leave them in there but now I have peace of mind that they won't do any damage. I put the broken pieces together on the old starter nose cone like a puzzle and it looks like I got them all!

I installed a new starter, new transmission fluid, a transmission to body ground strap I broke, new nuts on the driveshaft to differential bolts, and a new starter bolt. I tried putting strands of speaker wire on the stripped lower bolt but it didn't work. The bottom bolt is there but the starter is basically held in by the top bolt. The blade terminal that crimps on to the starter wouldn't hold on to the starter terminal (I'm bad at crimping, or maybe I don't use the correct pliers) so I ended up just wrapping the bare wire around the terminal. Hopefully it holds. I'll probably end up using J-B Weld or one of the suggestions you guys gave me for dealing with the stripped lower bolt.

Thanks to everybody for all the help!
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