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Old 12-29-2017, 12:02 AM   #1
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: West Coast
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Vehicle: 1996 4x4 5spd
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Default heated seat kinda writeup

ok so this is SORT OF a writeup of how to install seat heaters in a hardbody.

Im going to assume you know what you are doing and dont need help with stuff like removing a seat or how to use a wiring connector. this is going to focus on the hardbody specific stuff and some custom stuff that i do when installing these.

First, tools needed

-10mm socket (for all the interior screws that have a hex head on them)
-12mm socket (to remove the seat from the truck)
-14mm socket (to remove seat back from seat bottom)
-mid length number 2 screwdriver
-dykes/cutters for removing hog rings.


now with the seat removed, you need to pull the hogrings fron the lowest part of the seat back in order to peel the seat skin off.

This is a closeup of the seat back where you need to remove 5-6 hogrings. I cut the old ones off. you can pry them apart and reuse them but its pretty tedious so this time i bought a pack of new ones for like 7 bucks for 100 rings.

This is a picture of the same thing just backed out a little. note: the seat is sitting on its side in this shot. im pointing at the hogrings. they are easiest to get at from the back of the seat.

These seats dont have a zipper or anything on the back of the skins so you just peel them up like you would your girlfriends skirt. literally. dont be creepy or whisper to it when you do it but its the same. it helps to turn the skin inside out as you lift it up too. thats how they go on. seat skins, not skirts.

also the lowest part of the skin is the hardest to get off because of the lumbar and side supports. they are the bulkiest where the seat back and pan meet. work them slowly as to not rip out the seem.

this is what it should kind of look like. At this point i had not flipped it inside out yet.

After this is up you will have two more sets of hog rings to remove. they are at each of the different crossbars in the seat. notice how there seems to be stitching that runs parallel to the deck and kinda sections the seat into thirds? at each of those points is a metal bar that attaches the seat skin to the pad.

If youve ever installed a headliner that used bowes, they are essentially like that.

Lower-zoomed out

Lower closer up

a little hard to see but you can kinda make out a hog ring in there.

this is a shot of the upper bar, after the lower had been cut free

Now, trim and install the heating pads where you want them. we are all a little different shape so youll have to adjust that for yourself.

The seat bottom is the same theory as the the seat back but slightly easier. The passenger side is a little tretcherous because that seat slider is spring loaded. if its in the wrong position and you bump the release it will come shooting at your head and either brain you or miss by thousandths of an inch. how do i know this? i bumped the release and the rail missed my dome by like 1/872398472398471293874612893141th of an inch with a big clang and me shouting "FUCK!" really loudly. you have to remove the sliders to get the seat skins off.

Now the real work begins. so far all of this was done inside the house on a snowy day. the next part was done in the garage on a fucking cold snowy day.

the biggest issue for me was how to get a power wire into the truck. , oddly enough my truck has MOST of the available options so all the common unused pass-throughs were occupied. I wound up pulling the passenger side fender liner and drilling a 1/2in hole in the bodywork so the wire would come through the pass-side kick panel. heres a shitty picture of the hole looking up behind the fender form the wheel well.

i pushed the wire through and it came out like so.

NOTE: in the picture above you can see a factory ground screw. great place to stick a ground of any kind. there are also two more factory grounds under the seats concealed by the carpet.

heres where yous got choices. I decided to plumb in a relay so these wold only work with the key in the ignition, or "keyed hot." So i did a bunch of weird extra wiring and used an add-a-circuit in the radio fuse slot for signal to the relay.

heres a shot of where i mounted my switch

heres a shot of how i bundled the wiring up under the seat. I like to keep as much of it off the floor as i can.

This is effectively the end of the hardbody specific stuff. just toss the seat back in and hit the switch. i only tested them for about 5mins in the driveway. the parts where the heater pad were significantly more comfortable the the outside edges of my ass. so theres that.

for what was like 85 bucks worth of parts and about 12hrs of my life i think it was worth it.

Last edited by street_rulerr; 12-29-2017 at 12:24 AM.
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