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Old 07-18-2018, 03:49 AM   #11
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Just don't get a rebuilt one.

The Nissan starters and alternators last a really long time. Usually, the bushings or bearings wind up going out.

When a rebuild shop gets starters and alternators, they do the standard "replace the brushes" and ship them back out.

There are lots of people on here who report that a rebuilt starter doesn't solve their problems.

So, spend a few extra bucks and get a new one.

FYI: Rockauto.com will have good prices, and there is a thread on here with discount codes.

Z24: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152

VG30: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152

Rockauto.com 5%off discount code.

The last post in the thread above will have the latest discount code.
If you sign up at Advance Auto Parts, aka Carquest...sign up for Speed Perks and give them your email. At least once or twice a month, they will automatically give you a code good for 25-30% off most orders that exceed fifty bucks. Then...after you make that purchase, a couple of weeks later they will credit your Speed Perk account with an additional five dollar coupon. You can also COMBINE that five bucks off your next order with their latest 25% off your order deal. I have saved hundreds of dollars in the last 18 months with them, and never pay full price for anything.

You don't even have to memorize your codes with Advance/Carquest. If you have a Speed Perk account signed up there, they automatically appear in your shopping cart. You just check the boxes and they are applied right there to your purchase.

About your truck problem: Sounds like bad starter, bad fusible link, or both. Sometimes the fusible link wire looks fine until you peel back the rubber cover on it. Could be burned, or mostly burned out beneath the rubber. And as others have said...do NOT buy a cheapie rebuilt starter. They just don't work well for Nissan trucks. Not at all. Get a decent starter.
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:39 PM   #12
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i would disconnect the battery and use a good volt/ohm meter to back probe all the fuse links.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:17 AM   #13
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i would disconnect the battery and use a good volt/ohm meter to back probe all the fuse links.
It's not recommended, but I once replaced a fusible link with an inline 30-amp fuse. It was the kind with a heavy wire at both ends, where you can pull out the blade fuse mounted inline in the center of the wire. Drove it like that for more than two years without a problem.

However...this tactic is not recommended by Nissan.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:07 PM   #14
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So before I pull the starter, I took deerhursts advicechecked the fusible links and relay bank (correct term?).

With continuity testing and the key not in the ignition, and both the green fusible link tops removed, i got continuity on the inner right base, but not on the outer left base. I think that’s a problem.

And with the key in the on position (not cranking as i don’t have a helper), i measured voltage at the relay bases in the bank. At the bottom two terminals of each relay base, I was getting 12.2ish V except for the “check relay” which was 11.4v, also might be a problem.

I read the fusible link thread, and I guess I should just order some.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:11 PM   #15
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Oh also, are fusible links common across engines? I checked a junkyard near me, and there is an 88 d21 on the yard, but there is no mention as to whether z24 or v30, or 2wd/4wd. If they are common across models it will be worth the drive to take a look.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:25 PM   #16
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Oh also, are fusible links common across engines? I checked a junkyard near me, and there is an 88 d21 on the yard, but there is no mention as to whether z24 or v30, or 2wd/4wd. If they are common across models it will be worth the drive to take a look.
They should work. Nissan had different part numbers over the years, but my guess is that was to change the wire colors.

Here's the Amazon link I have saved in my D21 list:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G0OLNVU/
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:29 PM   #17
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Great, thanks.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:31 PM   #18
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I've got a few spare green ones I snagged from a random hardbody. I think as long as the color is the same you should be good. I think the color denotes rating.



Did you pull them out one by one and check them? Or in the fuse block?
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:41 PM   #19
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I pulled them all out, then checked each base in the fuse block. Then starting from the fuel pump relay and working left to right (with key on), I plugged one in, checked the rest, plugged 2nd in and tested, etc. Same results for both methods.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:51 PM   #20
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Keep an eye on those fusible links. It usually takes a lot to blow one. If it blows again, something isn't right.

Usually, they will blow when some ding-dong hooks up the battery cables backwards or when the voltage regulator in the alternator is going out.
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