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Old 11-09-2017, 01:17 AM   #1
grimchemical
 
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Default Looking for answered thread links.

Hey Everyone,

First off, thank you to anyone that decides to participate and help in this thread. I know it's not always convenient to help someone with a problem that someone has previously had and posted and solved but I can't seem to find the exact wording. Please PM me any suggestions or more detailed questions you might have.

I've recently come into ownership of a 97 HB that hadn't run for 2 years or so and I was able to get it started and drove it home. The maintenance I had done was enough to get it about 10 miles all together and ran into some issues.

I know the answers to my questions are either here or on another forum but I'm relying on you to link me because my "Google Fu" is not serving me right now.

I will be updating this post over the next week or so while I troubleshoot and find more information. This is my first KA so...bear with me:

1997 Nissan Hardbody @ 112K Miles and no prior modifications (maybe exhaust but that's detailed below):

Previous owner replaced the exhaust manifold and O2 sensor. I noticed that there is a section of exhaust pipe that looks to be "fashioned" together and I think that this is where a 'CAT' might have gone. That section sits about 2 feet back from the flex pipe and is in line with the rear tire. The appropriate gaskets were replaced with the exhaust manifold.

In order to get the truck started at all I replaced the battery and replaced the small section of vaccuum line between the EGR and BPT valve. It cranked over and idled fine. When I drove it home, it had some expected "misfiring" and surging issues and acted like it wanted to cut out at all RPM's. "Bucking" (suspected old gas and sitting)

Found loose exhaust connection at the manifold and tightened. Put 1/2 tank of 93 Octane fuel and 1 bottle of booster in the tank. Went through and tightened connections I could think of and it started and freely revved without hesitation. Started the next day and the hesitation and "bucking" were back.

Pulled MAF and airbox from throttle body and cleaned both along with spraying throttle body cleaner but not pulling the section off of the truck and giving it a proper wipe down. Seemed to help. Tested the TPS and it tests out exactly as the guide suggested for a good TPS.

Changed oil and filter, added 4 Qts Mobile 1 SAE all together. The oil is not milky, and the coolant hasn't been touched since I've started and it is not low nor does it give any indication of head gasket failure.

Truck ran well enough to get 2 miles to the gas station, in fact the CEL disappeared for that trip. When I started the engine again it came back but seemed to run fine coming home. I decided to drive it the 5 miles to work and made it fine this morning but over lunch I took it 1/2 mile up the road and let it idle 20 minutes while I ate to achieve full warm-up.

After the temps were nominal I started the short trip back to work and noticed that idle RPM seemed to have gone up slightly (guessing around 1100). I got about 1000ft down the road and the "cut out" or "bucking" started again. I would clutch-in and idle seemed perfectly normal, but under any throttle load it wanted to misfire and upon releasing the clutch, even at 10% or 20% throttle it wanted to just buck. I didn't continue so much that it would die but I had to baby it back to work. WOT didn't seem to help at all.

Alternator is doing it's job and there is minimal play (less than 1/2") in the belt.

I have messed with the wire bundle next to the intake manifold (the one that JP2Code suggested pulling apart and soldering) and it doesn't seem to have any effect on the idle condition.

I do not hear any timing chain ticking upon startup nor do I hear them when the truck was warmed up.

I am letting it sit there overnight and will be reading the CEL codes tomorrow.

TL;DR Truck runs ok cold, at operating temperature it wants to buck. Did the basics and am still having the problem. Looking for links to similar problems and solutions.

Last edited by grimchemical; 11-09-2017 at 01:23 AM.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:28 AM   #2
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Have you checked the timing. The computer changes it depending on the motor temp. May explain why it only runs crappy at temp. Just something to check.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:36 AM   #3
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The CEL is also only related to emissions controls.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:59 AM   #4
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Pull the codes, sounds like a coolant temp sensor problem.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:14 AM   #5
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Codes will be up tomorrow on this thread. I hadn't come across any search relating to a coolant temp sensor... I'll do some homework.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:05 AM   #6
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Should come up as code 13. It's a $18 dollar part. Located at the front of intake manifold and has an injector looking plug.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:22 AM   #7
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change fuel filter
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:23 AM   #8
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I was going to guess limp mode. Like others have pointed out, pulling the codes will tell you what to focus on.

There is a link in my signature about pulling codes, but your truck is OBD2 so you can have Autozone or someplace like that pull the codes for you using one of their code readers.

Also in my signature is a link to the service manuals. You should get the ones for the 1997 (contained in about 30 separate section files). The one you want now is EC.pdf (Emission Control). It will tell you want to look to when you get the codes.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:50 PM   #9
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Default UPDATE: Codes Read

Had the codes read this morning and here we go:

P0505: Idle Air Control

P0110: Intake Air Temp Sensor

P0135: 02 Sensor Heater

P0141: 02 Sensor Heater (Sensor 2)

P0446: EVAP Emission System Vent Ctrl

P1105: MAP/BARO Switch/Solenoid/V

P1130: Swirl Ctrl Valve

P1400: EGRC Solenoid

P1441: VC/V Bypass

P1445: Purge Volume Control

This is a lot to take in. The way I'm looking at it is there might be a few sensors out or dirty but I don't think all of these can be individual fixes.

Any help on where to start is appreciated! Gotta limp her home first though.
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Old 11-09-2017, 03:56 PM   #10
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JESUS! Shoot that fucker!
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