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Old 02-17-2017, 04:32 PM   #1
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Default Tips for improving sound? Do I need an amp?

Nothing Nissan specific but you guys are nice so I thought Id ask here. Looking for input on how to make my system sound better.

When I got my D21 Kingcab it had no audio equipment. Stereo and speakers had been gutted. Speaker wire was still intact and present.

About a year ago I bought and installed a Pioneer DEH-150MP head unit. Also bought and installed speakers. At this time I knew nothing about car audio. A year later and I now know just a little more than nothing about car audio.

System setup:

Head unit: Pioneer DEH-150MP. Can deliver 22w x4 channels @ 4 ohm continuously. 14w RMS per channel @ 4ohm impedance. One set of 2V pre-amp outputs.

Front: Pioneer TS-A1685R. each: 175w peak power, 60w RMS each, 4ohm impedance.

Rear: Pioneer TS-F1034R. each: 150w peak power, 20w RMS, 4 ohm impedance.

Acoustic music and talk sounds pretty good, but rock or whatever just sounds muddied, no details or clarity to the sound. Ive fiddled around with the head unit EQ but it still sounds bad. All four speakers are in phase.

Im wondering if an amp and sub would help me out. Im not looking to spend a ton of money, but if $200 or so would significantly improve things Id go for it.

What my research indicates to me:

If I want all four speakers and a sub I need a 5channel amp.

My weak rear speakers limit the power I need out of an amp. 150% of their RMS is 30w which is on the low end for an amp. Should I get rears that better match the front to make use of a more powerful amp?

Can I use two channels for front, one channel for subwoofer, and somehow combine both of the weaker rear speakers into one channel? Just get a 3channel amp for front, rear, and sub?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:49 PM   #2
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i would get a 4 channel amp
power the front speakers on the front 2 channels
leave the rear speakers on the radio's built in amp (rear speakers should not be as loud as the front or it messes with the "staging"
then get a subwoofer that is compatible power and resistance (ohm) with bridging the rear channels on the amp to power the sub

many other and better options, but i think this would be the easiest to stay within your budget

also when you listed your radio amp specs....."continuously" is basically the same as RMS, the 22w is probably peak power
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:19 PM   #3
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Honestly if you want better sound Manuel is right a sub and amp would do wonders. You can then turn down your bass on the eq to the mids and highs and clear up the sound they produce. The biggest issue I see with your setup is the front speakers aren't honesty that great. Switch to a component 6.5 with a crossover. Amping then would do even better but you'd be surprised how much clearer a component set with a dedicated tweeter is. That's out of your budget if you did all of it I'm afraid.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:25 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses, really appreciate the input.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:30 AM   #5
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Crutchfield has good deals, the Sound Ordinance amps are kind of a no name brand but they get good reviews, I would buy an amp from them if I was in the market, plus they have lifetime tech support
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Old 02-18-2017, 02:35 AM   #6
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i have my rear speakers and the sub running on the amp. the front and the tweeters are controlled by the fader. it thumps pretty good. ask scooby.....he has heard it thumping in his driveway.
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
i have my rear speakers and the sub running on the amp. the front and the tweeters are controlled by the fader. it thumps pretty good. ask scooby.....he has heard it thumping in his driveway.
Sounds like an easier job than hooking the door speakers into the amp.
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:19 PM   #8
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I do not run rear full range speakers in my king cab, I have Alpine coaxials in the front doors and two 12" subs in the king cab area, I think it sounds good, the subs have a level control from my crossover that I can adjust for each type of audio as I wish. I know I lose some of the audio spectrum since I have the front speakers crossed over so high, but doing it the way I am keeps the 6.5" door speakers from trying to reproduce the low bass and also keeps them from blowing.

I run 2 separate amps, 75x2 for the front and 200 x2 for the subs. I also chose to use a sealed box as I am not interested in the system being real boomy. I listen to all music (except classical and country) and the system sounds good.
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:00 PM   #9
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Ditto on the dislike of country! I'm assuming both amps are mounted behind your seat? I just pulled 2 6.5in sony explodes from the spare vehicle, so we will see if that makes a difference. My stereo system was gutted when i bought the truck so i got some work to do.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:01 PM   #10
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I'd say get a better head unit and better speakers. I personally shy away from coaxial, as they seem to have, moshy sound, but sometimes tweeters aren't an option.

I bought a set of paper cone 6.5" drivers for the front of my D21 and 6.5" Polypropelyne for the rears. Polypropelyne usually does bass/mids a bit better whereas I think the paper cone drivers are more crisp all around, but more-so in higher frequencies. With my experience in "dual cone" driver setups, muddiness is not uncommon. But then again, I'm no expert.

That being said, amps are just amps. If it's muddy sound that's the issue, an amp will only amplify said muddy sound. Subwoofers can differentiate and seperate depending on your head unit, but at the end of the day, it really all boils down to the equalization of the sound being transferred, and where it is being transferred to. I'd look into a head unit with a more in depth and complex equalization system. I bought a Kenwood myself. Sounds better than every single car I've been in. Including a 2014 Subaru and 2016 Chrysler 300 with "premium sound". The key was dialing in the equalization settings. That's it.
Good luck man.

Last edited by Boosted_RB25; 04-23-2017 at 10:05 PM. Reason: Extra information.
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