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Old 11-29-2015, 06:34 PM   #1
xtremekustomz
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Default Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure Tutorial

I finished off the taping by masking off all other areas where I didn't want the resin to be. Some resins are thin and will drip. It's easier to take the time to do this step instead of try to clean it up later.



After taping everything off I used some 3m spray glue to put down aluminum foil.



After the foil was glued it was time to apply some mold release (carnuba wax) and start laying layers of fiberglass and resin. I like to either cut of pull apart the fiberglass matt. It makes it easier to work with and won't sag due to the weight of one piece. I think I did 4 layers of matt.



After everything had dried I took the piece out, trimmed it to the size I wanted and cut my side, top and bottom pieces.



I don't have a picture of the whole step here but I cut out some flush mount speaker rings and secured them with wooden dowels and evercoat everglass. I also cut out the plate for the amps to sit behind. I then stretched grille cloth over the entire project using plenty of staples to keep everything tight. Must be pulled tight! You can also use fleece for this.



I think I used 4-5 layers of matt on the front. Once dried it shouldn't flex. If it does they you need to add more. This was after it dried and I used a grinder to knock down high spots and take the gloss off for filler.



I then used Evercoat Everglass for my first coat of filler sanded with a da sander. This is just for rough shaping. After that I used Evercoat Rage Gold filler. 3m Marson Plus or Platinum Plus are great fillers too. I recommend spending the money on the good stuff. Cheap filler doesn't sand well. I shaped everything with 80 grit with sanding blocks by hand. I knocked off the high edges with a da sander with 80 grit before hand sanding.



If you are covering with vinyl or carpet you are ready! If you are painting there are a few more steps. Here I applied some Evercoat Slick Sand. I used 180 grit to smooth it out before applying a 2k primer. Slick sand is a polyester primer used for high build. A must when going for a perfect finish.



After sanding with 500 grit I applied the paint and clear. I then went over the enclosure with some 1500 and 3000 grit wet sandpaper before buffing/polishing. This is the final result.




Last edited by xtremekustomz; 09-16-2017 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:34 AM   #2
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Thank You 1000 x's for re-posting this sticky!

But please, for the love of god, tell me how much resin, mat, and mesh or whatever the other stuff is, that you used to properly coat the back wall to make the back thick enough.

At work,,,,,,we sell 3.5L (I guess it is a Gallon?) cans of bondo brand resin.

And packs of 8 sq ft of mat.

And 8 sq ft of the (fiber?) I guess that's what the carbon fiber looking stuff is called.

The bondo resin comes with (2) tubes of hardener. It is a big can, but I am not sure if it will be enough?
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by IssaNissan View Post
Thank You 1000 x's for re-posting this sticky!

But please, for the love of god, tell me how much resin, mat, and mesh or whatever the other stuff is, that you used to properly coat the back wall to make the back thick enough.

At work,,,,,,we sell 3.5L (I guess it is a Gallon?) cans of bondo brand resin.

And packs of 8 sq ft of mat.

And 8 sq ft of the (fiber?) I guess that's what the carbon fiber looking stuff is called.

The bondo resin comes with (2) tubes of hardener. It is a big can, but I am not sure if it will be enough?
I always use the chopped matt. The weaved stuff is stronger but you can't pull it apart as needed. Shoot for 1/4" thickness. I ordered a big roll of the matt and a 5 gl bucket of resin from uscomposites. I'd think 2 gl should do it. As for the matt.....figure your area. Width x height and multiply that by 4 layers then divide it by 8 (sq ft in a pk). Rough estimate 4 pks for the wall and 4 for the front of the enclosure. The back will be stronger anyway because it is up against a solid structure.

You will use both tubes of hardener with a gallon of bondo. Don't mix too much at a time cause it will start to gel up on you. I probably use a little more than what is given but don't add too much. In colder weather you will want extra but in the summer the extra heat will cause it to harden faster. Also the resin can get really hot and actually burn you if it stays on your skin. Make sure to wear gloves and a respirator. You don't want chemical burn in your throat/lungs or fiberglass fibers.

Just know ahead of time that it isn't a quick and easy job. Otherwise everyone would do it!
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:16 PM   #4
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takes time to get a technique down.
I like using the cheap harbor freight 1" brushes and cutting the bristles to about half the size and dabbing the resin into the mat. the best part is that you throw away the brushes then actually trying to clean because it takes time and acetone. Try and do nice even coats of mat because it will be a lot easier when you go to put filler over it.

Great guide extreme! very useful for the beginners
Wish the old fiberglass forum was still up to find some of those tricks those guys pulled off.
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:19 PM   #5
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have you ever used the SMD sun flash resin? i've seen demos with that stuff and i think i will be using that when i do my fiberglass build.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:49 PM   #6
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have you ever used the SMD sun flash resin? i've seen demos with that stuff and i think i will be using that when i do my fiberglass build.
No I haven't and at $30/qt I won't be lol. I can get a 5 gl bucket or regular resin for $150. I'm usually not in a big rush when I do fiberglass work to start with.
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