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Old 05-21-2013, 05:03 AM   #11
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Once the bolts are removed just pull the pump off the block. The shaft may likely come out with it. It will be rather a long shaft with a gear attached.


Below is a photo of the pump and the shaft separated. The gear is the drive gear that mates with the oil pump drive gear on the crank shaft. We will see that soon.










Below is a photo of the drive shaft itself. This is the end that fits into the base of the distributor and clearly shows that "D" shaped end we observed and marked. . . . . didn't we??







Next remove the crankshaft pulley. That is the large main pulley that drives all the belts. Use the 27mm socket and large breaker bar or long handle ratchet.

I had use of air tools so my impact gun broke it loose easily. You may have to be creative and use a cheater pipe or something.

Whatever you do try not to move the crankshaft. Put the truck back into gear if necessary to keep the engine from spinning. With it in gear, parking brake locked, it should hold still. Once the bolt is out you may have to tap the back side of the pulley lightly with a hammer. I did but it came off easily.

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Old 05-21-2013, 05:06 AM   #12
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Now it is time to start pulling the timing cover bolts so we can get the timing cover removed. They are not all the same length, so again, take note and don't mix them up with other bolts.

Below is a photo showing the frontal view of the entire timing cover. All of those bolts you see must be removed. There are several that have 10mm heads and some that have 12mm heads.

There are several that go through the front of the cover into the block and there are four that go down through the cylinder head and into the top edge of the timing cover.

There are also two bolts at the very bottom edge of the timing cover. One is visible and one is kind of hidden behind where the oil pump was.


NOTE: This photo was taken before I removed the oil pump. Oil pump has to be removed to remove the timing cover.






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Old 05-21-2013, 05:14 AM   #13
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Once you are certain you have removed all of the necessary bolts simply tap the back side of the cover with a hammer or plastic mallet. Tap it at that mounting are for the distributor and it should start to peel away from the block.

Be careful though as you can easily bust this aluminum cover.






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Old 05-21-2013, 05:17 AM   #14
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With the timing cover removed you will now be able to clearly see the timing components.

You will see the chain, both sprockets, tensioner and guides.



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Old 05-21-2013, 05:22 AM   #15
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Lets start removing these components.

First, remove the oil pump drive gear and the oil slinger.


These simply pull off the crankshaft. Just grab them and pull them off. they are keyed with a woodruff key so they only go one one way.

However, it may matter which way they go on, so don't rotate them around backwards. Set them where you can put them back on the way they came off or mark them in some way so you know which way faces out.


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Old 05-21-2013, 05:26 AM   #16
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Next remove the tensioner and chain guides.

These are simply short bolts and use a 10mm socket.

Each guide has two bolts and the tensioner has two as well.




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Old 05-21-2013, 05:37 AM   #17
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With the guides and tensioner removed you can simply and easily lift the chain off of the top sprocket and drop it down through the cylinder head there and take it off the bottom sprocket.

With the chain removed the bottom sprocket will simply slide off the crankshaft. It has a notch at one of the teeth so pay attention to if it is turned inside or outside.









To remove the camshaft sprocket you will need a 19mm wrench. Place a thick screwdriver or other type metal rod through one of the sprocket holes as shown below. This will hold the sprocket from spinning while you break the bolt loose. The sprocket is keyed like the crankshaft sprocket and can only go back one way.

However, it has an inside flange and needs to go on correctly just as it came off.

You do not want the sprocket to spin as this will upset valve timing.


The bolt will come loose turned left. It is "lefty loosey, righty tighty" as they say.







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Old 05-21-2013, 05:48 AM   #18
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You have now removed all of the timing stuff and is time to start cleaning! this will take a while so take a break first.

Clean everything. I mean everything!

Clean and scrape the old gasket material off of every surface of every part you removed. Use some medium grit sandpaper if you have too but get the mating surfaces very clean and dry.


I cleaned every part I took off and prepped them for paint.

Remove the timing cover front seal from the timing cover. It simply taps out from the inside of the cover. Use a round punch or flat screwdriver and simply knock it out of the cover from the inside out.

Once the cover has been cleaned lightly and carefully tap in the new seal from the outside in. use a hammer to gently tap in in place and seat it flush with the cover, no more deeper than flush.


Use some RTV to glue the distributor base gasket to the timing cover. It needs to stay put when you go to install the distributor.








Using a very light smear of gray RTV coat the inside mating surface for the new cover gaskets.

Place the gaskets on the cover and let it sit and dry for fifteen or twenty minutes minimum time. You don't want the gaskets to shift when you go to install it.

Once this is all done set the timing cover aside until it is time to install it.


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Old 05-21-2013, 05:55 AM   #19
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Clean your oil pan real good and use brake cleaner on the inside to get all the crud out.

Clean its gasket mating surface really good and, again lightly, use RTV to glue the gasket to the flange of the oil pan. Once done, set it aside and let it dry.


Do the same with your valve cover. Clean it and install the new gasket. No need for RTV on the valve cover because it has tabs that lock the gasket in place.

Clean the gasket surface on the lower radiator hose water outlet. It too has a gasket so install that using a little RTV. Let it dry.

Clean the block where the timing cover fits. Clean this really well. It needs to be clean and dry of oil and coolant. Make it shine!



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Old 05-21-2013, 06:04 AM   #20
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So you have cleaned everything really good and let it all dry. It is time to start reassembly. It is basically reverse order but I will go through it anyway for good measure.

The timing chain and sprockets are the first things to go back on. Slide the crankshaft gear onto the crankshaft just as you removed it. Line up the key way and shove it on. Pu the camshaft sprocket in place and bolt it down. Use the screwdriver trick again to keep it from spinning the camshaft only use holes on the opposite side of the cam sprocket. "Righty tighty"

Slip the timing chain down through the cylinder head and put it on the bottom sprocket.






There is a gold link on the chain. Line this up with the dot mark on the face of the cam sprocket. It is kind of visible in the photo below. Slip the chain onto the upper sprocket.

Install your chain guides and tensioner. To install the tensioner just insert the spring into the tensioner body, slide the tensioner plunger and compress it into the body of the tensioner. Hold it tight and place it against the block and insert the two bolts. Hand tighten the bolts then you can let the plunger go.









Put the oil pump drive gear and oil slinger in place as they came off. Do not forget this step!!










Now you can install the timing cover.

Place the cover against the block and tap it on. There are locator dowels in a few places so they have to line up. It will pretty much just pop into place. Start putting bolts back in the cover.

Tip:
When installing a bolt, and you are not sure of the right length, put the said bolt in the hole as deep as it will go without threading any threads.

The bolt should bottom out and leave approximately 1/2" of bolt sticking out. It it goes all the way in it is too short. If it sticks out more than 1/2" it is likely too long.




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