Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-21-2013, 02:43 AM   #21
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

Hook up the rubber hoses.
























__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 02:45 AM   #22
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

Hook up the hard line to the new rubber hose.

Make certain the the threads are started correctly. Do not allow then to cross thread or you will ahve a lot of new work to do to fix it. Thread it in slowly and carefully by hand several threads before using a wrench on it to tighten it.

Once threaded in, it needs to be pretty tight as to not leak.


__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 02:48 AM   #23
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

DONE!!

Admire your new big brakes!!





__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 02:57 AM   #24
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

Of course, now we have to fill the master cylinder with fresh new DOT 3 brake fluid, bleed the air from the lines and then do a good bedding process on the new pads.

Remember:

Bleed the air from the passenger side first till no more air spits from the bleeder valve. Then move to the driver side caliper.

Bleed them one more time to ensure no air. Check your brake fluid level in the reservoir.

If all is good its time to bed the pads.



Bedding is the process of seating in the pads to the new rotors. With semi-metallic pads this is even more important to prevent squeal and advanced wear of the rotor. Bedding deposits a layer of pad material to the rotor surface in an even layer. This layer will remain on the rotor surface as protection.

Refer to your brand of pad to see what their bedding process is.

Below is a general bedding process that can work for most all street use semi-metallic pads.

Avoid in town driving until the bedding is done.
Find a stretch of highway where you can reach 60mph safely for a long distance.


Bedding process:


- Accelerate to 60mph

- At speed, apply brakes firmly until vehicle slows to around 10mph.

- Release pedal and do not allow car to come to a complete stop.

- Accelerate to 60mph again and allow rotors to cool for a minute before applying brakes again

- Repeat process 8 to 10 times allowing cooling time in between braking
__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 02:58 AM   #25
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

Torque values are listed in the FSM for some of these bolts but I have not been able to find but a couple. I will edit this when and if I ever figure them out.


Torque specs for metric bolt sizes:

- 6mm x 1.0 = 4.5 ft lb
- 8mm x 1.0 = 12 ft lb
- 8mm x 1.25 = 11 ft lb
- 10mm x 1.0/1.25 = 22 ft lb
- 12mm x 1.25 = 41 ft lb
- 14mm x 1.5 = 65 ft lb





Proper wheel bearing pre-load sequence:

- Tighten pre-load nut to 25 to 29 ft lb.
- Spin rotor both directions several times.
- Tighten pre-load nut again to 25 to 29 ft lb
- Back pre-load nut off 45 degrees
- Install lock and cotter pin
__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd

Last edited by Tally HB; 04-21-2013 at 03:38 AM.
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 03:35 AM   #26
1968f100
 
1968f100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 396
Vehicle: 1990 hardbody-1990 240sx coupe-1995 Zenki-1997 Kouki
Thanks: 122
Thanked 59 Times in 54 Posts
Default

Nice post. Thanks. Even if I never do this I learned a great deal.
__________________

Helping the 16yo out and having some fun along the way.
1968f100 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 04:22 AM   #27
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

This job literally takes only about two hours. It took me longer because of all the photos, keeping things clean and, I didn't realize when I got them, the brake pads they sold me were for the four cylinder. I had to wait a half hour for new pads to be delivered.

Not certain yet just how much improvement there is. I took time to bed them in today and then just came home.
__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2013, 03:43 AM   #28
Tally HB
The Old Guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Florida
Age: 54
Posts: 721
Vehicle: 1989 D21 Base 2WD 2.4L
Thanks: 23
Thanked 93 Times in 78 Posts
Default

Update:

Working very well. I can tell there is a good difference in braking power however, with the type driving I do, I will likely never use them to their potential. Brake pedal is much better though and I like that.

I could have just replaced my style calipers and pads and been good but, why not do the upgrade since its there!
__________________
1989 D21 Standard Cab 4x2
2.4L Z24i, 5spd
Tally HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 11:01 PM   #29
KA24E
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chino Hills
Posts: 91
Vehicle: 1989 Nissan D21 Z24i
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

great write up!! ill wait till my brakes are due to do this upgrade.
KA24E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2013, 02:33 AM   #30
cadillacdude1975
The Gear Jammer
 
cadillacdude1975's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Age: 45
Posts: 7,670
Vehicle: 87 D21 SE KC V6 2wd 5sp & 86.5 V6 SE auto
Thanks: 253
Thanked 816 Times in 759 Posts
Default

i have always seated my pads by going 60 and lightly dragging the brake for a half mile then letting up, going another mile, then repeat. never had a problem.

and if you really want this upgrade to perform, use carbon metallic or ceramic pads. i opted for the ceramic, as my v6 d21 already had the big brakes. the ceramic pads are a monster difference. they are really noticeable in heavy traffic where the brakes might get a little warmer than normal. the hotter the pad gets, the better it grabs.

my next step is to get a set of the slotted and drilled rotors.
cadillacdude1975 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.