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Old 11-09-2017, 08:38 PM   #11
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sounding like it seized, on the bright side I am thinking you have a new boat anchor... all kidding aside, you may want to pull the oil pan and check out the bottom end
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:05 AM   #12
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Had a service call once on a Freightliner with a Series 60 Detroit that the owner said needed a starter. It had actually spun a main bearing. Oil was visually clean. Not sure how it would perform in a lab test, though.

Also, like caddy mentioned, I worked on a Ford Windstar that I thought needed a starter, but the a/c compressor pulley bearing had locked up.

Both of these happened while driving supposedly. You got to get those belts off and exclude the clutch and tranny as a possibility. How did you verify the valves?
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:17 PM   #13
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so I took the bottom end apart today and it turns out that I had spun a crank bearing
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:27 PM   #14
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Would that affect the valves at all? If the crank was not moving, would the timing chain also not move? I'm wondering if valves could have hit the pistons.
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:32 PM   #15
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^ if it had a belt, and it broke, then you have better chance of valves getting to know the pistons.. I have not seen that happen with a chain
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YEPEE View Post
^ if it had a belt, and it broke, then you have better chance of valves getting to know the pistons.. I have not seen that happen with a chain
If a crank bearing spins, though - I don't know what happens. I suppose the crank is still keyed to the timing chain gear. I don't know.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:31 AM   #17
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He has a four-cylinder. I don't know if the 91 runs a belt or a chain, though. My 88 is a chain, of course. I'm surprised the bottom end gave out like that. That's a bit rare for a Nissan, unless you aren't lubing it properly or beating the holy hell out of the motor. Usually you get a top end problem. Doesn't Nissan use a forged crank, rather than a cast crank?

LOL...Nissan bottom ends go out so seldom that I am rather uneducated about fixing them. I've never had one do that, clear back to the days when I was driving those 70's Datsun trucks with the L20B motors. Never a bottom end problem. It was always something up above.

If I were in this position, I would consider just buying a used engine, rather than trying to fix the crank bearing. Maybe an engine with a blown head gasket or...even better...just isn't running but turns over fine without knocking. And make sure you run your finger through the exhaust to make sure there isn't any 'black wet' (oil) there. Black dry carbon is okay. Those bottom ends are so well-designed and built, that your chances of finding one with a GOOD bottom end are PDG. ('pretty damn good') One advantage to all of this is that if you can find a decent used engine without too many miles, when you have both these motors out on the ground, you can switch out parts, maybe overhaul all the gaskets, etc before stuffing your completed motor back in. In the end, you might have yourself a pretty decent engine. It's so much easier to do everything on the ground.

I still miss those old Datsun days. So much fun. So many vehicles. Engine swaps were easy, no one cared if you bypassed emissions, (cause they weren't requiring yearly tests back then) and you could beef them up easy. (Weber carb setup, dump your L16 for the L20B, etc) At the wrecking yards they would pile up the pulled engines in virtual Mountains of Motors. Almost any one you wanted, maybe $25, maybe $50 bucks you haul. You would throw them around the mountain here or there, check the exhaust ports for oil (reject it), turn them over with a wrench, and other stuff to make sure they were still solid, (although it was a crap shoot sometimes) and just have fun with the cherry picker later. (*insert evil laugh here*)
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