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Old 06-17-2016, 05:22 PM   #31
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the progress is looking great... a 110 will suffice just dont short cut anything... I havent had any issues with any of my frames using a 110...
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my babies as follows: 93 longbed D21(gettin a stock floor bd one big wheels)
88 ext cab D21 (currently getting restored and eventually bagged on big wheels too)
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:51 PM   #32
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Well, it's been a while, but unfortunately I haven't gotten much done on Project Rehab lately. It's certainly not for lack of motivation or attention,
just simply a case of not enough time in the day. I was able to get in the garage last night and progressed a little bit on the front suspension again finally.

I made new mounts for the triangulation bushings on the lower control arms since the ones that came with the kit were too short and I cut them even shorter due to my excellent measuring skills...





Got the hole in the cross member all filled in and tacked in the upper bag mount to make sure everything was going to work up front





I'm relatively happy with the way the bag fits in there. I am only running Firestone 2500's up front and even though they are the smallest diameter bags
I would want to run up there, they are still quite close to the frame on full compression. I'm not necessarily happy with the bag being slightly crooked in there, but it lays relatively flat all the way around and expands/ compresses
without coming in contact with any of its surroundings, so it should work just fine.



Now if I could just get myself to order all the parts I need to replace all the suspension components that are worn out,
I'll be all set!


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Old 07-27-2016, 06:39 PM   #33
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I was able to make some upper supports for the bag mount last night using the parts supplied in the kit I got.
The kit came with the generic upper and lower bag mounts as well as generic triangular gussets.





I decided that "generic triangular gussets" wasn't quite the look I was going for, so I stuck em in a vice and smashed them with a hammer for a bit until I was happy with the shape.







The tack welds aren't nearly decent enough to keep welding with the 110 I have at home, so the plan is to get everything
tacked up and where I want it, then drive or trailer the truck to my Dad's shop to burn them in with the 230.
The upper bag mount is certainly something I do not want to worry about, and since the tacks were turning out way too cold even on
the highest settings available on my welder, I figured it would be best to finish the welding with a slightly better squirt gun.



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Old 07-28-2016, 12:55 PM   #34
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i would have beveled the edge of the gusset and top bag plate to get a much better penetration of the two
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:07 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissansxsr20det View Post
i would have beveled the edge of the gusset and top bag plate to get a much better penetration of the two
Yeah, looking back on it, I think I'm going to cut these off real quick, bevel the edges and re-tack it all together. I wasn't thinking about it at the time I guess...
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:14 PM   #36
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Got some real "important" stuff done on Rehab in the past couple weeks. Decided to make the engine bay look a little better and get rid of the multiple colors
and awful paint work that some of the engine parts had on them. I started with the valve cover of course, seeing as it is the first thing that is looked at when the hood is opened.








The valve cover had about 5 coats of paint on it, so I got started stripping it all off with some air craft stripper.

After about an hour of scrubbing, rubbing and sanding, the results were a mostly smooth surface that was perfect for powder coat.



And speaking of powder coat...I was finally able to get my hands on some super chrome powder from Prismatic Powders. I had pretty high hopes for this stuff, and for the most part, it turned out as expected.





The engine bay overall looks way cleaner now. All it needs is a wire cleanup/ tuck and a nice intake to be made for it, and I'd be happy.



The website suggested using a clear powder on top of the chrome to protect it, but when I tried it on one of the pulleys that I also coated, the finish turned out milky and awful looking. So I guess I won't be doing that again...

I also coated the lower control arm, and I love how it turned out. I will be doing the other side as well as the uppers as soon as I get the stupid bushings out of the uppers...




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Old 10-06-2017, 07:01 PM   #37
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Whatever happened with this?

Looks like you were doing a great job rescuing it... Any updates?
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Old 10-21-2017, 02:37 AM   #38
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Still working on it slowly but surely. Lost a lot of motivation to post on here when Photobucket decided to change their policies.
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:05 AM   #39
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It's been a while, but now that Photobucket has relaxed a bit and old images are finally back, I've decided it was time to update the builds on here.

Back on Rehab, it was time to tackle the rear end as much as I could. This may not have been AS bad as the front half of the truck, but never the less, something had to be done about this:







In case it wasn't wildly apparent...yes. That is in fact thin angle iron that makes up the bridge.



I stripped everything off the frame and began to formulate ideas to make it look better back there.



I had a Seamless tank, two 480's and a an Accuair VU2 Manifold with the plug delete mod to work with. I wasn't too sure about the VU2, but I liked the form factor and I liked the way it looked, so I went with it for now.



I moved the tank further in to avoid accidentally dragging it, and I built a quick mount for the tank using the stock holes in the frame where the leaf shackles went since the P/O never cut them off. I decided to float mount the VU2. Digging the overall simple look of it for sure



Slowly but surely getting there...



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Old 08-09-2018, 05:13 PM   #40
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Looking good, man!! Keep it up!
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