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Old 12-31-2017, 11:58 AM   #611
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> Should I paint the hub caps or try to polish out the chromed look on them?

You might be able to source a new set of hub caps for cheap on eBay or some place like that. Nice, new chrome caps for $20? Hell yeah!
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:06 PM   #612
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> Should I paint the hub caps or try to polish out the chromed look on them?

You might be able to source a new set of hub caps for cheap on eBay or some place like that. Nice, new chrome caps for $20? Hell yeah!
try more like 50-100, I'm lucky the centers I have aren't all smashed up. (Yet)
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:38 PM   #613
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Should I paint the hub caps or try to polish out the chromed look on them?
Neither. Sell them on Ebay. You can only use two of them, anyway.
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:48 PM   #614
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The angle on the shocks is about equal to what it was, just angled laterally instead of parallel to the frame.
FWIW, the reason for stock shocks being parallel with the frame, and staggered front and rear, is to help control axle housing rotation.

Teh closer they are to the wheel, the more effective they are at damping. Moving them inward will soften the ride, if I'm not mistaken. If it bounces too much, you might want a stiffer shock to compensate.

Yours may not make enough HP to have axle wrap problems on the street, but in 4LO, with those lift blocks and tall tires, you might get some wrap when crawling. If you do, you can cure that with a traction bar.

The concern with axle wrap for crawling is broken u-joints if the axle housing rotates and puts the u-joints in a bind.
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:55 PM   #615
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Neither. Sell them on Ebay. You can only use two of them, anyway.
I have the two front caps with holes cut in them to fit over the hub, they're factory 1985 wheels after all they started life on a vehicle with manual hubs.

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Originally Posted by Reserector View Post
FWIW, the reason for stock shocks being parallel with the frame, and staggered front and rear, is to help control axle housing rotation.

Teh closer they are to the wheel, the more effective they are at damping. Moving them inward will soften the ride, if I'm not mistaken. If it bounces too much, you might want a stiffer shock to compensate.

Yours may not make enough HP to have axle wrap problems on the street, but in 4LO, with those lift blocks and tall tires, you might get some wrap when crawling. If you do, you can cure that with a traction bar.

The concern with axle wrap for crawling is broken u-joints if the axle housing rotates and puts the u-joints in a bind.
Also shame on you for not already knowing that I have a large ladder bar, . With the stiffness of the f-250 shocks I find them much better in the relocated position than the stock location
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:23 PM   #616
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For shame.
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Old 01-08-2018, 03:07 AM   #617
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Patent pending on a direct swap for our vehicles. within the next few weeks i'll be picking up some Rough Country Jeep XJ 4.5" lift springs.
After some research it seems our trucks have a stock leaf spring length of 47.24"
On Morris4x4 the XJ springs are supposedly 47.5" long, however factory XJ leafs measure 51.5" So I'm sure after some settling the leaves will flatten a touch.

The idea behind this is to offer me multiple softer leaf springs rather than fewer stiff ones, that will hopefully let me remove the 2" lift blocks, give me more flex, a softer ride, and fix that annoying nissan lean. I'll keep y'all updated on this one because it may be a noteworthy swap.
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