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Old 09-26-2019, 02:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Not quite correct on the materials there, SBJ. Iron (steels) tends to hold heat and doesn't readily release it. Aluminum transfers heat readily. In an fully air cooled setup aluminum would be much better at pulling heat from the engine and transferring it into the moving air than steel.
Sorry about that, I guess heat sink isn't really the correct terminology for that. I guess what I was getting at is that I'd rather overheat an iron block engine than an aluminum one lol.

Funny thing, a couple months ago I put a reman head on a shitbox VW bug. Unbeknownst to me it had a blocked return passage in the head (as in no flow back into the coolant bottle through the little return hose). The car lets it get up to about 250F before the idiot light comes on. For comparison the normal range is 195-200. No temp gauge in those of course. That could have gone downhill fast.

Last edited by SBJ; 09-26-2019 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 09-26-2019, 02:52 AM   #22
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I was hoping you hadn't forgotten your heat transfer!



I agree, iron is better if you want to run hot.
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Old 09-26-2019, 03:05 AM   #23
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I was hoping you hadn't forgotten your heat transfer!

I agree, iron is better if you want to run hot.
Long forgotten. Like as soon as I walked out of the classroom after taking the final exam. To be completely honest I didn't do very well in chemistry/physics and there's no way I'd remember any of it now. But I will say that fixing cars has given me a better understanding and appreciation of math than I ever had while I was actually in school.
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Old 09-26-2019, 03:23 AM   #24
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OK, thanks for all the input guys. i guess I'll run it this weekend with the 180, and change the 170F t stat into it next week. I'll report if there are any differences between the two, as far as the guesstimating gauge displays.

i really appreciate the help here ! thanks
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Old 09-26-2019, 03:24 AM   #25
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I didn't do so hot in chem and physics either but I work with heat transfer every day.



I still have math.
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Old 11-13-2019, 08:22 PM   #26
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update guys replaced fan clutch, coolant temp sensor. Removed thermostat and tested normal. did fine over the summer, now I need heat for the winter, im looking at maybe a clogged radiator ? but not sure do to it not looking rusty inside. any other ideas ?
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Old 11-13-2019, 08:42 PM   #27
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Haven't read the whole thread, but if you are running hot one of many things to check is the air flow. Make sure there's nothing blocking air in the grille, and clean the front face of the radiator. Then take a hose and blast from the engine toward grille, or better yet pull the radiator and do that as well as an internal flush.


Radiator cap OK?


Long ago I had a water pump's impeller shear off inside the housing, but no leaks and the shaft/belt were turning fine so was hard to diagnose.
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