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Old 05-08-2014, 01:19 AM   #21
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I would assume that the larger tank could be made to fit on any truck but the short cab short bed. So, long bed and king cab should be good to go. I'm thinking that If you have the long wheelbase frame with factory small tank you could remove the bracket that holds the front of the tank on and bolt the larger tank to the crossmember that has the carrier bearing on it. Im betting its not going to be to much more complicated than that. It doesn't make sense to make two different king cab frames, one for large tank and one for small tank so I bet all long frames have provisions for both tanks.
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:21 AM   #22
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Just thought of something, is the large tank a 4x4 only option? 4x4 does have a different frame...
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:09 AM   #23
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No, I've got it on my 2x4 Long Bed.

Also, I read that it was included on a lot of the extended cab trucks, so your answer in post 21 should be on the money.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:16 AM   #24
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I've just performed this on my 1996 dual cab TD27 Navara 4x4, as part of preparations for a Cape York adventure. You know, middle of nowhere, deadly animals all around, standard aussie holiday stuff.

So a long wheelbase 4x4, should have heaps of room, right?

Here's what I learnt.

Tank was sourced from a 1986 king cab. The king cab was a petrol KA24 4 cylinder manual, not a V6. Odd, but there you go. Aussie models might be different.

The king cab next to it in the wrecking yard did not have the long tank either. I only found one other which had it, and the tank was damaged and the guard non existant. It was this tank or nothing.

The rear mounts are identical. No need to take them, but the wrecker let me have EVERYTHING to do with the tank for $110, so i grabbed em, just in case.

The front mount to the crossmember is essential, and your crossmember should have the bolt holes for it.
Grab the bash plate too. Unless it's going in a 2wd or you are installing custom bisalloy or similar.

Getting acces to the breathers and one of the bash plate bolts is a serious pita. The tank needs to be loose to get between the tank and rails to get at the pcv ball valve connections, sender wiring and access the fuel lines. But if it drops down too far these all get smashed up. Better to drop the tank bolts but leave the filler neck hose on til last.

It is nice if the tank is not half full of juice. Especially if you are doing this alone, on a standard wreckers ground of busted windscreen glass and spiky thistles in 37 degree (100 farenheit) aussie summer heat.

Last edited by Dirty Trix; 01-12-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:34 AM   #25
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For those installing for a petrol, the tank sender unit had the built in header pump. The connection has 4 wires. My diesel one, running a mechanical pump had 2, so I swapped whole sender units. I could have just wired up the two wires, I guess, but I knew my fuel guage works.

The tank is not just longer (by just over a foot or about 320mm) but it is actually slightly taller on the main hump. This showed on the fuel pickup, as the diesel pickup to the small tank presses on the bottom with a spring loaded arrangement that can expand maybe 1/4" (6mm). I did not feel it do so on the big tank, so I suspect the last 1/4" (6mm) or so may not pick up, based on the slightly longer pickup on the petrol one.

Bolting it up was not too bad at home, flat surface (hot concrete driveway and cold amber liquid). Once you get the bash plate off, lower the tank down (gently with a jack or you will break the plastic ball valve) you need to remove the front tank mount that bolts to the chassis rail, bolt up the new mount, half raise that tank (on a jack helps), connect hoses and wires, raise the rest of way.

Bolt back up, through bash plate bracket,dummy fit some front bolts for alignment, tighten rear bolts, remove jack (front will rest on mount), undo front bolts, hook on bash plate and bolt it on to said bracket.

Then tackle the front.

Filler neck and breather, then screw the dodgy plastic cover on.

Fitted a dream. Biggest frustrations are the hoses, and the dodgy plastic cased ball valve.


Thanks for the intel, another 25 litres range is another 200km (120 miles) or so. Essential for the Cape. Will still need a Jerry Can though.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:51 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdswan View Post
so what is the overall length of the bigger tank. that way its just a quick measurement at the j/y
The LONG bash plate is roughly 1290mm mounting hole to mounting hole. About 51".

The SHORT bash plate is 970mm (38") for the same measurements.

The reason i used bash plate length is that's what you will see, rather than the tank itself.
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:46 PM   #27
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Sounds like a lot of work, Aussie.

Too bad you didn't coax a few mates out there with you using the "free beer" lure. They could have helped you pop the bed off of the truck in the yard and work on the top while you were underneath.

Good job! Now you get to drink all the beer.
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:45 PM   #28
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I never knew there was such a thing as a longer tank. Interesting.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:04 PM   #29
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Seems like the biggest problem would be finding the larger tank...

I don't even have a junkyard around here to go inspect. If we could get a few people to collect some of these, I'm sure it would be easy to find people here to buy them. I know I want one.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:11 PM   #30
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Imagine shipping costs.

...or were you going to travel cross-country to pick them up?
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