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Old 06-19-2018, 06:29 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by johnber View Post
oh...if yer not used to a double flare operation the flare might leak also. just buy a line the length you need and bend it.
Are you saying that I should create a new line and affix it to the frame in a custom way with custom bends.....outside of the confines of the brackets that hold that brake line and the fuel lines?
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:32 AM   #12
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My plastic brackets are encapsulated with metal clips that are bolted down with a 10mm hex head bolt. I could get a socket on the one near the actuator....and even after a soak with PB blaster, I still managed to shear it off.
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:11 AM   #13
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Are you saying that I should create a new line and affix it to the frame in a custom way with custom bends.....outside of the confines of the brackets that hold that brake line and the fuel lines?
They sell straight sections of lines in different lengths which have already been flared and have fittings. Measure the length of yours and get the closest one they have to that. Attempt to make it match the bends in yours. If they donít have one that is close enough in length to yours youíll have to cut and reflare one end. It is a better overall fix to replace the entire section of line than to make any splices.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:52 PM   #14
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The first thing I need to do is separate the steel brake line from fitting on the braided line. that fitting, the clip, and the steel piece they are mounted on are all rusted together. Have sprayed with PB several times over 2 days; knocked the clip prongs away from the steel piece with a screwdriver, and also knocked the whole assembly with screwdriver and hammer. Tried to turn the nut on the steel brake line and it is fuzed on there. If I buy one of those mini butane torches, will it apply enough heat to at least allow me to seperate the steel line from the braided line fitting? I definitely have enough room to try and do a double flare coupling....and I want to try that first.
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
They sell straight sections of lines in different lengths which have already been flared and have fittings. Measure the length of yours and get the closest one they have to that. Attempt to make it match the bends in yours. If they donít have one that is close enough in length to yours youíll have to cut and reflare one end. It is a better overall fix to replace the entire section of line than to make any splices.
Unless there is something that I am missing, I see no way to extricate the entire brake line without removing the fuel tank. If I cut the line near where the leak is back by the wheel, I might be able to "pull the bad line toward the actuator and have it slide through the clips, but you could not do that same thing in reverse if the new line was pre-flared." The clips look to be fastened down with a "fold over" metal guard over plastic with a badly rusted hex nut to remove from the metal part of each clip.
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:45 PM   #16
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Worst case you can rip the bolt heads off to get the line out. I had to break a few of mine when doing the power steering hard lines. I just used some universal hose bracket things from Auto Zone and attached them to the frame with self tapping screws. They've been holding fine for about 4 years now.
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Old 06-21-2018, 01:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
They sell straight sections of lines in different lengths which have already been flared and have fittings. Measure the length of yours and get the closest one they have to that. Attempt to make it match the bends in yours. If they donít have one that is close enough in length to yours youíll have to cut and reflare one end. It is a better overall fix to replace the entire section of line than to make any splices.
I see no way of doing this other than removing the fuel tank. Any tips on that would be appreciated. Will it be possible to just lower it with a jack w/o removing fuel lines and other connections in order to get enough clearance to get the brake link off....and on?
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:39 PM   #18
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Just to update....there really is no way to get this line off of the truck without removing the gas tank and the mounting arm for the gas tank. I have done this, but cannot get the brake line separated from braided line. I have PB blasted it and heated with a torch. Used a flare nut wrench too, but the nut is stripped and tomorrow I will try all of this again, but with vice grips. After I took the gas tank mounting arm off, I can see that there is a good amount of rust on one of the fuel lines. Is there a process for splicing a fuel line? Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:59 PM   #19
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OK, so after I removed the fuel tank and extracted the line, I went to NAPA....and my first question was...can I use my flare kit without the part for making the "lip?".....and the guy at the counter said yeah....you don't need to "double flair." Then, an older guy spoke up and said that with brakes, yes, you must always "double flair." He then looked at my brake line and volunteered that they sold a "coupling" that mechanics use legally to "splice" a brake line. If I had been able to ask the right questions at the right time, I could have purchased this $9 item, and a 20 inch piece of brake line and fixed the problem w/o removing the fuel tank.

I'm still glad I did it this way because now I will have the courage to replace the fuel pump when it goes out. If the pics below are accepted, they will show the old bad part of the line encapsulated in the white clip; the package with Gates Part number for the coupling, and the finished splice with the coupling in place!
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:11 PM   #20
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Cadillac Dude...I just noticed that you gave me the correct advice about the brake line coupler and I managed to "avoid" it. Thanks for trying!
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