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-   -   2004 Frontier thread (http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41268)

Cusser 03-09-2018 02:57 AM

2004 Frontier thread
 
Does anybody REALLY know how to remove the entire tailgate latch assembly on a 2004 Frontier? I took off the two 6mm thread nuts (10mm socket) and the two rods, does the assembly then just pry off?
I have the 2004 factory service manual and it's zero help. The lock cylinder seems to be OK, it's just that convoluted linkage that seems to be the hold-up. And very dumb that the tailgate protective cannot be removed unless the tailgate is open, when that is the problem in the first place !

I don't want to have to pull on the two rods to open it every time. Thanks.

Cusser 03-11-2018 12:19 AM

After removing the actuator rods and the two nuts, I just had to tug and pull the assembly rearward. Yes, some of those clip retainers broke, but rubber grommets served me as "push nuts" on reinstallation.

I had to tug at that rear tailgate to pull that away, broke some retainer plastic clips as expected.

The lock cylinder seemed to be OK, it's just that convoluted linkage that seemed to be the hold-up. And it seems like it really needed a little spring to be engineered-in. So I engineered one. And now it works great !!!
http://www.mazdatrucking.com/forum/a...1520710632.jpg

I used rubber grommets as push-nuts to hold the rear panel in place, but the two nuts really hold that in place.

I attached the bottom of the plastic "bedliner" onto the tailgate using two sheet metal screws, so now one could remove that piece and get to the reverse of the tailgate latch if this happens again. Bad latch design - I can somewhat understand that; but covering the access plate with a bedliner piece which "has to be broken" for access - that's ridiculous !!!!

Cusser 09-24-2018 10:58 PM

Tailgate lock still working.


However, the AC stopped working today while driving on the freeway, first symptom was a bad squeal which disappeared when I shut off the AC button. But the belt doesn't feel loose, and no sound when AC is "off", so not sure it's the idler either. Because the AC wasn't cooling after that, the low side line wasn't cool either; compressor center was spinning when AC was on. Busy for a few days, will then throw gauges on it to read pressures, and figure out where to start...always something...4-cylinder, 5-speed, 103K miles

Cusser 09-26-2018 08:45 PM

The good news: the AC idler pulley is fine, the AC clutch is fine, the Gates AC belt is fine.

The bad news is that the compressor is locked up tighter than a drum. This Frontier uses a DKV14C Compressor; and since the condenser is parallel path type, that will need to be replaced too, as any particles from the compressor seize up get trapped in there, essentially impossible to try to flush out that type of condenser. So new compressor, condenser, and drier, and backflush of lines with solvent. Big job.

Cusser 09-29-2018 02:55 AM

Decided to wait a few months before doing this repair, fall is soon here.

alabama_lowlife 09-29-2018 01:03 PM

I had to do the same thing on my 03 V6 frontier. Not too bad of a job. Worst part was the evaporator.

Cusser 09-30-2018 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife (Post 510377)
I had to do the same thing on my 03 V6 frontier. Not too bad of a job. Worst part was the evaporator.


Question: did you need to remove the front grille/stuff to R&R the condenser? I have the 2004 service manual, the AC section says NOTHING about the condenser. But I also have a 1998 Frontier, and its service AC section manual does detail how to remove the condenser, strange.


1. Do you remember what brand of compressor you used???


2. I'm not planning to R&R the evaporator on my 2004. Thanks.

alabama_lowlife 09-30-2018 04:22 PM

It’s been a couple years so I don’t remember if I had to remove the grille to replace the condenser. I would imagine I had to.

I didn’t originally intend to replace my evaporator, however, the expansion valve was seized up onto the evaporator and messed up the evaporator while attempting to replace the expansion valve. In hind sight it would have saved me quite a bit of money to order the evaporator from rockauto when I ordered all the rest of the parts. I had to buy it locally and paid nearly 2x as much as it would have costed from rockauto. They are around $50 from rockauto.

I used a GPD compressor from rockauto.

Cusser 10-01-2018 02:27 PM

I'll be buying compressor and condenser/drier from RockAuto.

Cusser 10-11-2018 05:41 PM

Got the grille and front supports out today, then got the old condenser out (with drier attached). Guess what - thanks to cost savings these days, apparently neither the new condenser or new compressor come with O-rings these days (noticed that when I replaced my 1988 Mazda B2200 compressor about 5 years ago, should've remembered). Of course when I looked through my two boxes of AC tools and parts, I could not find my sandwich bag full of new O-rings, so I'm off to the store.

Anyway, the new condenser did not come with 2 top clips for the high pressure steel line, but I was able to dig those out of the old condenser without breaking them. I used a hot glue gun to stick the bottom insulation from the old condenser to the new condenser.

So I'm off to the store for refrigeration O-rings. I'll need at least 5: two for compressor fittings, two for side of condenser, plus one for the pressure switch which I need to transfer over as well, but that was expected.


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