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-   -   Fusible links (http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35558)

DesertRunner 08-21-2015 01:17 PM

Fusible links
 
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/FI...y_terminal.jpg

Fusible Link: 24022-01G05 ~ $9.00
Fusible Link: 24343 ~ $7.00
Black Connector: 24343

Got around to taking pictures and will take some more as this progresses however I wanted to share what I had so far.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4...ps0urn6hka.jpg

Part number for the fusible links

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4...ps3wzazig3.jpg

The black connector that is attached to the positive batter cable post is 24343.

Edit by jp2code
djs also posted good info on fusible links here:

pics of fusible links and battery cables with part#'s

I started to merge the threads, but that sometimes upsets others.
End Edit

hardbodyhero 08-21-2015 03:46 PM

Very helpful, how much did the cost? Seems like an item to keep in the drawer to me.

DesertRunner 08-21-2015 04:35 PM

24022 ~ $9.00
24343 ~ $7.00

hardbodyhero 08-21-2015 05:03 PM

Not bad, from the dealer none the less?

DesertRunner 08-21-2015 06:33 PM

Yep...Parts guy knew exactly what I was talking about too. I was quite surprised with their service.

jp2code 08-22-2015 10:54 AM

What is the deal with that frayed red wire that still goes to your battery post? Does that go to an aftermarket amp or something?

If you get a chance to get back over to the dealership, you might want to see if they can get you an original style battery post clamp. Notice how the original lets the fusible link connector mount sideways so it isn't sticking up so high.

ahardb0dy 08-22-2015 11:51 PM

could always flip the fusible link on the terminal over so it doesn't stick up, or get a pair of the military style terminals and mount it sideways on the rear bolt,

these terminals are the best !:

http://i61.tinypic.com/65wbxd.jpg

DesertRunner 08-24-2015 04:29 PM

So the red wire with the in-line fuse has replaced a fusible link (black one) that plugs into the other side of the fusible link connector that attaches to the positive battery post. I have it and the part number and will add a picture/part #/cost when I swap it over. If you look at the connector in the picture you'll notice that nothing is plugged in to the bottom half of the connector. This is where that fusible link plugs in. I plan on getting another battery post connector and probably like the one ahardbody has (military style) because Nissan sells the entire positive cable/connector as 1 and its overly expensive for what it is (IMO).

schardbody69 09-28-2015 07:11 PM

What issues would you have if these were going bad? Just curious what to look for

jp2code 09-28-2015 07:30 PM

You could have no issues at all if all of the electronics in your truck are working correctly.

The Factory Service Manuals do not specifically show everything that the fusible links feed to. There are, however, numerous diagrams throughout the Service Manuals that show the fusible links in their diagrams.

Every electronic component that is required by the engine should be protected by a fusible link.

Electronic Fuel Injectors and the ECM are required by the engine, so they are on a fusible link.

Headlights are NOT an engine component, so they get power from the fuse box.

Note: Fusible links typically withstand greater amperages than fuses because they supply the vehicle with current straight from the alternator (think 60A range). Since they withstand more current, they can also be used to supply current to fuse boxes. If the voltage regulator inside your alternator starts to go out, it can send spikes through your vehicle's electrical system that would burn out all of the circuits. Instead, a fusible link burns into and your vehicle runs like crap until you get those replaced.

Want to withstand an EMP blast? Carry an extra set of fusible links in your glove box. Now you are ready for a nuclear holocaust.

hardbodyhero 09-28-2015 10:25 PM

Lol, JP2, I think I may do that now that you said that-

Let me add this, for the guys that tout the quest alternator conversion, do you think there are any adverse affects to the swap. I've heard the jump is +40 amps I believe. (From 60 to 100).

fisk27 05-30-2016 10:29 PM

I have a 1988 Nissan 'Hard Body' pick up, it hasn't been run in 6 months, so I had to replace the battery, but the only sign of life is the door chime, no power, could this be a result of bad fusible links?

Deerhurst 05-30-2016 11:47 PM

Often the fusable link will keep the truck from turning the starter and running.

fisk27 05-31-2016 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deerhurst (Post 457759)
Often the fusable link will keep the truck from turning the starter and running.

Any thoughts as to why the pick up has no electrical power?

cadillacdude1975 05-31-2016 03:00 AM

i would check all the fuses and verify that the 3 main lines at the battery have power through the fuse links.

rare70cat 09-15-2016 12:30 AM

In the 1st picture provided, the black connector, 24343, has two slots for two fusible links. One fusible link is 24022-01G05 that has the four wires. What is the part number for the other/2nd fusible link?Keep in mind for 87-88 z24 truck. Thanks

jp2code 09-15-2016 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rare70cat (Post 463982)
In the 1st picture provided, the black connector, 24343, has two slots for two fusible links. One fusible link is 24022-01G05 that has the four wires. What is the part number for the other/2nd fusible link?Keep in mind for 87-88 z24 truck. Thanks

It should be in the 2nd link. djs posted a lot of good info, too.

Quote:

Edit by jp2code
djs also posted good info on fusible links here:

pics of fusible links and battery cables with part#'s

I started to merge the threads, but that sometimes upsets others.
End Edit

rare70cat 09-15-2016 05:40 AM

That link is for a '95. Notice the so called "brown wires" that are actually pink,in that fusible link there are only 3 wires. Mine has four. Also the picture shows a second link that has two wires mine has 1. NOT the same from '87 to '95! Maybe function but not looks.

rare70cat 09-15-2016 05:47 AM

I believe I found the part # on nissanpartsdeal. I put in my VIN# and found the two fusible links. One part# is definitely 24022-01G05. The second part # is 24022-05E00. We'll see. I'm going to order them and I'll post back.

rare70cat 09-16-2016 07:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
These are the fusible links for '86-'89 hardbody with the Z24 engine. Part # are correct in previous post.

djs 09-17-2016 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp2code (Post 463985)
It should be in the 2nd link. djs posted a lot of good info, too.

I was never able to find the loop fusible link (last pic.) on my 95. Altough the schematics show it, mine does not have it. Iirc, it is only on the pathfinders.

Djpookie 02-22-2017 06:00 AM

I need the black box that the links plug into. Where can I get it? Thanks.

ahardb0dy 02-22-2017 09:34 AM

dealer

djs 02-22-2017 07:55 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is mine out of my 95 2.4 liter. Part # should be B4341-89930

djs 02-22-2017 07:57 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Another angle. Sorry for double post, I can't get multiple pics on one post.

countryjlg72@gmail.com 06-20-2017 08:32 AM

I recently bought an 86 Hardbody D21 that runs but definitely needs work done.
I am eager to improve my mechanical know how but currently am super limited with my knowledge. I want to use this truck as a project to increase my skill set and to teach my five year old son some fundamentals under the hood.

XoXSciFiGuy 06-20-2017 09:02 AM

If you're going to run your own fusible links for a Nissan truck, I suggest using the type that takes the blade fuse inline. Heavy wire, two bare ends. In the middle is a connector that takes blade fuses.

AKtwenty47 06-20-2017 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy (Post 484031)
If you're going to run your own fusible links for a Nissan truck, I suggest using the type that takes the blade fuse inline. Heavy wire, two bare ends. In the middle is a connector that takes blade fuses.

What size theses should we use. And thanks this is a good idea. I can just do this instead of trying to find new ones.

cadillacdude1975 06-21-2017 12:27 AM

id use something close to the same size wire that is pulling the current.

alabama_lowlife 06-21-2017 01:54 AM

You shouldn't replace fusible links with fuses. Although they serve a similar purpose they are not the same. Just order all the new stuff or hit a junkyard.

Knightmare 07-02-2017 12:01 PM

No fusible links
 
Just bought a 86.5 for my son and its full of electrical gremlins. Previous owner took out all the fusible links and straight wired it. I assume it worked for him but a week after buying it the alt. won't charge and none of the warning lights in the dash work when initially turning the key (backlights, clock and speedo work). New alt. does the same thing. I ordered new fusible links yesterday. Also the turn signals don't work. Hazard lights work so I know all the bulbs are good. I replaced the flasher relay just for kicks and the turn signal switch and took the hazard switch apart and cleaned all the contacts. Still no turn signal. :bang: I've been researching this site for weeks but nothing is working. Any help is greatly appreciated

Tropicalcats 01-09-2018 02:43 PM

95 D21 4Cyl Fuseable Link
 
Anybody got the parts number for the fuseable link on. 4cyl 95 D21 ? I thought it was in another post but can’t find it.

YEPEE 01-09-2018 02:48 PM

try 24022-84M60 (3 brn wire) 24022-01G00 (1 blk, 1 grn wire) your truck uses both...

Tropicalcats 01-09-2018 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YEPEE (Post 496043)
try 24022-84M60 (3 brn wire) 24022-01G00 (1 blk, 1 grn wire) your truck uses both...

Great thanks

louielace69 11-14-2018 11:17 PM

Would running the battery straightwired & not having fusible links cause Knightmare's light issue above?
I don't have fusible links & none of my lights work & I have a new lightswitch in?
Thanks

jp2code 11-15-2018 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louielace69 (Post 512422)
Would running the battery straightwired & not having fusible links cause Knightmare's light issue above?
I don't have fusible links & none of my lights work & I have a new lightswitch in?
Thanks

Straight wire could have burned out relays when his alternator was messing up.

You can't ever say for sure with electrical surges what is going to go out.

alabama_lowlife 11-15-2018 12:46 AM

Yeah, there’s no way to know what’s going on when there is modified wiring. Start looking for power at the switch and work your way back to the battery.

Vendance 05-19-2019 11:57 AM

So can I just make a real quick fusible link with wires and blade connectors till I can get a real set?

alabama_lowlife 05-19-2019 12:16 PM

Fusible links aren’t standard wire. Doing this with regular wire would allow you to get around blown fusible links but would be similar to installing a penny in place of a fuse. It completes the circuit but does not protect the wiring from fire.

Vendance 05-19-2019 03:31 PM

Junkyard is closed for today, it'll only be till I can get a new set. Think itll be ok till then?

jstck 05-23-2019 01:11 PM

I posted this question in the Electrics/wiring thread, but I'll try here as this thread seems at least as relevant.

I have burned the fusible link in my 1990 D21 (which originally had a carbureted Z24). It looks like some of the earlier posted pictures, with a single female spade connector in one end (at battery), and two male ones connecting to the wiring harness, both with plastic housings. It has one black and one blue cable on it, and I blew the blue one (black is still intact). Some pictures of 24022-01G00 look just like it.

The short was caused at the ignition key, where +12V was shorted to ground when a cable came loose. That has been fixed and secured better, so I'm good there. However, I am unable to find the correct fusible link locally (Sweden), Nissan says they don't have any, and shipping from abroad gets relatively expensive for a small simple part like that.

I'm perfectly willing to replace fusible links with regular fuses though, wiring wise it's pretty straightforward and not my first rodeo. I know people say "they're not the same thing" (and they are not quite), but with the proper fuse rating it will do the job well enough in protecting cabling from short circuits and keeping my truck from not being on fire.

I have never found a wiring diagram that matches my truck completely (it's an anachronistic very late carbed Z24 due to Sweden being later with emissions restrictions) and some things seem to be just "different". So, while I'm unable to tell exactly which power cable goes where from the fusible link, the blue one leading to the ignition key +12V would match observations. Nowhere are there any current ratings for the fusible link though.

Right now I just jury-rigged the fusible link by replacing the blue wire with a 30A fuse just to be able to move it, as it just seemed reasonable given the wire sizes and what it appeared to be powering (and it starts and runs and hasn't blown yet). If I can't acquire a new fusible link I want to replace it with fuses, probably the bolt-in "midi" kind. What rating should I have for such fuses? Judging from the diameter of the fusible links, it seems like the blue one could be similar enough to a 20-30A fuse, and the black one maybe 40-50A, but I'd like to have a guess that is a bit more qualified than that.

If it comes to that, I'll just stick the fusible link in line with a smaller fuse, short a starter battery, increase the fuse current rating until the fusible link wire blows before the fuse, and pick the largest fuse below that. Almost like science.

jp2code 05-23-2019 01:45 PM

The short answer from me is, I think the fusible links are color coded. So if you can find fusible link wire of the same color, it should have the same ratings as the fusible link wire you burned out. I'm not 100% on that though.

jstck 05-24-2019 06:16 AM

Yeah, I've seen a couple web pages suggesting that, and the thickness seems it might match those listed (blue is said to be 0.8mm^2 / 18aw, black 1.0mm^2 / 16awg). There are however a few different colours used for the same Nissan spare part which makes me think they maybe just abandoned that colour-coding scheme later or something. Even then, there are no current ratings anywhere, just "use this fusible link wire for that other wiring".

ahardb0dy 05-24-2019 01:44 PM

are there any junkyards around you? Possibly could get one from another Nissan. I'm sure different cars used the same part.

jstck 05-25-2019 05:47 AM

There are precious few "pick-and-pull" junkyards still around in Sweden, and the D21 is not a very common vehicle. There are junkyard parts available for it, but there's a certain set of parts all the junkyards decide to keep and the fusible link isn't one of those.
I could go look for other random Nissans, but there is very little of similar age around anymore. It seems Nissan, like pretty much everyone else, switched to the "big fuse-looking plastic unit" style shortly after.

I'll keep looking, and maybe try some other Nissan dealers (I suspect my local one is particularly useless) or possibly have a friend in the US buy one and mail it to me. The truck hasn't blown the fuse I put in nor caught fire yet, so it may not be that urgent.

I am still however considering just replacing the fusible links with regular slow-blow fuses. I already have an extra fuse wired straight from the battery to power all the things I added when I swapped the engine and could just build something a bit nicer-looking with 3-4 big fuses (replacing the two fusible links + the "new stuff main fuse" + maybe one for future expansion). I just like having something that is totally under my control when it comes to maintaining it, and even if it won't have the exact same characteristics as the fusible links, I'll settle for "close enough".

PoodlePuncher 03-31-2020 03:37 PM

Chiming in, because in all the fusible link threads, i haven't seen it mentioned.

Fusible links are regular wire, just 4 or 5 gauges smaller than the wires they are protecting, because the smaller wire will burn up before the larger one.


Other than following an established color code, what makes "fusible wire" special is that the outer coating will not catch fire.


While it is possible to buy rolls of the "proper" stuff... for our application, it's not really feasible to make your own, unless you also have the correct terminals to crimp on the ends.

not to mention the proper (i.e. expensive) crimper for that specific terminal.


i learned all about this topic, back in the day, thanks to my 82 RX7. it was down for almost a year, because i couldn't find the "special wire" that i needed.

turned out, the easily sourced fusible link cartridges fit in place of the wire loop.


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