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-   -   ECU / Check engine light - Diagnostic Codes (http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20905)

RedAggie03 04-05-2012 03:00 PM

ECU / Check engine light - Diagnostic Codes
 
KA24E Codes:
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
12 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit
21 Ignition Signal Missing in Primary Coil
31 Engine Control Unit (ECU)
33 Oxygen Sensor Circuit
41 Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
43 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
55 No Malfunctions

Complete list of Codes for other models:
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
22 Fuel Pump
23 Idle Switch
24 Throttle Valve Switch
25 Idle Speed Control Valve
28 Cooling Fan Circuit
31 ECU
32 EGR Function
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
34 Knock Sensor
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer
37 Knock Sensor
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2)
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor
51 Injector Circuit
53 Oxygen Sensor
54 A/T Control
55 No Malfunction
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire
71 Random Misfire
72 TWC Function right hand bank
73 TWC Function right hand bank
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank
94 TCC Solenoid Valve
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

jr. 04-27-2012 12:36 PM

this tells how to pull the codes.

How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and hardbody pickups:

The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The early VG30E and VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task.

Pictures: This is the ECU from my very dirty (and wrecked) 89 VG30i Pathfinder. VG30E ECU's have a slotted round switch in the same place as the toggle switch.

Seat removed; ECU in place on the floor with cover. The cover has ONE screw holding it down. Remove that and the cover will pull off.


Diagnostic selector switch with switch cover removed and set on top of the ECU.


This is where the LED lights are visible on top of the ECU.


For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

gohard 12-15-2012 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr. (Post 274569)
this tells how to pull the codes.

How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and hardbody pickups:

The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The early VG30E and VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task.

Pictures: This is the ECU from my very dirty (and wrecked) 89 VG30i Pathfinder. VG30E ECU's have a slotted round switch in the same place as the toggle switch.

Seat removed; ECU in place on the floor with cover. The cover has ONE screw holding it down. Remove that and the cover will pull off.


Diagnostic selector switch with switch cover removed and set on top of the ECU.


This is where the LED lights are visible on top of the ECU.


For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

so i have an 87 hardbody 2wd napz motor and my ecu has the toggle switch dose that mean im running the v6 ecu

wonderboy 01-13-2013 04:57 PM

Help me out im lost. I pulled the seat. I have to keep it 'diagnostic to get any flashes. These show, these are long 1 then 2. Fast is 3 , then 4 then 5.
I thought long was first digit of the code. Is it telling me i have 2 codes?

david29 01-13-2013 05:31 PM

^^^when you get to the correct number of the diagnostics, then turn the knob back to the other direction to get the actual codes. If you get 5 flashes, pause then 5 flashes, that indicates not codes. If you get one(or whatever the number comes of) flash, pause then a another number, that is your code.

wonderboy 01-13-2013 07:41 PM

Thanks david.

Vic3tor 01-18-2013 03:48 AM

if u buy that thick bookvthat tells u everyrhing about the book i think they r like 30 bucks or somethong but if u go to the exhaust and emissions chapter it shows way more codes.

tox.sick 04-25-2013 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wonderboy (Post 317904)
Help me out im lost. I pulled the seat. I have to keep it 'diagnostic to get any flashes. These show, these are long 1 then 2. Fast is 3 , then 4 then 5.
I thought long was first digit of the code. Is it telling me i have 2 codes?

My truck does the same thing...I turn it back and the light stays off

nissanguy1 06-23-2013 04:01 AM

having trouble and dont know where to start
 
Ok let me start off by telling you what I have, 1994 d21 hardbody. V6 3.0l 152, xxx miles.
This is the first nissan truck ive ever owned, ive always had toyota trucks. Ive always fixed my vehicles, but this truck is giving me a run for my money. I picked it up for a cheap price due to it having a studder/hesitation/skip whatever you wanna call it. It only does this at 1600 to 2200 rpms, I thought I could fix it, new plugs, wires, cap, rotar, fuel pump, filter, belts. Etc it immediately started running better but still does that studder at those rpms. Other than that it drives great, last night I was going down the road doing 60mph and out of nowhere the truck instantly dies. I pull over try to start and it wont crank. I get it home today and mess with it, it turns over, no lack of battery power, it just turns over and over but no crank, I put a new coil pack on it thinking I wasnt getting fire but still the same problem, anybody got a idea what to try or test or anything lol???

Static808 08-28-2013 08:19 PM

My truck doesnt habe a check engine light do i just follow the leds


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