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View Full Version : Project: Insane hardbody


5starMetalworks
12-14-2009, 01:52 AM
This will probably be a pretty slow project. Between building this i have a sfbd s10 on 20s to build, a 28 model A to chop and channel, a 79 ford cab to restore, And several other things going on. So i'll update this as i make headway. right now Ive had time to put a few hours into the hardbody.

Plans:

Bumper to bumper SFBD on 22s, IFS based on stock nissan geometry.
mustang 2 power rack & pinion
Tubular uppers and lowers
toyota 5 lug swap up front, 300zx IRS out back
Going to try to make 300zx 13" rotors and 4 piston calipers work up front
Hard line all the air lines
240sx intake swap
Rebuild and turbo the ka24e
4x4 bed with some sheet metal work
And possibly a custom sheet metal dash and console.

so heres the truck:

93 hardbody. I got it for free. was going to backhalf it, Then that turned into a SFBD due to rot, Then after pulling the cab and motor i realized the front clip was a little more rotted than i liked.

The cab is mint tho. Doors are good, hood, front fenders, Grill and bumper are good. The interior is actually pretty clean, Core support was rotted, the rear bags and 4 link are salvagable. one of the front bags is cut, Dont know about the other yet. Just about the entire chassis is junk. The bed is pretty hit as well, And the trans is blown.

Here it is as i got it: (sorry about pic quality, Iphone camera sucks)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0119-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0120-1.jpg

Everything stripped (almost):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0152-2.jpg


Upper control arm jig:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-1-8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-15.jpg


And started work on the front clip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0208-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-2-7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-4-4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0236-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0240.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0238-1.jpg

And thats as it sits right now. I need to go pick up some more metal this week so i can build a jig to keep everything in line for building the front suspension. I also need to order the balljoints, cups and bushings to build the control arms.

jimmy726
12-14-2009, 02:11 AM
thank you god your building fucking upper arm instead of rigging bullshit up and flipping your arms

Brad Sims
12-14-2009, 02:41 AM
x2 on that and this is gonna be a sick build,i can tell lol

pugz
12-14-2009, 02:50 AM
looks damn good.

5starMetalworks
12-14-2009, 02:53 AM
thanks guys. Yea i have my pet peeves with things. One is if your going to spend time building a sfbd frame, the least you can do is clean up the front suspension a little bit. Stock arms look like ass. As you can see in the pic i trimmed the lip, i was going to try boxing them, to see if there was any way to make them look good, But its just not possible. And for all the work of boxing them, Its honestly easier to make a jig and build your own arms. they are simple enough to make for this truck. I actually might make a new jig, or at least modify that one, Because i am going to probably run a mustang 2 screw in balljoint instead of the bolt on style, Because they are cheaper, Look better, And fit perfectly with toyota spindles. So i'll need to modify the jig to hold the balljoint sleeve in place.

drginazzhb92
12-14-2009, 03:23 AM
looks like a good start man

97redhardbody
12-14-2009, 03:28 AM
nice welds bro, keep up the good work!!

5starMetalworks
12-14-2009, 03:47 AM
thanks guys! i appreciate the kind words.

kcautoworx.com
12-14-2009, 04:02 AM
nice work so far!

93d21joe
12-14-2009, 04:09 AM
Those welds are amazing looking. He's a good guy to, let me pick his brain for about an hour.

xgolferdude
12-14-2009, 04:15 AM
i love those wheels! are they 6 lug and you wanna sell em! very ol school... pm if your interested in gettin rid of em

sparkinframe
12-14-2009, 04:19 AM
nice start. going to b e something special.

5starMetalworks
12-14-2009, 04:29 AM
Thanks guys

Was good chattin with you joe.

xgolferdude - The wheels are 6 lug. But one of them is SHOT.. its all curbed up and looks to be bent. Im not sure if a rim shop could fix them or not. the other 3 look ok, But then again, ive never really paid close attention to them. But i know for sure one of them is thrashed. If i did sell them, it probably wouldnt be until i get the 22s for it, Or at least until i am done building the new frame. I am using the old chassis for measurements and what not. When i finish the new frame, the old chassis is getting cut up and scrapped, So at that point i will have no use for the wheels. but im not sure when that will be. probly not any time soon.

sparkinframe
12-14-2009, 04:31 AM
i dono about in the states, but in vancouver there is a place called greens that can fix any rim, no matter how bent.

5starMetalworks
12-14-2009, 05:26 AM
Yeah i have seen plenty of rim shops around. Ive never taken one in to get fixed tho. so i have no idea how they go about doing it, or whatever.

shavedmax
12-14-2009, 01:03 PM
looking good so far

styl2hy04
12-14-2009, 01:13 PM
thats nice looks good man

Ven
12-14-2009, 03:47 PM
Looking good, cant wait to see this progress!

chadcrissdesign
12-15-2009, 02:23 AM
This will probably be a pretty slow project. Between building this i have a sfbd s10 on 20s to build, a 28 model A to chop and channel, a 79 ford cab to restore, And several other things going on. So i'll update this as i make headway. right now Ive had time to put a few hours into the hardbody.

Plans:

Bumper to bumper SFBD on 22s, IFS based on stock nissan geometry.
mustang 2 power rack & pinion
Tubular uppers and lowers
toyota 5 lug swap up front, 300zx IRS out back
Going to try to make 300zx 13" rotors and 4 piston calipers work up front
Hard line all the air lines
240sx intake swap
Rebuild and turbo the ka24e
4x4 bed with some sheet metal work
And possibly a custom sheet metal dash and console.

so heres the truck:

93 hardbody. I got it for free. was going to backhalf it, Then that turned into a SFBD due to rot, Then after pulling the cab and motor i realized the front clip was a little more rotted than i liked.

The cab is mint tho. Doors are good, hood, front fenders, Grill and bumper are good. The interior is actually pretty clean, Core support was rotted, the rear bags and 4 link are salvagable. one of the front bags is cut, Dont know about the other yet. Just about the entire chassis is junk. The bed is pretty hit as well, And the trans is blown.

Here it is as i got it: (sorry about pic quality, Iphone camera sucks)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0119-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0120-1.jpg

Everything stripped (almost):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0152-2.jpg


Upper control arm jig:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-1-8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-15.jpg


And started work on the front clip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0208-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-2-7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/09-4-4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0236-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0240.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0238-1.jpg

And thats as it sits right now. I need to go pick up some more metal this week so i can build a jig to keep everything in line for building the front suspension. I also need to order the balljoints, cups and bushings to build the control arms.


more pix plz! i love this sh!t.:nana1:

5starMetalworks
12-15-2009, 04:40 AM
Not really much else to show pics of right now. today all i really did was clean it up with a flap disc, And tape off the frame rails, so i can start marking out the mounting points for the upper control arms. I need to take the front suspension off the stock chassis now so i can take some measurements of the stock mounting points. I am looking for a rear end if anyone knows of any. Preferably a 300zx rear, but a 240 will work, as long as i can find some 5 lug hubs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0242.jpg

1sad521project
12-15-2009, 04:54 AM
ive heard of fitment issues with the 300 and 240 rearends in the trucks. but if you have access to shortened shafts then lets see it!:nana2:

lookin good so far:thumb:

sparkinframe
12-15-2009, 04:56 AM
the pathy is disk and lsd. i believe their about the same length too.

5starMetalworks
12-15-2009, 05:11 AM
hmm. i do know a guy who has a 240 rear on a frontier, and has all kinds of problems with his axle angles. so maybe a nissan irs isnt the way to go. I did find a supercoupe rear for $200. But i'd hve to convert it to 5x114.3. I'm going to check it out and see if it will fit properly.

1sad521project
12-16-2009, 12:41 AM
are the old Z cars not so wide? 280 260 240Z?

5starMetalworks
12-16-2009, 04:29 AM
Not sure on the width. I do know they are 4 lug tho. i checked on a 280z rear last night. I think i am going to scrap the IRS idea for now. Maybe in a year or two, i'll Have the time and money to do it. but it seems like no matter what route i go, there are going to be some issues that im going to have to work around, weather it be geometry and CV angles, or having to convert hubs and what not to get the right lug pattern. My friend has a toyota 5 lug rear he will sell me for like $50. so im going to just do that for now. Keep things simple for now so i dont get overwhelmed and lose interest.

5starMetalworks
12-16-2009, 05:21 AM
picked up some more tubing today. got 24ft of 3x2. i was a little bummed tho because they didnt have 3/16" wall. All they had was 1/8, or 1/4"... 1/8 is obviously too thin, so i got the 1/4 wall, Just sucks because now the corner radius is larger on the 1/4 than the 3/16". But oh well. more metal isnt a bad thing i guess.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0244.jpg

Cut said tubing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0245.jpg

Grind and bevel said cuts:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0251-2.jpg


And Frame rails are built. Not welded to the front clip yet, I have to make the miter cuts on the clip to join it to the rails.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0252-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0256-1.jpg


And i made the rear section of the backhalf. behind the notches. And that was the good majority of the 24' length of tubing. I need to get some more tubing to make the notches.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/sjm98126/IMG_0255-1.jpg

DAZE752
12-16-2009, 05:30 AM
why is 1/8 to thin thats what im going to make my frame out of like ICE said mini truckers always use more then needed but then again it is all personal preference
looks good tho

1sad521project
12-16-2009, 05:36 AM
1st gen supra? an mr2 would be 4 lug eh? i know how ya feel on the IRS. i want one bad in my lil 521 but money and time become big players when building that kinda frame. i jus want somebody to do it! im ready for some IRS in a HB:thumb:

5starMetalworks
12-16-2009, 06:41 AM
why is 1/8 to thin thats what im going to make my frame out of like ICE said mini truckers always use more then needed but then again it is all personal preference
looks good tho

the factory frame is 1/8" but its like 4"+ tall (i think its around 5" under the cab), and about 2" give or take wide. When you take off 1"+ of height you are going to loose rigidity.. It would probably hold together fine, But it would flex more than a thicker rail. I want my frame to be as stiff as possible. I still may change my mind on what motor goes in the truck. i have a 500ci cadillac motor/trans sitting in the corner doing nothing. Theres a good chance i might say fuck it and throw that under the hood. If thats the case i want to have every bit of thickness and strength on the frame that i can get. 550 ft lbs of torque can mangle a frame up pretty quick

Mindliss Metalfab
12-16-2009, 02:27 PM
Looks good. Just a trick that might help you out to avoid using little pieces of frame section in your transitions since you have a nice bandsaw. If you use a digital angle finder you can angle the tubing in the saw (dont have it sit flat on the vice table) and do a compound mitre cut. Would have allowed you to make that horizontal and vertical transition in one piece. One of the benefits of having a good size band saw.

LONCOME
12-16-2009, 02:39 PM
Yeah i have seen plenty of rim shops around. Ive never taken one in to get fixed tho. so i have no idea how they go about doing it, or whatever.
if anyone is interested in getting wheels fixed in Oklahome Wheel works of OKC does some KILLER work i have seen rims bent all to hell and them make it look brand new so i am sure they can fix some little curbed up marks on a wheel , and this is a build i am gonna keep an eye on :thumb: lookin good so far man !

5starMetalworks
12-16-2009, 05:34 PM
Looks good. Just a trick that might help you out to avoid using little pieces of frame section in your transitions since you have a nice bandsaw. If you use a digital angle finder you can angle the tubing in the saw (dont have it sit flat on the vice table) and do a compound mitre cut. Would have allowed you to make that horizontal and vertical transition in one piece. One of the benefits of having a good size band saw.


Yeah i have a compound mitre saw too. The last sfbd frame i built i made the transition into the stock front clip with a compound miter like that. Not sure why but there was something about it i just didnt like. Never thought about angling the matieral in the bandsaw tho. thanks for the tip. Would probably work better than my miter saw, the cuts are always that accurate in it.

xgolferdude
12-16-2009, 08:39 PM
As far as the irs go with the supercoupe or mark8... Its a true upper and lower aarm set up and for the bolt pattern its like 50 bucks to get em drilled out... you would have to due a completly custom set up but looking at your work thats something you can tackle... I think the tbird is like 62 inches or something... Its been a while ... Good luck with the build it looks great so far!

manic_mechanic
12-16-2009, 08:43 PM
sweet lloking so far. more pics....

Brad Sims
12-16-2009, 09:24 PM
nice thats gonna be a nice frame

mini702
12-16-2009, 11:18 PM
5 lug on the 240sx is easy, but it's 2" wider than stock. The z32 is a little over 4" wider. I think the t-bird/mk8 stuff is 5 lug 4.5" and fairly simple to mount.

I started with a wrecked J30 so all I needed was the s13 subframe and 2 axles.

5starMetalworks
12-16-2009, 11:59 PM
As far as the irs go with the supercoupe or mark8... Its a true upper and lower aarm set up and for the bolt pattern its like 50 bucks to get em drilled out... you would have to due a completly custom set up but looking at your work thats something you can tackle... I think the tbird is like 62 inches or something... Its been a while ... Good luck with the build it looks great so far!

hmm now you got me thinking again lol. supercoupe is has an 8.8" ford center section as well, so it should handle some decent torque. we'll see. I have to get some $$ together to pick up some more tubing, So theres still room for change. There are a few SC rear ends showing in junkyards in the 200-$250 range. So maybe ill scoop one up before i get the rest of my tubing for the notches.

nisrod
12-17-2009, 01:18 AM
twisted minis told me the thundebirds are 5 x 108mm and are very exspensive to change,,,,,,$50 isnt very exspensive to me!!!

5starMetalworks
12-17-2009, 02:19 AM
I was reading all you have to do is get 99-04 mustang cobra rear hubs, and they slip right on. And i happend to find a set of 99 cobra hubs on ebay for $150. If thats the case, i should be good to go. I just talked to a buddy of mine, who has 2 cougar xr7 rears laying around, Which is apparantly the same thing. He said he'll give me one for $100. And he said he might have some extra cobra hubs lyin around as well.

$krap_IN_flesh
12-17-2009, 02:28 AM
toyota cressida is 62 inches i believe maybe 63 and 5 x 4.5 lug pattern

lil_redd_again
12-17-2009, 09:32 AM
the welds! the Welds! Sweet work man, you burn it in nice!

nisrod
12-19-2009, 08:54 PM
I was reading all you have to do is get 99-04 mustang cobra rear hubs, and they slip right on. And i happend to find a set of 99 cobra hubs on ebay for $150. If thats the case, i should be good to go. I just talked to a buddy of mine, who has 2 cougar xr7 rears laying around, Which is apparantly the same thing. He said he'll give me one for $100. And he said he might have some extra cobra hubs lyin around as well.
you may be on to something,,,let me know be fore my free thunderchicken goes to the scrapper!!!

1lownismo
12-20-2009, 03:09 AM
i saw dsm (talon,eclipse) rears may work....a few years back there was a mazda for sale with that rear it looked like it worked nice

5starMetalworks
12-20-2009, 11:40 PM
you may be on to something,,,let me know be fore my free thunderchicken goes to the scrapper!!!

When i get back on the truck i'll let you know. Working on some customer projects at the moment. so it will be a couple weeks before i can sink any real time into the truck

xmb63
12-21-2009, 02:08 AM
Sweet build I seen it over on the s10 forum.

trips
12-21-2009, 05:25 PM
ive been looking into setting up a tbird rear into my friends mighty max and i found this site http://team321.com/truckirs/truckirs.html... looks extremely simple and from what ive heard there's no toe in through the suspension travel, very little camber and they're one of the easiest to narrow

5starMetalworks
12-22-2009, 03:41 AM
ive been looking into setting up a tbird rear into my friends mighty max and i found this site http://team321.com/truckirs/truckirs.html... looks extremely simple and from what ive heard there's no toe in through the suspension travel, very little camber and they're one of the easiest to narrow

Yeah From what im hearing the t-bird/cougar/mark 8 rears are probably my best bet. i stumbled upon that link a few days ago somehow. When i go pick up the rear this weekend i will start to look into how im going to do it. I have seen a couple IRS'd minis that use a complete subframe drop off of whatever car they got the rear from. And i think its harder to make it look clean. When i can get the rear in front of me and see exactly where the mounting points are going to be and what not, i'll have a better idea of how im going to do it, Im not really wanting to run the stock subframe off the xr7. If i can figure out a clean looking way to mount my upper and lower control arms, I think ill go that route. If not, maybe i'll modify the subframe to neaten it up, Or maybe ill just build a new one all together. All depends on how its going to look. Might not be for a while tho, As i decided its time to build a frame jig/table. So thats going to eat up some time and money. My current work table is warped beyond repair from years of being welded, ground and hammered on. , and i figure i can build the jig, use it for the frame, then when im done put some 1/4" plate on the top, and use it as a general fixturing table for any other work i may need to do. So i'll be ordering the tubing for that in the next week or 2 hopefully.

xgolferdude
12-23-2009, 12:32 AM
Yea I used to work for them... that set up isnt designed for significant travel though.. But im tellin ya the mark 8 is the best of the bunch.. 8.8 inch disk brakes, aluminum pumpkin, and typically there a little nicer shape... mostly old people drove those cars, where as the supercoupe sometimes has the shittty 7.5 rear end, and drums... typically they get ragged out... Thats just from my experience anyways! lol good luck with the build cant wait to see it!

fku8trs
01-15-2010, 03:06 AM
i have a mazda rx7 irs in my hb on doors

sunsetjesse
01-15-2010, 06:00 AM
nice work bro yea the guy i got my hardbody from didnt modify the upper a arms and infact blew the front bags one day on my way to work.

chadcrissdesign
09-12-2010, 04:35 AM
updates???

Lowlyfe
09-12-2010, 07:44 PM
I have been playin around with the IRS on my Tbird for the past year, i will clear up some info for you guys.
They are infact 5x5 1/4" - 5x108 bolt pattern. If you decide to get the IRS from one of these cars the tbird 89 til 97 were identical, some had smaller pumpkins but most are 8.8's and gear swaps are readily available, and some had disc brakes, some didnt - (if you cant find the spindles with the disc brakes option, you can still use the spindles with the drum brakes and just drill them out and mount a set of calipers FYI.)
The cougars of the same generation were all the same as well.
As well as the marks, though only the marks came with aluminum LCA's and pumpkins which is really only good for weight loss.

If you wanted to you could just mount the entire rear IRS with the factory subframe to keep all of the suspensions geometry intact but like you had mentioned it would look a whole lot nicer to just build your own mounts into your rear clip.
You would want to scrap the stock UCA's from any of these rears and build new ones with 4link bushings and some tubing, a very easy job for anyone with fabbing skills.
The stock arms are designed like a half moon to clear the frames on these cars and are too short creating alot of Neg. camber when layed out.
I'd also suggest fabbing new LCA's the same way as the UCA's cause the stock arms are huge and unnecissary, especially on a mini truck with people paying attention to suspension setups.

Im layed on 255/30/20's with the stock subframe on the car with the axle shafts bound, could lay even more if i were to raise the subframe... atleast an inch im assuming.

wildbill89hardbody
09-17-2010, 12:26 AM
dude that is one of the sickest frames ive seen, beautiful welds keep us posted