Short Shocks for Hardbodies

[SkinnyG]

I wrote this using Monroe numbers only, since that is what I have numbers for. Comparable shocks from different manufacturers ~should~ be the same, but no guarantee.

****************************** FRONTS ******************************

STOCK: D21 2WD OEM


Monroe Monro-Matic: #32113 - 8.875" compressed
Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37077 - 8.875" compressed
Monroe Reflex Truck: #911077 - 8.750" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/d21-2wd.jpg
2WD front

SHORTER: D21 4WD OEM


Monroe Monro-Matic: #32206 - 8.375" compressed
Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37047 - 8.125" compressed
Monroe Reflex Truck: #911047 - 8.125" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/d21-4wd.jpg
4WD front

The 4WD shock has a free length that fits really well in the 2wd.

SHORTERER: 71-80 Ford Pinto OEM


Monroe Monro-Matic: #32118 - 8.375" compressed.
Gabriel Guardian: #82128 - 8.19" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/pintoshock.jpg
Pinto front

The Pinto shock requires swapping eye bushings or cutting/re-drilling the Pinto eye. It is a common shock people use, and comes with its own built-in bump stop. You should remove the Nissan bumpstop when using these shocks.

The 4WD shock has a shorter compressed length than the Pinto shock, but would require correct sizing of a replacement bumpstop to work correctly. Theoretically a rubber stud-mount shock bushing could be slipped over the shaft and used as a bump stop.

SHORTEST: 70-80's Chrysler Cordoba, Imperial, etc....


Monroe Monro-Matic: #31176 - 7.125" compressed. Requires modification to control arm to fit.
Gabriel Ultra: #69704 - 7.06" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/hardbodyshockfront.jpg
Chrysler Cordoba front

****************************** REARS ******************************

STOCK: D21 2WD OEM


Monroe Monroe-Matic: #31000 - 12.000" compressed
Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37078 - 12.675" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/31000.jpg
2WD rear

My truck is 3" blocks in the back, 2-1/2" re-drill, with a 2" mini notch. I ran Monroe MA812 air shocks in the back for a while (12-3/4" compressed), but they were super mushy soft, didn't hold ANYTHING when fully pumped and the truck was loaded, and they felt like ~they~ are bottoming out, not the frame.

SHORTER: 2000 Nissan Quest


Monroe Monro-matic: #32207 - 11.25" compressed
Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37098 - 11.75" compressed


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/32207.jpg
Nissan Quest rear

The Monroe #37098 is a "truck" shock (5/8" shaft) from a 2000 Nissan Quest, and is 11-3/4" compressed. This should allow roughly 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" drop (leafs, not blocks, depending on what your stock shock length was), guesstimating based on shock mounting angle (I have not done the trig). The Quest appears to have a wishbone rear suspension, but the shocks are fairly close to the hub and should provide a decent ride.

The cheaper Monroe shock for the Quest is #32207 (1/2" shaft) which is 11-1/4" compressed. This should allow roughly 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" drop (leafs, not blocks). Probably softer than the shock above, and might be a good shot. Anyone want to try one? Edit: SlamdTaco tried them - glowing report! (http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showpost.php?p=142454&postcount=70)

There may be other shocks that can be modified to fit, but I don't know them. The ones listed here share the same ends as the Nissan Hardbody, and bolt right up.

****************************** EXPERIMENTATION ******************************

Static dropped my '94HB - 3" blocks in the rear and torsions in the front.

Nissan loves to give you not quite enough suspension travel - I installed Energy Suspension ultra-low-profile bump stops #9.9132 - these required re-drilling the mounting hole to 3/8". I used a taper bit and a 1/4" socket on an air ratchet just to get in there as I didn't want to yank the whole suspension just to drill a hole.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/hardbodybumpstop.jpg

These bump stops allowed the OEM shock body to bottom out about 3/4" before the suspension did. You want the control arm to hit the snubbers, NOT have the shocks take the beating. This is bad.

At level (lowered) ride height, I had about 1-1/16" travel between the control arm and the bump stop. This required at least 1.5" more travel at the shock to prevent shock bottoming. The Monroe Reflex 4WD D21 shock is the second shortest shock Monroe makes (8-1/8") - and it's not short enough. Chrysler Cordoba (or equivalent) shocks are the shortest shocks made (7-1/8"). This is good.

To install the Chrysler Cordoba shocks, you need to do the following:


Drill the hole below the OEM shock mount in the control arm to at least 1/2" (probably 9/16" or 5/8" would be better)
Splay the sides of the OEM mount apart to fit the stud-mount bushing and washer (I used a large crescent wrench - I like my modifications reversible) OR remove OEM mount from control arm (angle grinder or cut-off wheel)


The #31176 shock is significantly shorter than stock, and will not let the front wheels droop as much as before. This shouldn't be a problem, since you're sitting lower than before. You will need to raise the lower control arm with a jack to complete the shock installation.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/hardbodylower3.jpg

I installed a pair, and drove around a bit to see what it was like. Large violent bumps would still bottom the truck, but it seemed that it bottoms less than with the original bumpstops at original ride height (well, front fender edge 1" lower than rear fender edge as per FSM).

Incidentally, torsioned down this far does not place the lower control arm angle too badly - I've driven far worse (strut cars - eww).

Update 08/10/31:

I found the front bottomed out more than I wanted, so I raised the front up about 3/4". The fender edges are about equal in height, and the truck will still bottom on the most abusive of bumps (you could just slow down for bumps....). And of course, I want it lower.

I can't see running a longer shock than the Cordoba shock - there just isn't enough travel. I did not try Pinto shocks on a torsion-only drop.

Update 09/10/11:

After installing BellTech spindles, stock shocks and bumps, plus 3" blocks and a 2-1/2" re-drill, I had to unwind the torsion bars until the bumps were compressed 1/4" to level the truck. This made the ride very firm on bump, and floaty on rebound. After a summer of this, it became annoying. So I tried the Pinto shocks.

The Pinto shocks are super easy to install. I shortened the shock eye sleeve and re-drilled it 31/64 to fit the stock bolt (one could be hacksawed, the other was hardened and had to be cut off with a grinder). Another alternative is to pull out the sleeve (use a bit of WD40, a vice and some muscle) and press in the shock sleeve from the Nissan shock.

The ride quality is much better than before, however the tires rub the underside of the fender wells and fender edges at bump and body roll (running 215/55R16 on 7" Tundra steelies). Hitting some undulations on the highway at speed had the fenders hit the tires and you could feel it mess with the steering. Bad bad bad.

I had to shorten three fasteners sticking through the passenger fenderwell. as the threads were ripping tread off. A shorter tire would be a good idea.

Update 09/11/08:

One of the Pinto's blew out, and I found rubbing damage on the fender shields and paint worn off on the fenders (I have 4WD fenders).

I installed a set of Monroe Sensa-Trac 4WD Hardbody shocks. I also tried the ES bumpstop #9.9102 as I figured it would be almost the right length, and allow me to shim it up with some fender washers until I'm happy with the tire-to-fender clearance. This didn't work - my freshly-mounted studded winters cut the mother-loving HELL out of the fender-shields AND the steel. Bad bad bad. Factory bumpstops (trimmed 1/4" for now) went back in.

I will be trimming the factory bumpstop bit by bit until I find the happy place of trim vs. travel.

Update 10/08/02:

I never trimmed the bumpstops more - the more I thought about it, the less sense that made to me.

Instead, I cross-drilled the factory front bumpstops with three (or was it four?) 3/8" holes spaced evenly around (and through) the bumpstop. Removing some of the rubber this way "softens" the bumpstop.

http://gwellwood.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSC012761-480x360.jpg

Because the bumpstop is still full-length, you still hit them (or ride on them), but because they are softened, the ride is vastly improved and bottoming is much more progressive and easier to deal with.

I may drill another hole, or increase the drill bit and run them through again. I'm very happy with the ride as it is right now.

Update 10/10/08.

I installed the Nissan Quest Sensa-Trac rear shocks and tried them out. The Quest shocks are noticeably shorter, and they fit right in.

The ride is very good. The balance between the front Hardbody 4WD shocks and the rear Quest shocks is very nice.

****************************** SkinnyG's Best Bets for Static ******************************

1. Spindles, for sure - no question. Pinto shocks will give you about a 4" drop and ride BETTER than the factory (BUT expect full-bump rubbing - this could be dangerous). You could go lower if you're willing to slow down for things like traintracks, curbs and small children but you must run a shorter diameter tire. I'm currently sitting at 25-1/8" from ground to 4WD fender edge. With spindles, I would recommend cross-drilling the bumpstop and run 4WD shocks.

2. No Spindles? Pinto shocks are good, Cordoba shocks and ultra-low-profile bump stops would allow the shortest ride height, with the tires just skimming the inner fenders at full bump with stock tire diameter. Lower height = more bottoming.

3. Anything more than 4" drop will require cutting the inner fender wells, or much shorter tires if you expect it to ride without rubbing the underside of the fenderwells.

4. Blocks out back: stock shocks are fine, but if you've re-drilled, pulled a leaf and/or mini-notched the frame, run either of the Nissan Quest rear shocks above.

That's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

[Twisted Minis]

Bilstein makes an air ride shock that is 8.25" collapsed center to center, dual eye.

[sparkinframe]

how are the belltech 2" drop shocks?

when chosing shocks to mound in the stock location ypou want about 7 inch?

[lil_redd_again]

so wait, youre saying the 4wd sensa trac is the way to go or what?

[SkinnyG]

Updated the original post with Gabriel and KYB part numbers, and specs where I had them.

[VIPHB]

hey guys just wondering im going as far as i can go so im lookin about 50mm i got custom arms made an stuff just wondering if i run 70-80's Chrysler Behemoths
do i have mod my mount an with any of the other do i too just a quick question

[SkinnyG]

Edited the post for a bit more clarity regarding the Pinto shocks, and added pictures.

How are the belltech 2" drop shocks?
When choosing shocks to mount in the stock location you want about 7 inch?

You want a shock short enough that you get enough travel to rarely bottom out, but if you have to - bottom the bump stop, not the shock body. For me, a 7" shock works. For now. Spindles are on order. Never tried the BellTech shocks. If they are short and have some fairly firm valving, they could be awesome.

so wait, youre saying the 4wd sensa trac is the way to go or what?

I'm saying short shocks are the way to go. What.

hey guys just wondering im going as far as i can go so im lookin about 50mm i got custom arms made an stuff just wondering if i run 70-80's Chrysler Behemoths do i have mod my mount an with any of the other do i too just a quick question

Dude. Punctuation. Spell check. Something. Anything. My eyes....

[idrv2fst]

i was told that mid 80's izuzu pickup shocks are the way to go, nice and short and bolt right in.

[SkinnyG]

I looked that up for you. Here's what I found:

The 2WD Isuzu pickup uses the same shock as the 4WD Hardbody pickup, and the 4WD Isuzu pickup uses the same shock as the 2WD Hardbody shock. How very interesting....

[SkinnyG]

Updated with some thoughts about spindles, ride height and bumpstops.

[idrv2fst]

so i take it puttin em in wont drop me any further?? :(

[SkinnyG]

What have you done so far, and what are you wanting to achieve?

[purplenissan]

This is probably the last warm weekend of the year and I'm ready to replace my front shocks. I've got a set of Pinto's, but I haven't done the torsion drop yet because I don't have the money for the alignment. My old shocks are ...well, very old and needing replaced. I don't want to have 2 sets of ruined shocks. How bad would it be to run shorter shocks for a couple of weeks before shortening the rest of the suspension?

[SkinnyG]

It won't be a problem at all. There will be less droop travel - but you're not going over any WRC jumps are you?

Remove your factory bumpstop completely. The Pinto shock has a bumpstop built in.

I do my own alignment with two pieces of scrap metal plate, and two tape measures. I set mine at 1/8" toe-in. The camber will be out slightly with a 2" drop - but not enough to decimate your tires - my tires were positive camber to begin with, now they are slightly negative camber. You could drop it now, then save your pennies for an alignment in the spring. Half a turn on the adjusting sleeves was enough to correct my toe with a 2" torsion drop. I did not adjust camber.

[Al from Jerz]

this is a great thread with tons of potential. Subscribed for future use.

[low96hb]

Yes finally found the thread.......

[fakemike]

Yes finally found the thread.......


There is more good info in this tread, esp. if you are getting pinto shocks

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2658

[Motorhead]

looks like i'm going with d21 4wd shocks, i only want a 2- 21/2 inch drop. what about the back?

[1lomofo]

How come nobody ever mentions the Toxic shocks i see in mini truckin for lowered trucks?? they suck or somethin??

[SkinnyG]

looks like i'm going with d21 4wd shocks, i only want a 2- 21/2 inch drop. what about the back?

If you use blocks, you don't have to change a thing. I haven't dug through the Monroe dimensions yet for the rear.

[fakemike]

I just got some pinto shocks and I wanted to make sure I put them together right. Of course they did not come with any instructions. Does this look right? Thanks

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/4235/hpim0422.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3959/hpim0421m.jpg

[jimmy726]

o cant tell but its usually the bigger hat and bushing on the bottom

[fakemike]

Both the hats and bushings appear to be the same size. One hat has a 1 stamped on it and one has a 4. I guess I'll put the 1 on top and 4 on the buttom.

[jday228]

Has anyone found any shocks shorter than 7"?

[SkinnyG]

There is nothing shorter off-the-shelf.

[POLYNISSAN]

Hey skin or n-e1, wat shocks do i have to use for the back, i got static drop allround, n it rides like shit, i kno da front pintos, but i need da back. THANX

[DHPmike]

73-87 gm fullsize half ton front shocks are what we used to use on almost all dropped minis. they can be tilted at a steel angle if needed and the mounts are generic.

[SkinnyG]

I just installed Pinto shocks this weekend, and updated the main post accordingly.

With spindles, and stock diameter tires, Pinto shocks are enough. You can't go lower without cutting the inner fenders or running shorter tires. 4WD shocks would be unnecessarily shorter.

I'm running Monroe MA820 air shocks in back, with 3" blocks, 2-1/2" re-drill and no bumpstops. I haven't had any problems ~yet~ with the full-length shocks out back, so I haven't studied it yet. The air shocks can really increase ride height unloaded, but don't add much when fully loaded.

[SkinnyG]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC00463.jpg

Left to right: Cordoba, Pinto and 2WD Hardbody

[Slay0r]

i have pinto shocks laying around from my old hardbody i was going to install them in my old hardbody, but now i have a different one (static'd) in my garage ;)

2 things i would to know is:

1) is there a trick to get the stock shock off (the upper portion of the shock rotates with the nut at the top, and i cant get a good enough hold)

2) what size do i have to drill out of the pinto shock so that the OEM bolt will fit through the bushing at the bottom

[DAZE752]

on top of the shock it is flat so you can use an wrench to hold the top and another to loosen the nut

[fakemike]

1) Do you see how the area at the very top is kind of flat and not threaded. Use a vice grip or wrench
on the area to stop it from rotating.

2) I reused the Nissan sleeve in the pinto shock. With this method you have to push out both sleeves and push the Nissan one in the Pinto bushing which can be a PITA. I'm not sure what size drill bit but just put it next to the bolt and see what works.

Here is a pic of inserting the nissan sleeve in the pinto bushing and shock. I had to hammer it in.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4707/hpim0433u.jpg

More good info in this thread (if you haven't seen it):
http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2658&page=6&highlight=pinto

[Slay0r]

thx for the help guys,...this will be sumthing i can tackle this weekend ;)

[SkinnyG]

Pintos
Spindles
Tundra Steelies
215/55R16 tires

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC03522.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC03523.jpg

And one blown Pinto shock. I mean, like, B L O W N. Not sure how it happened.

SO.......

Back in with the factory bumpstops for now (shaved 1/4" off the tip just for a bit of clearance, will likely trim a bit more), and a brand new set of Monroe Sensa-Trac 4WD Hardbody shocks #37047. (Tried some low profile bumpstops (#9.9102) plus shims, but my studded winters scratched the HELL out of the fenders today on the way to work. No good.).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC03521.jpg
Top to bottom: Cordoba - Pinto - 4WD Hardbody - 2WD Hardbody

[joker]

is anyone running s10 shocks? and how are they working out?

[SkinnyG]

I've not run them on my truck. S10 shocks are 8.625" compressed, and need the cross bar pressed out of the lower bushing and the Nissan sleeve pressed in. No dust shield on the S10 shock either.

I don't see an advantage over the D21 4X4 shock here.

[switched]

pics of your truck with these drops setups might help

[SkinnyG]

Mine?

Why?

The height doesn't change - the shocks don't hold up the truck at all. I'm trying to find happiness in ride at the height I want.

What I want, is a relatively comfortable bottoming (not hammering) on the snubbers. If all you want is the lowest of the low, the truck will ride like crap and which shocks you chose really won't matter.

Nevertheless:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/hardbodylower11.jpg
Torsioned, Cordoba shocks, 3" blocks and 2-1/2" redrill

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC03526.jpg
BellTech spindles, 4x4 shocks, 3" blocks and 2-1/2" redrill

This was the same height for the Cordoba shocks, the Pinto shocks, the 2wd shocks and the 4wd shocks. With and without spindles.

[jcjcsoccerkid]

off topic but skinnyg your truck is badass man. i love the look of it. the camper shell, mudflaps, tundra wheels, good work.

[joker]

the s10 shock is shorter than the 4wd shock.

[SkinnyG]

D21 4WD Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37047 - 8.125" compressed

[joker]

s10 shocks is shorter, they doesnt need a dust boot because shocks are designed to leak some oil so that the seal is lubricated, and i had them in my sonoma out front...they are the perfect solution.

[SkinnyG]

D21 4WD Monroe Monro-Matic: #32206 - 8.375" compressed, 12.5" extended.
D21 4WD Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37047 - 8.125" compressed, 12.125" extended.

D21 2WD Monroe Monro-Matic: #32113 - 8.875" compressed
D21 2WD Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37077 - 8.875" compressed

S10 2WD Monroe-Matic #32132 - 8.625" compressed, 13.375" extended.
S10 2WD Monroe Sensa-Trac: #37019 - 8.875" compressed, 13.25" extended.

So you're saying you had S10 shocks in your Sonoma (S10) and they worked perfectly?

[joker]

yea i had them in my sonoma, barely drove the truck after i put them in so practically brand new. i just changed the bushing and sleeve. s10 shocks have a bar that runs through them because they are held in with 2 small bolts to the lower control arm.

its great that you have the lengths and all but i compared the 4wd shocks to the s10 shocks at work, s10 shocks are shorter. i was thinkin bout gettin 4wd shocks until i compared them with the s10 shocks.

[SkinnyG]

If the shocks are from a different manufacturer, I may not have access to the dimensions. I have an S10 shocks here from another project, and it is taller than the 4WD shock. Both are Monroe, though.

Hey, if they work - smoke 'em if you got 'em!

[joker]

mine are monroe.

[switched]

so if a truck was just dropped with blocks in the rear now. I could get the pinto shocks switch to a smaller bumpstop crank torsions all the way down, and do a re drill and go even lower? right?

[L-Rolla]

yea but if u redrill the hangars your gonna need pintos or some other small shock in the front AND back, i cut the bumpstops in the front off

[switched]

advance doesnt sell a 32118 monroe and napa would have to order them. is there no shock that the stores keep in stock for a pinto?

[$krap_IN_flesh]

more than likely not your are dealing with a 20+ old vehicle that doesn't really exist anymore. when was the last time you seen one rolling down the road. not on fire haha

[switched]

haha. well according to this thread the 4wd shocks are shorter so wouldnt that be more ideal? because i believe advance kept those in stock. then i can just trim the stock bump stop till its a inch or so from hitting?

[SkinnyG]

That's what I'm doing so far - 4WD shocks - absolutely no modification required.

Though, I'm going to try drilling holes in the rubber bump stop to "soften" its bottoming - make its stop a bit less abrupt. I've done this on other cars with great success.

[jacob711]

so what about the rear?

i need some about 2" shorter than stock

how much shorter are 4wd rears

[SkinnyG]

Rears:

2WD Monroe 37078 - 12.625" compressed
2WD Monroe 31000 - 12" compressed

4WD Monroe 37073 - 13" compressed
4WD Monroe 31000 - 12" compressed (same shock as 2WD)

Keep in mind the mounting angle of the rear shock will not require as short a shock as the drop you give it. If the shock mounts 45° (I have not measured this, I'm just using a number), it only needs to be 1" shorter on a 2" drop because of the angle.

I'm running Monroe MA812 air shocks in back (2-1/2" redrill and 3" blocks, no bumpstops) and things seem to be ok (13.5" compressed).

[jamesnmandy]

advance doesnt sell a 32118 monroe and napa would have to order them. is there no shock that the stores keep in stock for a pinto?


rockauto.com

i just received brand new pinto shocks, put them on last night, the Monroe 32118's (lookup 1976 Ford Pinto front shocks) and the Monroe 31000's (d21 stock rear shocks), for a whopping $11 each on the fronts and i think $15 each for the rears

i actually work at Advance Auto, tried pricing them there, they only carry KYB's and they are order only at $40 each......then i found the Monroes at rockauto for $11 each and ordered them

also picked up beck/arnley front rotors for $12 each, wheels bearings and inner seals for almost nothing, front actual OE pads for like $8 for the set, rear shoes same OE stuff for like $12, new front grille for $11 (that was $100 at Advance by itself)........long story short, even with shipping calculated in i saved a couple hundred bucks at least by ordering from rockauto than buying from Advance and i get a 20% discount for working there...LOL

[JUS*SLAMM*UM*808]

What do you folks think of toxic shockz??? jus bought a pair for my rear. paid 84 bucks for them... are they worth the cash??? any info or experiences is appreciated! thanks

[LIVIN'LOUD]

My truck has 4" blocks in the rear, what shocks should i run in the rear? It has a 3/4 drop... has factory stock shocks all the way around, and 3 are blown! Im thinking of putting pintos on the front, but what about the rear? I wanna keep the stock perchs and dont want shocks that will bottom out or over extend. Thanks in advance.

[SkinnyG]

You will notice with the blocks, that the actual ~shock~mount~location~ has not moved. Stock length is fine.

[LIVIN'LOUD]

So even tho it has 4" blocks in the rear putting stock shock lengths back on it wont cause them to blow like they did will these that came on it? Because they are stock length and are gone! But they look OLD and might be factory.

[SkinnyG]

The actual ~shock~mount~location~ has not moved.

[LIVIN'LOUD]

Ok, what brand would you recommend?

[fakemike]

So even tho it has 4" blocks in the rear putting stock shock lengths back on it wont cause them to blow like they did will these that came on it? Because they are stock length and are gone! But they look OLD and might be factory.


^^If the shocks are around 15 years old, its not the blocks that caused them to blow. Blocks don't change the stroke length of the rear shocks. Take a look at your rear axle, the shock mounting location does not move.

You can get something like Monroes from you local auto parts store for about $15 each. Or get Toxic Drop shocks for about $35 each. Monroes work fine for me.

[LIVIN'LOUD]

^^If the shocks are around 15 years old, its not the blocks that caused them to blow. Blocks don't change the stroke length of the rear shocks. Take a look at your rear axle, the shock mounting location does not move.

You can get something like Monroes from you local auto parts store for about $15 each. Or get Toxic Drop shocks for about $35 each. Monroes work fine for me.
Thanks guys

[KENDIG]

which shocks would you recommend for the rear being dropped with bell tech 3" drop leafs?

[jamesnmandy]

if it was me i would just go to the auto parts store, have them pull a stock rear shock, and then have them find one that has the same eyelet sizes but with a 3" shorter compressed length but the same or close uncompressed length

or even just have them pull a 4x4 rear shock and see if it's not shorter, i cant remember if it was front or back but someone measured and found the 4x4 shocks to be shorter than 2wd

[slamdtaco]

thgouth I'd add to this after buying the wrong size for my mazda.
I'm getting Doetsch Tech Nitro Slammer shocks.
They are made for lowered trucks and aren't as stiff as toxic shocks.

Part 4028G for the front 7.40" collapsed and 10.90" extended
Part 4095G for the rear 11.35" collapsed and 18.25 extended

I only found 2 places to get them and after shipping they are only about $0.50 difference in price. One is Cando Specialties and the other is Illusive Design & Fabrication. I went with Illusive because he's a member on quite a few forums.

http://www.candospecialties.com/
www.illusivefabrications.com

[fakemike]

^^ let us know how they work out.

[slamdtaco]

got the new doetsch tech shocks today and got them put on. they are stiffer than the monroes (obviously) but they are the perfect length as I no longer bottom them out. thanks to Brian at Illusive for the great service and turn around time.

[slamdtaco]

in the early 90s I had this truck with drop spindles, turned torsions, removed bump stops and it had tokico shocks on it and it rode as smooth as a cadillac. I have no idea what part number they would be but would highly suggest researching it.

http://www.streetsource.com/uploads/Ownerprofiles/SLAMDTACO/7202006101928PM63931.jpg

[slamdtaco]

the doetsch tech were too stiff for the rear so I did some more research and found the perfect rear shock if you are real low. I just boght it and put it on and it's the ride I was looking for.

monroe 32207 11.25" compressed 17.875" extended

I started with the 31094 listed at 12" and 19" but actually bottoms out at 14"
then I bought the doetsch techs listed above, but were too stiff
and now have the 32207 and it's perfect

hope this saves someone the trouble of buying 3 different sets of shocks
luckily I can take the first monroes back for a refund

[tobysan90]

i know im a little late on the thread but i found some rears for a 1975-1983 honda civic wagon Gabriel part#69884 ext. is 16.73 collapsed is 10.62 with a stroke of 6.11 hope that helps i got some on order to try out

[jamesnmandy]

i know im a little late on the thread but i found some rears for a 1975-1983 honda civic wagon Gabriel part#69884 ext. is 16.73 collapsed is 10.62 with a stroke of 6.11 hope that helps i got some on order to try out


thanks for the info, if/when i notch and what not i might try them :)

[BoostCreepr]

so when dropping the rear with blocks your going to need a longer shock to drop 3" with the mounting plate correct? Im seeing people say to get shorter shocks for the rear when you drop it but since the shock top mounts to the frame and the bottom one goes inder the blocks it would have to be longer correct? If so what is recommended for a rear shock with a 3" block drop?

[KENDIG]

so when dropping the rear with blocks your going to need a longer shock to drop 3" with the mounting plate correct? Im seeing people say to get shorter shocks for the rear when you drop it but since the shock top mounts to the frame and the bottom one goes inder the blocks it would have to be longer correct? If so what is recommended for a rear shock with a 3" block drop?

stock shocks will work when dropping with blocks. the length didnt change you just moved the axle up 3 inches.

[BoostCreepr]

stock shocks will work when dropping with blocks. the length didnt change you just moved the axle up 3 inches.


wow that makes alot of sense! lol

[95_NISMO_HB]

It is important to note that the shock plate should be supported by something sturdy... cause when those Ubolts let go... brother that leafspring sure can move!!! Broke my fingers this past weekend... but I got back out and finished after my ER trip... the truck looks sweet.

[95_NISMO_HB]

SkinnyG - how'd the drilling holes work out? With my 4in blocks in back the stops are pretty much resting on the axle... I don't want to loose them completely but it is riding pretty rough right now.

That's what I'm doing so far - 4WD shocks - absolutely no modification required.

Though, I'm going to try drilling holes in the rubber bump stop to "soften" its bottoming - make its stop a bit less abrupt. I've done this on other cars with great success.

[NoSoHardbody]

K so I got a 3in blocks redrilled and pulled mid... if I notch it would a 10in collaps toxic B good enuff?? Thanks

[SkinnyG]

SkinnyG - how'd the drilling holes work out? With my 4in blocks in back the stops are pretty much resting on the axle

The bumpstops? Mine are gone. The bolts broke off when I tried to unbolt them, so I just left it. I have maybe 2" clearance to the frame. I plan on mini-notching the frame this summer.

2011 Edit: Here's the thread - Mini-Notching Made Easy (http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11268)

[DavidL25]

Ok nobody has brought this up yet. I have 3.5" droped lower control arms would the pinto shocks work for me.

[SkinnyG]

They'd work, but you won't need them. The tires will hit the underside of the fenders before the shock bottoms out. 3.5" dropped? That's mad!

[SkinnyG]

UPDATE: Up front I am still running BellTech spindles, and 4WD Hardbody shocks. I took the stock front bumpstops and cross drilled four 3/8" holes through the rubber kind of evenly spaced around the rubber. The holes "soften" the bumpstop.

The bumpstops are (close to) full-length so I still hit them, however, because they are softened by cross drilling them, they hit more progressively and improve the ride significantly.

[pinina]

ok, i have a minor drop 2 -3 inches in the front. should i go with the pintos or the 4wd hardbody shock?

[SkinnyG]

If you are just torsioned with no spindles, go with the Pintos.

[pinina]

ok. thanks!

[93hb2nv]

So I jus got 4wd shocks for the front & rear today I get em home & the shick bolt that came with my relocater kit is too big 4 the eyelet can I jus run a grade 8 bolt through the lca

[DavidL25]

thats what i did with mine. worked just fine

[DavidL25]

Thanks skinnyg. With my dropped lca's and the bars cranked alittle im at about 5.5" drop. Im still able to run the stock shocks with no problems.

[No.7]

I bought the napa response pinto shocks and peeled the napa sticker back and it said monroe right on the box. Im not sure if it is this way for all of them but I thought i would share.

[adcas_28]

what about the rear shock absorbers? what fits? thanks

[DylanTN]

hey guys sorry if this has been answered already (i'm too lazy to read all the responses) but I have a 93 hardbody that i'm starting to work on and I just found a full drop kit including spindles and blocks for the rear could anyone recomend some shocks that will be good to use in conjunction? (kit is a 3"-4" drop) thanks for the help guys btw I also have some videos up on youtube if you want to check them out its -dylanmeurs- thanks for the help

[SkinnyG]

Okay, I did some looking into this.

My truck is 3" blocks in the back, with a 2" mini notch. I've been running Monroe MA812 air shocks in the back (12-3/4" compressed), and I think ~they~ are bottoming out, not the frame. I may need some shorter shocks out back. Here's what I have come up with so far:

(This is all theoretical)

I think I would try a Monroe #37098 in the back, it's a truck shock (5/8" shaft) from a 2000 Nissan Quest, and is 11-3/4" compressed. This should allow roughly 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" drop (leafs, not blocks) - guessing based on shock mounting angle - I have not done the trig.

The cheaper Monroe shock for the Quest is #32207 (1/2" shaft) which is 11-1/4" compressed. This should allow roughly 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" drop (leafs, not blocks).

Theoretically.

There may be other shocks that can be modified to fit, but I don't know them. The ones listed here share the same ends as the Nissan Hardbody.

Stock Hardbody rear lengths are 12.5" (Monroe #37078) or 12" (Monroe 31000).

I added this material to the first post.

[SkinnyG]

I thought I felt and heard the rear shocks bottoming. I had been running Monroe MaxAir air shocks. These are marginally useless. Great height adjustability only when not carrying anything. Fully loaded these shocks lift an inch or less. They are fairly long, too, so if you're re-drilled, notched and especially running de-arced springs, you're going to run out of shock travel.

Previously I looked into 2000 Nissan Quest rear shocks, so I bought a pair of the more expensive ones (and they are more expensive than I expected) and tried them out. The Quest shocks are noticeably shorter, and they fit right in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Hardbody/DSC00865.jpg
Top to bottom: Stock 2WD Hardbody, 4WD Hardbody air shock, Nissan Quest shock

The air shocks are supposed to have about 5-10psi at all times so the shock "bag(?)" doesn't get wrecked. Swapping in the Quest shocks dropped the back about half an inch to an inch (the air shocks were lifting slightly). The ride is very good. The balance between the front Hardbody 4WD shocks and the rear Quest shocks is very nice. The air shocks were SUPER soft and floaty (barf!).

With the slightly lower ride height (because of removing the air shocks) the bottoming noise was made worse - turned out it was the exhaust hangar hitting the nose of the differential, and a bent left-rear frame horn. I'll fix that next week.

[rvargas94]

Okay I read everybody's response and I'm freaking lost haha umm I droped my 87 hardbody with 3in blocks in the back and tortion bars in front and I like the heaight I don't don't want. All bouncy y'all suggest any good shocks or anything I can do?

[MurderedOutHardBody]

well the pinto shocks seem to be the way to go from what i hear depending on how low u are. ive recently lifted mine back a little and put the 4wd hb shocks on based on what ive talked to skinnyg about and they work great, they are a little shorter then the 2wd hb shocks. i think most of the people who are really low are doing pintos.

[rvargas94]

So the pintos in the front and that would work? I didn't v
Cut the bump stop should I removes sisncr I've been seeing the pintos have it?

[jamesnmandy]

Okay I read everybody's response and I'm freaking lost haha umm I droped my 87 hardbody with 3in blocks in the back and tortion bars in front and I like the heaight I don't don't want. All bouncy y'all suggest any good shocks or anything I can do?

unbolting the bump stops and installing the pinto shocks will make it stop bottoming out and will make the front end as smooth as stock....almost cadillac smooth and floaty....

[JunYa]

I Just removed my bumpstops lowered the tbars as far as i could go put the pinto shocks on it and it likes really good!

[rvargas94]

Thanks alot I been bouncy every where hahaha ..

[jamesnmandy]

I Just removed my bumpstops lowered the tbars as far as i could go put the pinto shocks on it and it likes really good!

if you do this, as i tried it myself (letting the torsion bars all the way out), you will actually bottom out the Pinto shocks, so then the entire weight of the front of the truck is resting on the shock mounts. They were not made to support the front of the whole truck, only the sprung weight of one spindle. So for one its a safety thing.

Also, with 14" wheels and 185/60R14 tires the cross member of the frame under the front between the lower control arms hits the pavement by the time the shocks are bottomed out i only have maybe 3/4" clearance, which is nothing, i limped it down my street and back and it pounded pavement several times....not good

of course with larger diameter wheels and tires you wont bottom out the frame but you will bottom out the shocks and at that point it will ride like crap again just like when riding on the bumpstops

with my setup i had to turn the torsion bar nuts in until i had a good 1 1/4" threads showing beyond the nuts. This gives me about 1.5" travel in the Pinto shocks and is smooth riding unless i really hit a large hole or a sudden ramp too fast

[balln]

I have a 88 hardbody with a 97 motor swap (if that matters on weight)? I am currently at stock susp. and want to slam it as far as i can go. I have the Titan 5 spokes with 225x40x18 tires and my drop will consist of the DJM 3" drop lower control arms. I want the truck to pretty much sit on the tire fender line (no gap). What shocks should i use? Should i still use the pinto shock with the built in bump stop even tho im running the control arms and not spindals? Im not sure how im going to do the back but im leaning towards pulling some leafs becuase the ass end of my truck rides like a fucking brick. Any help would be awsome.


Thanks Guys
Ryan

[SkinnyG]

Stock shocks and bumps stops would probably work fine for you. Try it. If it doesn't work, make changes as needed.

[balln]

Ok but they should still work even if i have to crank the torsion bars a bit? And what about the rear to soften it up?
Thanks

[SkinnyG]

3" is a pretty significant drop. The factory length shocks and bumpstops should easily handle 1". More than that, and it's really going to ride like crap, and the tires hitting the inner fenders if you give it more travel with short shocks & bumpstops - that kind of thing is dangerous.

Try it with what you have first. That's the cheapest solution. If it's not low enough, and you can put up with the ride, try lower.

I'm not a big fan of pulling leafs, and cannot speak to that. I will be installing 4WD leafs shortly - they are lower and stiffer.

Edit: Did not install 4WD leafs - they did not work. Axle is pinned in the wrong place, driveshaft too long, shackles too horizontal, just didn't work

[balln]

Ok Thanks man!!!! ill give it a try

[rvargas94]

okay should i go with pintos or 4wd im riding on 16 in tires and to the frame im 8 or 9 in off the floor and to the body im about a foot ,, which do you reconmend i got 3 in blocks in the back ,, and let the torition bars almosst all the way loose there about a 1 quater of an in left ?

[Jesse87Hardbody]

I need some new shocks for 87 hardbody . any help on what would be best ones? already have toxic shocks now and they bottom out rarely but enought to piss me off lol

[vb2ner]

Well, let me refresh this thread with a quick question...

Cranked torsions, and eskies.....will the pintos work well, or will I need to roll the fenders as I am thinking the pintos will travel more and cause fitment problems. Just hoping someone has a similar setup with eskies and can help me decide

[slammed808]

Well, let me refresh this thread with a quick question...

Cranked torsions, and eskies.....will the pintos work well, or will I need to roll the fenders as I am thinking the pintos will travel more and cause fitment problems. Just hoping someone has a similar setup with eskies and can help me decide

You should clear those eskies with no probs.. they tuck nice and easy without any mods.

[vb2ner]

Awesome. Pintos ordered, thanks

[skateboardpunk9000]

will these work for the d22. everything looks the same just wanted to know if anyone has maybe tried them out

[Ratrod25]

might have missed it but will pinto's work with a 720???


Edit: Will work on a 720...

[hardbodylwb]

I don't know if these have been mentioned but these are the "shortest" front shocks I've found.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G7721

[rob_fed]

I just got these Summit Racing G7721 shocks. These are rebranded Doetsch shocks. They are even black, just like the originals, except the prices is much better. In my lowered minivan, I had Doetsch in the back, but they were too stiff, but I had made front mounts to add more dampening to the front struts and they were fine. I believe that these shocks need some weight and a small amount of travel to really utilize the valving. If you are using blocks, the travel is very close to stock, so that is why some feel they are stiff. I report in couple of week when I drop my daughter's '95 XE, I am in the process in gathering more parts.

In case you don't think I have a lowered minivan, not Nissan, you can see it here. I spent a lot of time dialing in the ride height, springs, struts, and shocks.

http://www.kia-forums.com/gallery/index.php?n=196

[jcjcsoccerkid]

i put those quest rear shocks on the rear of my fronty about a week ago and they're handling very well...

4" block, redrill, removed middle leaf, removed bumpstops, notched

[SkinnyG]

I've had the Quest Monroe Sensa-Tracs in the back since October (4wd Sensa-Tracs up front), I'm really happy with the ride and balance.

I need more load carrying capacity though...

[jcjcsoccerkid]

yea i saw somewhere up there where you said you weren't sure about those with a big drop...but i needed some so bad and just said fuck it and took a chance. i love them

[sm85]

I have some Beltech nitro drop shocks still in the box. Will take measurements collapsed and expanded, and get pics before installing.

[lower byhalia]

If not already mentioned, I found NAPA best for honoring warranty on "their" short shocks.

[CrazyHawAiian]

Because my D21 is a daily driver, I chose the best shock/suspension components for me from the info from this forum. Please Let me know if this should be a good ride combo. Front- 2" drop spindles with HB 4WD shocks and stock torsion bar lengths. Rear- 3" blocks with Nissan quest shocks

[jcjcsoccerkid]

yep, that will work just fine

[SkinnyG]

If you only plan on doing spindles, you don't need shorter front shocks at all. the 4WD shocks allow you to unwind the front even more, should you wish to go lower.

Quest shocks are good in the rear for you, because it allows you to go lower later without having to buy new shocks again. If you are JUST using blocks, you can keep the shocks you have now - blocks do NOT change the shock mount locations at all.

[bagged_Ese]

what shock set up should one run for a bagged truck.. so far from all the reading i think 4wd shocks would be my best bet??

[SkinnyG]

This can't be answered specifically. If it were me, I would look for a shock that still has a tick of room when you're laid out (so the truck is not ~resting~ on the shock), and long enough to limit droop to the bag doesn't get over-extended. Then just fabricate mounts to suit.

I'd probably see if I could fab some brackets to use the stock shocks - that way I don't have to try and remember what shocks I put in there when they need replacing.

[JOHN92]

I just had my front done and I'm running stock 2wd shocks. They were setup with the shock compressed almost completely for layed out and they have a decent amount of travel for lift. I asked about this before getting shocks and I think the 4wd were shorter but you don't need them shorter for bagging. I would think you would want the most travel possible.

[MikeSki]

I have read every single page and think I understand what I need to do.


Here is what I have so far, three inch blocks in the rear and cranked the torsion bars. The stance is perfect for me except I am on my front bump stops and the truck is bouncey at highway speeds, not bone jarring but floating like. If i cut or remove the bumpstops and use four wheel drive shocks will this fix the problem?

Thanks

[JOHN92]

Or mod up some pinto shocks depending on how far you are torsion dropped.

I have read every single page and think I understand what I need to do.


Here is what I have so far, three inch blocks in the rear and cranked the torsion bars. The stance is perfect for me except I am on my front bump stops and the truck is bouncey at highway speeds, not bone jarring but floating like. If i cut or remove the bumpstops and use four wheel drive shocks will this fix the problem?

Thanks

[SkinnyG]

Cheapest is cut the factory bumpstop.

The Energy Suspension Ultra Low Profile bumpstops are 3/8" tall, and $9/pr. If you can cut your OEM bumpstops close to that, that would cost even less and ride pretty good. The factory bump has a metal "cup" to it - I'd want at least half that in rubber sticking out of the metal cup, probably more.

You could also swiss-cheese the bumpstop so that it is softer - this will improve the ride and allow a much more gradual (and pleasant?) bottoming.

If you need shocks anyway, buy some Pintos (like John92 mentions) and ditch the factory bumpstop.

[MikeSki]

Before and after measurements equal a 2 1/2 inch drop, ride isn't bad just when I peeked up under the truck I noticed it on the bump stops up front. I guess I'll just start with shorter bump stops for now. I am really glad it don't beat me to death.

Thanks ya'll

[MikeSki]

Got the pinto shocks on and think I screwed up somewhere tire rubbing fender liner on one side. I'm guessing I damaged a shock somehow during modification or install. Will try a new one tomorrow.

[1_low_fronty]

installed these pinto shocks
Gabriel Guardian: #82128 - 8.19" compressed

and these quest shocks
Monroe Monro-matic: #32207 - 11.25" compressed
on the pintos i just removed the sleeve completly and installed them. overall ride ride is much better now. smoother and stiffer in the back than airshocks. i used the brand classic which is made by gabriel but had the same specs.the only problem i had with the pintos is that when i took the bumpstops out, my truck scrapes alot more. so i might put them back on and grind them down a little more

[Slo Krt]

Got the pinto shocks on and think I screwed up somewhere tire rubbing fender liner on one side. I'm guessing I damaged a shock somehow during modification or install. Will try a new one tomorrow.


I dont think the problem was with your shock, your torsion bar was probably cranked down enough that you were riding on your bump stops (and the shock was probably fully compressed thus keeping the truck from going any lower.

In short, check your torsion bar adjustment, you might need to just tighten it back up and raise it to the correct height.

[MikeSki]

I dont think the problem was with your shock, your torsion bar was probably cranked down enough that you were riding on your bump stops (and the shock was probably fully compressed thus keeping the truck from going any lower.

In short, check your torsion bar adjustment, you might need to just tighten it back up and raise it to the correct height.

Yes, it was. At least I know these trucks have no limit on dropping. The camber was crazy too. Got it adjusted pretty good right right now. Probably do spindles in a couple ofmonths.

[TrqMnstr]

I'm in need of suggestions, I'm torsioned in the front with 3" blocks out back. Currently I'm running stock height Bilstein shocks front and rear. I use my truck bed quite often to carry stuff, would stock length air shocks suffice to use in the rear??

[SkinnyG]

Monroe MA812 air shocks might, however (in my experience with them) they will only raise the back about 1" max when the truck is fully loaded (~1450lbs). Empty, they will raise the rear quite a bit.

The MA812 is for the 4WD - it is slightly longer than the 2WD shock, but I did not have any clearance problems with them.

[TrqMnstr]

Monroe MA812 air shocks might, however (in my experience with them) they will only raise the back about 1" max when the truck is fully loaded (~1450lbs). Empty, they will raise the rear quite a bit.

That's fine, I'm really just looking to aid in not bottoming out allot when loaded. But then again couldn't I just use helper bags?? thanks for the part number Skinny:thumb:

[TrqMnstr]

Hey skinny, so I was doing brakes on a Caravan at work and I noticed the rear shocks while the van was in the air was roughly 14.5" extended seem pretty short to me

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g154/coiloverkid/IMG_20111220_101055.jpg

[SkinnyG]

There are shorter shocks out there than the Quest shocks for the rear - but the Quest shocks have the same Eyes as the Hardbody - means they bolt right in (unlike the Pinto shocks for the front, which needs to be modified).

Modifying a different shock (like the Caravan) to fit isn't that hard, I just wanted to find something that was "bolt-in."

I think helper bags are the best bet - I haven't seriously pursued it yet.

Quick Google: 1969-1996 Nissan 2WD Pickup - Firestone "Ride-Rite" Air Bag Helper Springs (NO-DRILL) [REAR] (http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4584)

[TrqMnstr]

No mods needed. Eyelets top and bottom. It's a 2008 C-van

[SkinnyG]

Okay,

According to Monroe, Hardbody shocks use an L1 eye with a bushing 5/8" ID, 1-15/16" width, no sleeve.

2008 Caravan uses am LS28 eye, 12mm ID, 1-5/8" width, steel sleeve. 10.49" compressed length.

Could it be made to work? Probably. Will it bolt right up? No. I'd bet, however, that once the sleeve is pressed out, the remaining hole would probably be 5/8".

Anyone want to try it?

[TrqMnstr]

.......Will it bolt right up? No. I'd bet, however, that once the sleeve is pressed out, the remaining hole would probably be 5/8".

Anyone want to try it?

I will. Let me get a used shock from someone in the shop and I'll guinea pig my truck:thumb:

[Crayon]

I have 3 in' blocks in the rear I will redrill the hangers soon . I haul a ATV and jetski around what's the best shocks I could use out back ? Quest or air shocks ? Lmk guys just bought front pinto and waiting for them to come in .

[Crayon]

Also I'm on 16' tacoma stocks with 255/50 tire with the bed rolled so it doesn't rub

[D21_Drake]

in the early 90s I had this truck with drop spindles, turned torsions, removed bump stops and it had tokico shocks on it and it rode as smooth as a cadillac. I have no idea what part number they would be but would highly suggest researching it.

http://www.streetsource.com/uploads/Ownerprofiles/SLAMDTACO/7202006101928PM63931.jpg

What did you do to the rear of truck to get it to sit so nicely?

[outlaw]

I was gonna get the quest shocks today but my friend told me about the shocks for 1950 plymouth delux. Its a monroe sensa trac shock #5257. It measures just over 8 inches collapsed for the rear. I will be using these for the rears because he relocated the top shock mounts when he did the mini notch and the quest would only give me 3/4 of an inch more travel than the stock shocks i have in there now.

[SkinnyG]

Updated with a lame pic of my cross-drilled bumpstop.

[drifters34]

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=1158&pictureid=10923

hi guys really new here but i read this thread and did the shocks... dang hella a lot difference in the hb of mine and i love the ride thank you guys and this site is the best...

[harper]

For the rear, for people using lowering blocks:

has anyone thought about using load leveler/load adjuster shocks? They increase load hauling ability by up to 1100 lbs, according to their site, and IMO would be better than air shocks since they're a shock + a spring.

I've seen them on monroe's site, but idk if they bolt up to hardbody/frontier?